Author Topic: Top ropable 5.4-5.6 in Franconia-Crawford Notch.  (Read 502 times)

Offline mitchy

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Top ropable 5.4-5.6 in Franconia-Crawford Notch.
« on: June 22, 2018, 10:18:28 am »
Hi, Iím looking for some easy top rope climbs for my wife. I was wondering about The artist bluff, and little Mona Lisa. How busy does that climb get? I will like be up next Friday. I donít want to hog a route if there are others that a little less frequented, and less crowded. I do own a copy of Jon Sykes Notches guide. Multi pitch is out of the question for her. Thank you.
-Mitchy
         

Offline NEAlpineStart

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Re: Top ropable 5.4-5.6 in Franconia-Crawford Notch.
« Reply #1 on: June 22, 2018, 08:14:08 pm »
A couple nice 5.5-5.6 climbs at Echo but you must lead to set it up. Iím not that familiar with Artists Bluff. Definitely some 5.4 options at Rumney (week with Pete) and Elepants Head (5.4 The Trunk) and Square sledge in Pinkham (leading helpful)

Offline mitchy

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Re: Top ropable 5.4-5.6 in Franconia-Crawford Notch.
« Reply #2 on: June 23, 2018, 07:17:42 am »
Thank you, NEAplineStart. I don't mind leading any of the routes you mentioned. Have a great day.

Offline tblackadarftw

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Re: Top ropable 5.4-5.6 in Franconia-Crawford Notch.
« Reply #3 on: June 23, 2018, 02:20:24 pm »
Little Mona Lisa would be a great option. The anchor is easy to access and the face offers several variations. In my experience Iíve never had to wait to hang a rope on this. Have fun!


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Offline xcrag_corex

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Re: Top ropable 5.4-5.6 in Franconia-Crawford Notch.
« Reply #4 on: June 23, 2018, 11:52:58 pm »
The Buffalo Corral at Rumney. Lots of good mellow routes. Not too long and fixed anchors to set up. Easiest to lead but might be able to sneak up the side and set up a tr  without too much hassle
-Jeremy Ballou

"know how to rock, ain't afraid to roll"

Offline NEAlpineStart

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Re: Top ropable 5.4-5.6 in Franconia-Crawford Notch.
« Reply #5 on: June 24, 2018, 05:27:35 pm »
The Buffalo Corral at Rumney. Lots of good mellow routes. Not too long and fixed anchors to set up. Easiest to lead but might be able to sneak up the side and set up a tr  without too much hassle

Sssshhhh! j/k

I just found this place last week and will be bringing a summer camp there Monday's and Tuesday's for quite a bit of the summer.

It is a really cool little spot... like Lost Horizon (but better)... no... I mean worse.... it kinda sucks there. Super long approach. Loose rock. Bad anchors. Poison Ivy everywhere............

^ none of that.  ::)


Offline xcrag_corex

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Re: Top ropable 5.4-5.6 in Franconia-Crawford Notch.
« Reply #6 on: June 24, 2018, 07:34:46 pm »
The Buffalo Corral at Rumney. Lots of good mellow routes. Not too long and fixed anchors to set up. Easiest to lead but might be able to sneak up the side and set up a tr  without too much hassle

Sssshhhh! j/k

I just found this place last week and will be bringing a summer camp there Monday's and Tuesday's for quite a bit of the summer.

It is a really cool little spot... like Lost Horizon (but better)... no... I mean worse.... it kinda sucks there. Super long approach. Loose rock. Bad anchors. Poison Ivy everywhere............

^ none of that.  ::)
Hahaha Dude secrets already out. A month ago youíd roll up to an empty lot on a Saturday. Now itís packed. Crazy. Nice access to the NW Crags as well!!! Lots of nice lines at The Buffalo Pit as well!
-Jeremy Ballou

"know how to rock, ain't afraid to roll"

Offline PG

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Re: Top ropable 5.4-5.6 in Franconia-Crawford Notch.
« Reply #7 on: June 28, 2018, 10:13:12 am »
Not to far from Franconia Notch is Kinsman Notch. It's in the New Secrets of The Notches. A short walk in and you' come to a 100 ft slab with a couple of routes and several variations. A 70 meter rope works well and a 60 is close. Just beyond that is a sport route but I'd think twice about leading it. Some of the hangers were loose and I think the book calls it a 5.6. I've climbed several times with the crux coming around 5.9 if you don't use the tree. I cleaned the route several years ago but I'm not sure how much traffic has been out there. I do know there has been more traffic out there since the book came out. Just past there is another area with several lines in the 5.3 to 5.4 range. All trad gear and the line goes up about 160 ft. From there you can drop down and get to the previous route and set up a tr. A very quiet place and I've rarely seen other people out there. You also mentioned Artist's Bluff. That is an excellent choice with climbs on the left 5.2 to center 5.4/5.5 and the right side going in at 5.6+++ only if you stay off the arÍte. Also the top of middle Sugarloaf, the west side. You can set up an anchor at the top and drop in. There are several lines in the easy grades and it's a nice hike in. Not to mention the views are killer. This is also in the guide.
Good luck and enjoy, PG

Offline mitchy

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Re: Top ropable 5.4-5.6 in Franconia-Crawford Notch.
« Reply #8 on: July 12, 2018, 04:44:27 pm »
Ok, thanks for the replies. One more specific question. How do I get to little Mona Lisa? I found the standard rt to the right of the trail, I got all the way to the top where you get the beautiful view of Ech lake and Cannon. But where is the trail to little Mona Lisa? Iím assuming I walked right past it. I went to that giant boulder with a few bolts on, but turned around there. Thanks for the help guys, Mitchy

Offline tblackadarftw

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Re: Top ropable 5.4-5.6 in Franconia-Crawford Notch.
« Reply #9 on: July 13, 2018, 08:28:46 am »
Ok, thanks for the replies. One more specific question. How do I get to little Mona Lisa? I found the standard rt to the right of the trail, I got all the way to the top where you get the beautiful view of Ech lake and Cannon. But where is the trail to little Mona Lisa? Iím assuming I walked right past it. I went to that giant boulder with a few bolts on, but turned around there. Thanks for the help guys, Mitchy

Yup you walked right past. On your approach the base of the route is on the left as soon as the trail meets the cliff. To access the top Hike up the stone steps, go left at the junction toward bald mountain and as the trail enters the woods look left for a faint climbers trail that gives you access to the bolts.


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