Author Topic: rap anchors  (Read 691 times)

Offline PG

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rap anchors
« on: February 21, 2019, 10:33:58 AM »
What is it with rap anchors ? About a month ago I put up a rap anchor in an area popular with guides. It's a small place in Franconia Notch that I would not prefer to mention. The anchor was around a birch tree, used a 7mm cord and 2 rap rings. It was done properly, text book, bomber. I went back about 3 weeks later and it was gone. I felt that I go there enough, build an anchor at that tree and rap off it all the time so something like a semi permanent anchor would help the life of the tree. It seems that other places I've done the same but someone feels the need to take them down. Even once at Echo crag I backed up a single rap ring with a worn (leave behind) locker. Next time I visited the climb it was gone only to leave the single rap ring. Ya know everybody benefits from a healthy tree and a proper rap station. This seems to be a common practice of taking rap gear. Not sure why except there maybe  some low life climbers or they just don't know why someone would leave rap gear behind. I could see it the stuff is worn or tattered. Then replace it. Or just leave it so it can be salvaged.
PG

Offline Admin Al

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Re: rap anchors
« Reply #1 on: February 27, 2019, 09:22:53 AM »
Agreed... I've never understood it. The same thing happened all the time on AP Treat on Cathedral. I've given up...
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Offline Homeless Junkie

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Re: rap anchors
« Reply #2 on: February 28, 2019, 06:26:08 PM »
 I rigged up an anchor made up of two rings and 9mm static at the top and very left of the Trestle slab a couple years ago. The usual line has one but not the left one. That was gone the next time I walked by.

 Iíve used bail biners to make rap anchors redundant only to see them disappear as well.
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Offline pappy

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Re: rap anchors
« Reply #3 on: March 07, 2019, 10:25:06 AM »
Maybe itís just guides. A number of years ago we were descending the Kain route on Bugaboo, and one of the rap stations was a wad of old slings around a very loose chockstone. Unimpressed, we backed it up with an Arrow which we left as our community service. The next day I went up the NE Ridge. There were three guided parties in front of us, the only other people on the mountain. After summitting, you descend the Kain Route. When we got to that rap station the pin was gone. Guides.
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Offline Admin Al

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Re: rap anchors
« Reply #4 on: March 10, 2019, 09:37:20 AM »
Maybe itís just guides. A number of years ago we were descending the Kain route on Bugaboo, and one of the rap stations was a wad of old slings around a very loose chockstone. Unimpressed, we backed it up with an Arrow which we left as our community service. The next day I went up the NE Ridge. There were three guided parties in front of us, the only other people on the mountain. After summitting, you descend the Kain Route. When we got to that rap station the pin was gone. Guides.

Pappy - obviously I can't speak to the Bugaboos incident, tho I would be pretty surprised if it was the guides here that are doing that. but ya never know...
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Offline JBro

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Re: rap anchors
« Reply #5 on: March 10, 2019, 07:38:55 PM »
Well if it wasn't the guides it must have been the gosh darn liberals...

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Offline pappy

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Re: rap anchors
« Reply #6 on: March 11, 2019, 08:38:45 AM »
Maybe itís just guides. A number of years ago we were descending the Kain route on Bugaboo, and one of the rap stations was a wad of old slings around a very loose chockstone. Unimpressed, we backed it up with an Arrow which we left as our community service. The next day I went up the NE Ridge. There were three guided parties in front of us, the only other people on the mountain. After summitting, you descend the Kain Route. When we got to that rap station the pin was gone. Guides.

Pappy - obviously I can't speak to the Bugaboos incident, tho I would be pretty surprised if it was the guides here that are doing that. but ya never know...

I know. The incidents I've had where a guide was annoying or a jerk have all been in Canada, though not all of them were Canadian. Most seem to be knowledgeable, professional, and fun to be with. But their interests are diametrically opposed to mine--I have zero interest in 'growing the sport' or increasing the number of climbers. So I like to tweak them. And the OP mentioned the area was popular with guides. Hmmm...
If you're gonna be stupid, you gotta be tough.

Offline Admin Al

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Re: rap anchors
« Reply #7 on: March 14, 2019, 11:21:25 PM »
Well if it wasn't the guides it must have been the gosh darn liberals...

HA
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Offline NEAlpineStart

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Re: rap anchors
« Reply #8 on: March 16, 2019, 09:42:39 PM »
Kinda late to this thread and been a bit absent lately but gotta say if this was at The Flume that place needs one decent fixed rap anchor after working there a week ago. I hadn't climbed there in over a decade but I recalled the 3rd class scramble to access the more popular TR lines. While we were there mid-week we saw out-of-state groups arrive and sketch scramble up and down that ramp... IDK... I dislike un-needed tat anchors but well thought out low-vis anchors have a place... and IMO guides usually place & support them... case in point the bomber static line anchor above Chicken Delight/Laytons.... which is basically used for descending with clients en-route to Upper Refuse.

Back on point, the Flume is a summer tourist privately owned area, so I could see those who guide there more frequently being OCD about leaving any trace that might threaten future access...

If it was the Flume, or wherever, and you really think it was local guides, I'd suggest emailing/calling those services that work in that area. Maybe you could confirm/deny that it was them and not just some rando who hates tat? There might be a side of the issue missing (like not wanting to leave anything fixed on private land) or maybe it's just some anti-fixed-anchor Batman at work... who knows.
« Last Edit: March 16, 2019, 09:44:35 PM by NEAlpineStart »

Offline OldEric

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Re: rap anchors
« Reply #9 on: March 18, 2019, 09:48:07 AM »
The Flume is owned by the state (not private).
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Offline PG

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Re: rap anchors
« Reply #10 on: March 31, 2019, 02:44:22 PM »
I have climbed at the Flume for many years and yes I did leave a rap anchor there many years ago. And yes it was also taken down. I can see that the owners(state of NH) reason to take it down even when it was a camoflage color webbing. However the place I'm talking about is an out of the way area not visible to anyone but climbers. The reason I left it was to save a tree from damage after repeated raps. Maybe posting this here might enlighten some people why we leave rap anchors or back up binders behind. So hopefully they leave the stuff behind. Bail gear is another thing and I hope most climbers can tell the difference. I know that some of the guiding community does maintain rap anchors at popular guiding areas. It only makes sence for them as they are visiting these areas on a regular basis. I thank them and respect them.