Author Topic: pinnacle  (Read 1367 times)

Offline Admin Al

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pinnacle
« on: November 10, 2004, 01:48:28 pm »
went up & soloed pinnacle today. at 8:30, about 5 minutes away from Pinkham, I ran into a climber (Mike ?) coming down from having already ticked it. he said it was thin but OK. so I went up & did it myself. frankly I thought it was marginal. on the 1st pitch I did a far right-hand start and then back left into the middle. the water was running like crazy. the snowy middle section was pretty spooky & very hollow. that was where I was most nervous. the upper part was fine as usual, just a slog to the Alpine Garden.

I can't reccommend it for a while longer. frankly you might as well solo it. there is minimal gear where you might want it. FWIW the picture from Tim is misleading. it looks much fatter in the pic than it actually is. I'll post some other pics tomorrow with the Report.

Al
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Offline bumpkin

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Re: pinnacle
« Reply #1 on: November 11, 2004, 02:13:50 pm »

Hmm.... how did Damnation, Yale look?

Did you get a glance at Tuck's?

Photos from Chauvinguides look very promising, so I'm surprised to hear that you thought things were so marginal.

Offline Admin Al

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Re: pinnacle
« Reply #2 on: November 11, 2004, 04:52:45 pm »
Bumpkin,

well I tell it like I sees it my friend. just my opinion tho. i'm sure my marginal is someone else's jug! <grin> the Report today & the pictures pretty much tell the story. I simply can't recommend Pinnacle for most folks at this time. you asked about Yale, here is a pic. the bulges looked like they were coming, but not in yet. Odells isn't in yet either.

cheers,

Al

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Offline DWarriner

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Re: pinnacle
« Reply #3 on: November 12, 2004, 06:38:59 am »
Quote

Hmm.... how did Damnation, Yale look?

Did you get a glance at Tuck's?

Photos from Chauvinguides look very promising, so I'm surprised to hear that you thought things were so marginal.


bumpkin,  I don't see any current pictures of Huntington on Chauvin's website.  He reports things are sketchy.

Where are the pictures you are refering to?

-David
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Offline bumpkin

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Re: pinnacle
« Reply #4 on: November 12, 2004, 08:57:19 am »
URL is
http://www.chauvinguides.com/PhotoArchive/condphotoarchive.cfm

Very saucy pictures of the black dyke and Fafnir, check it out. F'rinstance:


And, the topic at hand, Pinnacle Gully:



BTW Al, nice pic of Tuck's and the Alpine Garden. I just saw them.

Call me crazy but I predict a horde of seriously maladjusted folks storming the ravines this weekend in the hopes of even the smallest scrap of ice. Weirdos.

Count me among them, natch.
« Last Edit: November 12, 2004, 09:03:13 am by bumpkin »

Offline Admin Al

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Re: pinnacle
« Reply #5 on: November 12, 2004, 11:42:03 am »
I think that it's great that people are climbing the Dike & Fafnir now. they are bold climbs at this time of the year and should be a lot of fun. I just don't feel that I can recommend the stuff in the Ravine for the average climber at this time. the snow is not completely consolidated and I forgot to mention in the Report that there was a crack in the snow across the top of the approach shield on Pinnacle. you want to really keep a heads up if you are going to climb up there this early in the season. remember what happened at Thanksgiving in Tucks a while back!

that said, I had an exhilerating time on Wednesday.

enjoy,

Al
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Offline rustyrat

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Re: pinnacle
« Reply #6 on: November 12, 2004, 12:47:03 pm »
Bumpkin - the pic you refer too is actually Central not Pinnacle. Just got back from a great morning up there. Hoped to do Pinnacle but a party on first pitch, so headed up Central - pretty much fun aerobic neve all the way. FYI there is a line of fixed rap anchors down the route, stout pitions leaver biners and all. Not sure why, but they are there if someone wants a quick and easy descent back down into the ravine or if you need some nice solid pitons - central would be a place to head! Warm up there today. Tucks headwall doesn't look exciting at all, but Damnation and Yale would be great.
« Last Edit: November 12, 2004, 01:01:35 pm by rustyrat »

Offline dogboy

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Re: pinnacle
« Reply #7 on: November 13, 2004, 02:47:14 pm »
Anybody been up into the ravines today (Sat 13th)?  I'm heading up tomorrow, and I was wondering which way to head.

Thanks!
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Offline Tim

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Re: pinnacle
« Reply #8 on: November 13, 2004, 02:54:11 pm »
There was many a party lined up for Pinnacle.  It looked okay.
A couple parties climbed Central, one did Damnation, I think (i saw them start, but didn't see them top-out).  We did Harvard Bulge into Diagonal, it was fun.  The steeper snow was set-up pretty well.  We only swam once for about 50 feet.  The steeper ice below diagonal and Yale was a bit funky, good ice on top of snow made for some "attention getting" ice fractures!  
I sent Al a photo that shows all of Pinnacle.  Maybe he'll post it?
For what its worth, I didn't see anything worth climbing in Tux.
« Last Edit: November 13, 2004, 03:56:30 pm by Tim »

Offline hella

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Re: pinnacle
« Reply #9 on: November 14, 2004, 10:52:55 am »
did pinnacle on saturday at around noon.  it must have frozen a lot in the past couple days, because we were able to get in a few pretty solid placements (still mostly slung stubbies though).  that being said, it was still quite thin and hollow sounding.  good fun nonetheless.

Offline bumpkin

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Re: pinnacle
« Reply #10 on: November 15, 2004, 10:44:38 am »
Went up Saturday. We arrived to an empty ravine, climbed Odell's, then descended, climbed Pinnacle (by then another party showed up), walked over to Tuck's and farted around a little there, but things were warm, sloppy and coming down so we wandered back down. Beers in the parking lot at 2:30, which surprised me since the weather was so fine we spent lots of time flaking on ledges and just taking in the awesomeness of it all.

Then drove out via Crawford Notch and Franconia Notch to check things out.  

Bottom line: we need more cold, definetly.

I agree with Al's assessment: these climbs aren't "in" in the sense of being at their usual level of commitment and difficulty. They are climbable, but we actually solo'd them since it wasn't clear that this was much more sketchy than pitching it out. It certainly is faster.

Tuckerman ravine follies:



Offline Admin Al

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Re: pinnacle
« Reply #11 on: November 15, 2004, 11:58:36 am »
hey Bumpkin,

how did you get back down to the ravine form the top of Odells, or did you climb to the top? I didn't look at the Escape Hatch at all.

Al
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Offline bumpkin

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Re: pinnacle
« Reply #12 on: November 16, 2004, 11:03:55 am »
Wandered off left and dropped into south gully... a scruffy affair, much chewing on spruce and cursing at FLBs. Couldn't tell you much about the Escape Hatch, sorry.

Offline eastcoastclimb

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Re: pinnacle
« Reply #13 on: November 22, 2004, 06:11:18 am »
climbed it Nov. 20th - weather was perfect, ice was pretty thick in the middle of the first pitch - but it looked sketchier off to the right (so thats where we went).
definitly not as thick as Al's picture suggests, perhaps because of the week of warm weather and little or no snow/ice to rebuild.