Author Topic: New routes on Pinnacle Buttress  (Read 577 times)

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New routes on Pinnacle Buttress
« on: November 11, 2004, 04:42:52 AM »
On August 21st, 2004, Vasya Vorotnikov and Aleksey Shuruyev established a new route "The Balalayka Variation", 5.10c, 70 feet., which can be an alternative variation to the first 2 pitches of "Pinnacle Direct Direct", 5.9, on Pinnacle Buttress on Mt. Washington. Start the line 15 feet to the right of the original start (old tree), then follow an obvious crack to an overhang, and then turn left to the first bolt.  Next, climb through an overhang, to a flake/block (use extreme caution) and a small roof/visor, with the second bolt below it..  Mantle the visor, and climb up and to the right to a 1 in. crack. Then, pull over the lip to a sloping ledge with a good placement for a belay station. Gear: Trad gear up to 1 in.

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On August 28th, 2004, Vasya Vorotnikov and Aleksey Shuruyev established a new route; named "Vasya was Here", 5.11a, 70 feet which can be another variation of the first 2 pitches of "Pinnacle Direct Direct", 5.9, on Pinnacle Buttress on Mt. Washington. Start up the same crack as the Balalayka Variation. Climb straight up to an overhang, then turn right, and undercling the flake to the right, then climb around it, onto the top. Then, clip the first bolt, and face climb to the second bolt. Make a tricky traverse move to the left after the second bolt, and climb to an obvious 1 in. crack, to the right and up. The crack will turn to the left, and to the finish. The finish is ten feet to the right from the Balalayka variation. Gear: Trad gear up to 1 in.

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On September 4th, 2004, Aleksey Shuruyev, Katya Vorotnikova, Sergei
Motusevich and Dimitry Shirokov climbed the summer variation of the
"Shuruyev-Mirkina-Dynkin Route", III 5.9 A2 WI3 with 2 new pitches added at the beginning. Pitch one (150 ft. 5.9):  start 20 feet to the right from the bottom of Pinnacle Gulley Waterfall, and climb on easy terrain up and parallel to the waterfall to an obvious 2 in. crack (5.9, 10 feet). Pitch two (150 ft. 5.5): climb up and to the left to the obvious overhang above the stream. Pitch three (60 ft. 5.10 A1): start up the overhanging crack, and right away, traverse onto the small, tight flake that goes to the left. Follow the flake until it ends, and do an A1 mantle move over the edge, onto a slab and climb to the second overhang. Pitch four (50 ft. 5.9 A1): Aid the crack (can be done free as a hard 5.12),pull over the edge, and continue up the crack to the 3rd  small overhang. Pitch five (50 ft. 5.9): climb the overhang and continue up the crack to the ridge of "Pinnacle Direct Direct" Pitch six: finish "Pinnacle Direct Direct"Ê(5.9).

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Mt Washington ö New Route "Katyusha" WI3 A3 5.6 R
Climb the first two pitches and about 40 ft. of Pinnacle Gully. Climb the 25 foot overhang to the left by following a thin crack, which leads to a flake. Pull over the edge on a slab and climb the crack systems to the top of Pinnacle Buttress. Route History: Aleksey Shuruyev, Alex Masnev and Simon Genzer tried it first in November 2002. The try ended after Shuruyev took a fifteen footer. March 1, 2003 came back with Olga Mitkina. They climbed the overhang but could not make it over the edge because of icy rock, so they fixed a line with fifteen pieces of gear and went home. The next week, March 8, Shuruyev came back with Ilya Tatar and Katya Vorotnikova. They found nine pieces on the wall instead of fifteen. The rest was "Gone with the wind" including even solid pitons. Big thanks to the "wind" for leaving the rope and other gear! After finishing the route, Ilya and Aleksey decided to name the route after Katya ö a wonderful woman, the mother of three children, a great climber, scientist, pianist and gymnast to name a few of her talents. For those who don't know, March 8th is International Woman's Day.
Al Hospers
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