Author Topic: Newby lookin for some tips  (Read 1246 times)

Offline TopGun

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Newby lookin for some tips
« on: January 05, 2005, 01:38:50 pm »
I am 18 years old and over the summer i participated in a NOLS course up in Alaska and it gave me the love for ice.  We spent almost all our time on glacier and had about 6 solid days of ice climbing.  I feel pretty comfortable in my ability to set up anchors (Have been rock climbing since i was ten) and in alaska i had been put incharge of our climbing site on our last climbing day and oversaw all the anchors and whatnot.  My instructors all said i had done an excellent job.  Well thats a little bit of my history in the sport.  I was wondering if any of you had ideas for some good climbs i could do on toprope with a friend of mine who too took a NOLS course in AK.  Also if anyone wants to take us under their wing for a little or a long time, we are open to that.  Thank you
~Kyle Williams

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Newby lookin for some tips
« Reply #1 on: January 05, 2005, 02:55:50 pm »
Kyle. where are you located??? for starters and where would you be traveling to??  this would help people give you answers to your questions.

Offline DWarriner

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Re: Newby lookin for some tips
« Reply #2 on: January 06, 2005, 10:42:23 am »
I don't know what time of year you climbed in Alaska (this only applies if you climbed in summer), but one notable thing from going glacial to waterfall is that glacial ice tends to be much more plastic and continuous.  A lot of the climbs in NE can be quite brittle when "in."  This isn't so much of a consideration when top roping, but should be on your mind if you lead.

I remember an instructor on Mt Ranier laughing at the uselessness of a 17 cm ice screw on glacial ice in Washington(too short).  Out here people routinely use 10s and 13s.  22cms are are freakishly big in most circumstance except for anchors and rapping.

-David
There are no stupid questions - only stupid answers.

Offline TopGun

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Re: Newby lookin for some tips
« Reply #3 on: January 06, 2005, 04:37:48 pm »
Sorry about that, i live in North eastern MA but i am willing to travel within about 3-4 hours.  Yeah the ice in alaska was very plasticy and i am aware of the differences between the two.  I dont plan on leading at all this season, for i fear that would be extremely stupid of me.  For my anchors are most of the climbs up in the whites able to be protected with conventional climbing gear and some trees, i plan on getting a few screws but i have a full set of nuts, some hexs a cam, and a shitload of webbing.  Hopefully i can use that without too much reliance on screws and v-threads.  I work at REI so i can get some good deals on gear but keeping the cost down is always a plus.  Thanks again
~Kyle Williams

Offline DWarriner

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Re: Newby lookin for some tips
« Reply #4 on: January 07, 2005, 07:28:37 am »
White Mountains are probably your best bet.

For TR:

If you don't like walking, Rumney and North End Slabs at Cathedral are nice.

If you're not afraid to get some exercise both the Flume and Champney Falls are a lot of fun and very scenic.

There's TRing at Frankenstein, and it's a good place to check out a lot of popular, historic climbs.  

For all these climbs longs slings should be all you're need for anchors.

-David
There are no stupid questions - only stupid answers.

Offline GRH

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Re: Newby lookin for some tips
« Reply #5 on: January 10, 2005, 10:44:58 am »
TopGun.  I am a newbie and live in NE Mass.  I am new to the technical aspect and looking for people to toprope with.  I have 20 years experience in the whites, have done some rock climbing and mountineering, and looking to take the next step. I have my own gear and willing to drive.  I have climbed the snow for years, but nothing vertical.  

Offline TopGun

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Re: Newby lookin for some tips
« Reply #6 on: January 10, 2005, 07:55:31 pm »
Hey GRH, where in NE mass are you, im in Andover.  Maybe we can meet up some time and hit the ice.  Im always open for meeting new partners, my email is TopGun8614@hotmail.com feel free to send me a message.
~Kyle

Offline GRH

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Re: Newby lookin for some tips
« Reply #7 on: January 11, 2005, 06:21:14 am »
Top Gun, I sent you a PM.

Offline GRH

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Re: Newby lookin for some tips
« Reply #8 on: January 11, 2005, 06:27:32 am »
Hey Top Gun, the pm keep coming back to me.  Anyway I live in Gloucester and don't  mind driving.  I am a newbie, have my own gear, know the basics, but need experience.  I work FT and have a family so its just weekend day trips at this time.  Let me know if you heading north, and maybe I can tag along.
Gary

Offline Nick.B

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Re: Newby lookin for some tips
« Reply #9 on: January 13, 2005, 02:49:46 pm »
Hi all,
   I am new to ice climbing as well and would love to top rope with some fellow newbie,s. I spent a day out with IMCS in early December and highly recommend it. I am very comfortable on steep snow but waterfall ice is a much different experience, a lesson with a good guide would be very beneficial.
Rome wasn't built in a day but it fell in one

Offline GRH

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Re: Newby lookin for some tips
« Reply #10 on: January 14, 2005, 04:59:18 am »
I hear ya, and would love to do that, but $$ strapped right now.  Kids and christmas and all.  Thats why I am posting here and looking for TR partners, hopefully with a little experience.  Easy short pitches and gain some insight from others.