Author Topic: leashless, speechless  (Read 374 times)

Offline Admin Al

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leashless, speechless
« on: November 12, 2002, 08:26:52 PM »
anybody seen the article in Climbing on ice climbing without a leash on your tool? seems quite crazy to me. how the frell do you put in a screw or clip a draw without (potentially) letting go of the tool? and if you drop a tool, god help ya.

what do ya think? is this macho-nuts-o, or am I just showing my ancient 55 years???

Al
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Offline scottie_c

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Re: leashless, speechless
« Reply #1 on: November 20, 2002, 10:48:00 AM »
2 words "NEW SCHOOL"

The origin of going leashless (based on the article) was in Europe.  I have been doing dry tool pullups without leashes, and find it to be quite a bit harder.  It is a new thing, but you can see these types of trends with any sports...

Offline Admin Al

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Re: leashless, speechless
« Reply #2 on: November 20, 2002, 04:42:32 PM »
guess it's just been too long since I've been in ANY SCHOOL

<grin>

Al
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Offline Jaims

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Re: leashless, speechless
« Reply #3 on: November 21, 2002, 01:21:54 AM »
Hey Al,

I was a bit surprised by what you're saying about putting in screws without letting go of your axe - I've always placed an axe out of the way, hanging from the other one, then placed screws with my (now) free hand. Finally getting some quick-release leashes made the whole game soo much easier! I guess it is _almost_ cheating though, 'cos you can take a load of weight on the wrist loop. Not sure I'd get up anything without 'em!

Offline Admin Al

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Re: leashless, speechless
« Reply #4 on: November 21, 2002, 08:26:29 AM »
oops...

what I was really meaning was putting in rock gear or clipping bolts, not putting in screws. obviously if there is ice you can place the tool & let go of it. I do that all the time. I suppose you could hang a tool off the other one to clip, it just seems soooo hard!!!

Al
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Offline Jaims

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Re: leashless, speechless
« Reply #5 on: December 02, 2002, 04:31:32 PM »
I agree - it's knackering! But then again, there's no leases in competitive ice climbing at all. I guess if they drop an axe half way up a tower it's not quite a life-threatening as ten pitches up a mountain route...

Offline kurtster

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Re: leashless, speechless
« Reply #6 on: December 02, 2002, 06:16:21 PM »
hey al i have seen pics of them hanging there tool over there shoulder and placing thier pro .

Offline Dan_Kilburn

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Re: leashless, speechless
« Reply #7 on: December 26, 2002, 03:16:39 AM »
There's a really good article by one of the new young hot shots on leashless climbing in this winter's Black Diamond catalog.  The only thing I can say on the subject is my arms hurt just thinking about how hard those moves are.

Dan
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Re: leashless, speechless
« Reply #8 on: December 31, 2002, 02:12:42 PM »
If you all are refering to the same article I saw, Will Gadd was spraying about how piss easy grade5 ice is (and lets face it, if you are in reasonable shape, wiegh 110 lbs and can do one armed pull ups all frickin day long, it is). I say try my new leashless tools. I've attached the seat to an old Poma lift  to my tools ( a trash can lid works just as well) so I can hang out all day on any grade ice. And best of all, I can put down my friends who still use leashes like I did last week!

Offline Admin Al

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Re: leashless, speechless
« Reply #9 on: January 03, 2003, 05:27:26 PM »
I dare any of the young hot shots to go over to IME & borrow a set of the old wooden shaft tools, step-in crampons and hemp ropes and go up Pinnacle Gully. talk about putting things into perspective!!!

al
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Offline kevin

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Re: leashless, speechless
« Reply #10 on: February 04, 2003, 05:36:43 AM »
Big AL, there is a DVD out by Charlet/Petzl showing ice comps.  the competitors are tucking their axes UNDER the chin<choke!!!>.  would have to think that a boot ax belay would be chalenging.
kevin

Offline Admin Al

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Re: leashless, speechless
« Reply #11 on: February 04, 2003, 08:57:07 AM »
I've been climbing on the Trango Madame Hook lately. it's one of those rad new tools with all the angles & knobs. actually I've found it to be really fun and a new challenge. it's something that can keep you fresh. I also found that hanging the tool over your shoulder works pretty well.

al
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Offline Jaims

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Re: leashless, speechless
« Reply #12 on: February 04, 2003, 09:26:52 AM »
Yeah, I've hooked my axe over my shoulder a few times whilst hunting for stuff (fluff in belly button etc.) and it works pretty well - I'm always just a bit concerned about snagging my jacket in the process!

I can see the benefit though, when the ice is a bit too fragile and icicley to just stick your axe in out of the way whilst placing screws - I've had too many close shaves (well, one, but that was enough!) this season with almost losing an axe on the lead. Think I must be out of practise!

Offline cguertin

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Re: leashless, speechless
« Reply #13 on: February 19, 2003, 10:45:25 AM »
Velcro on your chest...velcro on your tool...that will hold it...

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Re: leashless, speechless
« Reply #14 on: February 19, 2003, 11:49:16 AM »
Leashless climbing is not new, in fact it,s very old.  Leashes were added to ice axes long after ice climbing began.  A lot of the earliest pure water ice and alpine routes were climbed without leashes.  In fact when people started using leashes the "old guard" looked at it as cheating.  Also the first leashes used were applied ski pole style.  What is new about leashless climbing is the tools; they have been designed with a great deal more ergonomics than the old 70cm piolets of yore.

Just thought I,d add little a historical perspective.

Climbing leashless is huge fun and should not be avoided or feared.  It,s not as hard as one might think and in many cases much easier.