Author Topic: RAD TRAD MIXED CRAG IN THE DAKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  (Read 636 times)

Offline Admin Al

  • NEClimbs Administrator
  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 8102
  • Climb 'till your forearms turn to jelly!
    • NEClimbs
RAD TRAD MIXED CRAG IN THE DAKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
« on: February 20, 2005, 06:39:26 PM »
This just in from Will Mayo:

If you like traditional mixed climbing, then drop everything and RUN (don't walk) to the Underwood Crag in the ADK.  The cliff is a 40 minute hike from the parking site along the road just south of "Malfunction Junction" (Rte. 73 and Rte. 9).  The path is well-packed now.  File your taxes, file Chapter 11, file for divorce, file a lawsuit, do whatever it takes - just get to Underwood and don't forget your file!  Also, don't forget a full rack of cams, a full rack of nuts and a full rack of pins.  There are no bolts.

Ed Palen discovered this cliff years ago.  There are several moderate and difficult ice lines in this small canyon, and now there are many new high quality traditional mixed routes.  Jesse Williams climbed a stunning M6 involving a 105 degree 15' crack to a small hanger and vertical column above (100'); Ian Boyer opened a serious 100' M7R involving dicey hooking to a fragile and committing hanger with ground-fall potential; Boyer also climbed a stunning well-protected diagonally traversing line on the main cliff that attains the most prominent icicle (M7, 100'); Joe Szot opened "The Far Side" (M5R, 60') yesterday and I made the first ascent of the cliff's plum-line onsight.  The climb involves a 120 degree 30' crack to a blob of ice (crux) and then beautiful secure vertical drytooling in horizontal and diagonal cracks that offer some of the most enjoyable drytooling I have every experienced.  It finishes on a vertical smear of ice at the top of the cliff.  The route is called: "The Apology" (M8, 80') which is one of Plato's Socratic dialogues in which Socrates offers his "defense" during the Trial of Socrates.  It's the coolest mixed climb I have ever done.
Al Hospers
my music