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Author Topic: Climbing in Western NC  (Read 215 times)

Bryan

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Climbing in Western NC
« on: November 15, 2002, 08:44:01 AM »

Does anybody have any beta on climbing in western NC?  I am headed down there for a week and want to make the best of my trip.  I have heard that table rock can't be missed.  Any Beta??
Bryan
Climber697@aol.com
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schwortz

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Re: Climbing in Western NC
« Reply #1 on: November 15, 2002, 12:00:27 PM »

table rock sucks
looking glass is great
stone mountain is THE winter spot in north carolina
table rocks blows

check this out:
http://members.aol.com/wayneb4737/

the kelley guidebook is good
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puttyman

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Re: Climbing in Western NC
« Reply #2 on: November 15, 2002, 01:13:53 PM »

OK, so Table Rock may not be the greatest, but if you are looking for a little adventure, the rest of Linville gorge is really nice, it feels very remote, and there are some great climbs.  The Mummy and the Daddy are 5.6s in the amphitheatre that are very good, or a bit harder (5.11) is the Open Book, which is pretty cool.  The North Carolina Wall is very remote, but there are some awsome climbs there, like Bumblebee buttress and Rinky Dink-however dont get in trouble down there!  It would suck to have to get out with an injury, and even backing off can be a pain.
Looking Glass is really nice, with lots of nice features in the rock.  The south face should be warm, great climbs there include gemini crack and zodiac, both 5.8s.
Of course if you really want adventure, the tallest face on the east coast is Whitesides, do the Original Route, my topo was ripped out of the book, but I think it is about 10 pitches.  
And, if it is open, (I am not sure of access) Rumbling Bald has some of the prettiest scenery around, and the cereal buttress is great.  Climb lots.
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Bryan

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Re: Climbing in Western NC
« Reply #3 on: November 18, 2002, 09:39:04 AM »

Thanks for the Beta.
 What part of the state is whiteside on?  About how far from Asheville.  Is it covered in NC guidebook.  Thanks Again!
Bryan
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schwortz

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Re: Climbing in Western NC
« Reply #4 on: November 18, 2002, 12:04:24 PM »

i've never been to whitesides but two of my regular partners have...and i've read plenty about it

its a hardcore place....easiest routes are 5.10 or above....and very very runout......not the realm of the inexperienced or beginner

if you've never been down there before check out looking glass, rumbling bald, stone mountain, or linville gorge
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puttyman

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Re: Climbing in Western NC
« Reply #5 on: November 20, 2002, 04:13:48 AM »

It is true that whitesides is pretty intimidating.  the original route is 5.11, and does involve some route finding.  most pitches harder than 5.7 are well protected, but 5.6-5.7 pitches are run out.  the first pitch is a slab like you'd find at whitehorse ledge, rated 5.7 with no pro, but if you are used to climbing in n. conway, that might not be a problem.  certainly it would not be a good idea to climb there if you had no experience with multipitch, and 5.11 is pushing your ability.  The 5.11 pitch is actually a bolt ladder and is aided (A0) if it is problematic.  the approach is about an hour, and you walk to the bottom of the cliff and climb out, so if you back off, you have a long walk back to your car.  the Kelley book has a very good description.  cant remember exactly, but i think whitesides is about 1 hour from asheville, near Highlands (a nice little town) and Cashiers.
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