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Author Topic: The first 5.10  (Read 137 times)

TZM

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The first 5.10
« on: March 24, 2005, 03:04:29 PM »

Who did the first 5.10?  Any history buffs out there...help me out.

Thanks,
TZM
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Admin Al

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Re: The first 5.10
« Reply #1 on: March 24, 2005, 04:20:51 PM »

might have been MF at the Gunks...

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tradmanclimbz

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Re: The first 5.10
« Reply #2 on: March 24, 2005, 04:48:12 PM »

the first 5.10  in this country was allmost certainly rated 5.8 or 9 at its conception ;D They wrer climbing at the 5.10 level in Dresden Germany in the 1930's also who knows what level the Anazasi where climbing at?
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Schandy

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Re: The first 5.10
« Reply #3 on: March 25, 2005, 05:48:14 AM »

Quote
They wrer climbing at the 5.10 level in Dresden Germany in the 1930's also who knows what level the Anazasi where climbing at?


Those dresden climbs are crazy.  I saw a Henry Barber slideshow showing these huge eyebolts that they used.  They invented the bolt before the 'biner so they had to climb to the bolt, untie, thread it and re-tie. Leader and second!  On 5.10 without shoes!!!  That is a real man's 5.10
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scottie_c

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Re: The first 5.10
« Reply #4 on: March 25, 2005, 06:09:40 AM »

MF @ the gunks is rated as a 5.9
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DWarriner

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Re: The first 5.10
« Reply #5 on: March 25, 2005, 06:26:48 AM »

Quote
Those dresden climbs are crazy.  I saw a Henry Barber slideshow showing these huge eyebolts that they used.  They invented the bolt before the 'biner so they had to climb to the bolt, untie, thread it and re-tie. Leader and second!  On 5.10 without shoes!!!  That is a real man's 5.10

That's really funny.  I don't think I would have been a climber back then.

-David
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OldEric

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Re: The first 5.10
« Reply #6 on: March 25, 2005, 06:53:46 AM »

This is one of those topics that gets beaten to death on the various forums and no resolution is ever achieved.  The worldly view is often - Oliver Perry Smith (American ex-pat living in Germany) in Germany in ~1910.  Weisner probably did some things of that grade before immigrating.  The Great Beast (Crowley) is rumored to have done some hard stuff.

In this country the Notcut Cutter variation to the Bastille is often mentioned.  Mac wall stuff at the Gunks,  Turner stuff right in your backyard...
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TZM

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Re: The first 5.10
« Reply #7 on: March 25, 2005, 07:54:21 AM »

Thanks for the comments. As a Colorado boy, I guess I never questioned Layton Kor on the Bastille, Eldorado Canyon, as top dog. I started climbing in high school (sixties) and the buzz was that Kor had finally broken the "sound barrier" in climbing. I'm sure there are numerous claims to the title, that have quite frankly, never interested me until now. I don't mind at all if you flog on this one. Never heard about Dresden Climbing. Sounds fascinating. Thanks everyone for your comments. More??
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LTIAC

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Re: The first 5.10
« Reply #8 on: March 28, 2005, 07:13:13 AM »

I thought I read somewhere that Chuck Pratt did the first 5.10?
Here's a bit of history about him:  
http://www.exumguides.com/news/chuckpratt.shtml

Then there's this list:  http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/hard.htm
« Last Edit: March 28, 2005, 12:13:42 PM by LTIAC »
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Broken_Spectre

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Re: The first 5.10
« Reply #9 on: April 05, 2005, 11:42:23 AM »

Phillip Flamm route on the Civetta in the Dolomites climbed at 5.10d in 1953? I believe.  Same face is the Soleder route 5.9 40+ pitches 1925. It took a long time before american free climbing began to catch up to Euro free climbing.  These are just two examples off the top of my head and I am sure Dresden had shorter but much harder problems earlier on.
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