Author Topic: dry winter rock?  (Read 811 times)

Offline Ambler

  • NEClimbs Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 10
    • Climbing home page
dry winter rock?
« on: November 29, 2002, 12:41:52 pm »
For those of us who miss the desert this time of year....

Can anyone suggest a few New Hampshire or New England
crags where, in sunny weather, you've found decent rock
climbing in winter?  Big overhangs at Sundown or Rumney
I suppose, but how about 5.11 and under?


  • Guest
Re: dry winter rock?
« Reply #1 on: December 10, 2002, 08:32:20 am »
Some of the Ragged Mountain crags(CT) are good in the winter.  The main face does not face the sun, but some of the other smaller crags around do.  Get good beta before you go because they are hard to find.  Climb on.  
Anybody know of some better places to climb in the winter?

Offline Admin Al

  • NEClimbs Administrator
  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 8019
  • Climb 'till your forearms turn to jelly!
    • NEClimbs
Re: dry winter rock?
« Reply #2 on: December 10, 2002, 01:18:10 pm »
I see people out on the South Buttress of Whitehorse and on Humphrey's on sunny days. before there gets to be too much snow it certainly is possible. in fact it felt really warm in the sun today. probably mid-30's I would guess.

Al Hospers
my music


  • Guest
Re: dry winter rock?
« Reply #3 on: December 10, 2002, 08:08:13 pm »
Went to square ledge today (in albany, not in pinkham notch), and there is excellent, dry rock to climb there, with a great view, and an easy, although longish approach.  A great alpine feel, bring your belay jacket!


  • Guest
Re: dry winter rock?
« Reply #4 on: December 11, 2002, 10:38:43 am »
Where can I get some beta on Square Ledge??  (Directions, routes, ect....)  Guide Book??


  • Guest
Re: dry winter rock?
« Reply #5 on: December 11, 2002, 10:10:16 pm »
Hike/Ski up the Olivarian Brook trail then either go right on the Passaconaway cutoff, or keep left and approach the ledge from the other side.  It's about four miles either way, but very little elevation gain.   Really makes no difference, both trails lead to the top.  We TR'd a couple of obvious routes on the north side.  Some absolutely beautiful pink granite walls on the south side that are super steep and have some cracks.  Probably some good aid possibilities as well.  You could easily camp on top of the cliff.  Be aware that this is a potential peregrine nesting area, be sure to heed any signs to this effect.  This are might have been in Webster's 2nd edition book.  Even better, forget the book and GO HAVE an ADVENTURE!


  • Guest
Re: dry winter rock?
« Reply #6 on: December 16, 2002, 05:07:31 am »
I was at Sundown on Saturday. There were perfect conditions for rock climbing. Vultures was totally dry. There is no excuse for not climbing rock during the winter.


  • Guest
Re: dry winter rock?
« Reply #7 on: December 24, 2002, 10:58:21 am »
The problem is that in the northeast the rock has to be overhanging in order to stay dry.  And you'll have to go party with the Abercrombie-clad climbers of the Gunks to find overhanging 5.8's.  
Bring all of those old leaver-biners to the only rock worth climbing on cold winter days. Sunny, south-facing Sundown and Rumney.  Climb until your arms give out or your fingers go numb, and when spring rolls around, maybe you'll be climbing harder than you were this past fall.
If it is sunny enough to climb on the South Buttress, it is usually warm enough to melt snow.  So you'll probably end up having to hop over water streaks.

I live in the heart of the White Mountains, so myself and most people around the area find it hard to justify going south to climb trap rock (aka, crap rock) if i ever go down there, i will only be bringing one piece of gear (a #11 hex) to see if i can find a good placement when it KLANKS off the skull of your southern new england, bolt-chopping, pissed-off, self promoting, never-amounted-to-anything, climber.  All of you CT climbers know who i'm talking about!  He and the rock are the two reasons that CT will NEVER be a destination, even in the winter.