Author Topic: Pinnacle expedition style...  (Read 1801 times)

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Pinnacle expedition style...
« Reply #15 on: November 11, 2005, 09:28:13 PM »
My absolute favorite was at devils tower about 10 years ago. A couple of supposedly hard 5.12 spurt climbers from the NRG took an all day spanking  on the 5.6 Durrance rt.  withour reaching the summit. They groveled back into camp that evening rasberryed from head to toe and mumbling something about troubble with the ropes. They were gone back to verginny in the am and there were a coupple of fixed ropes on the durrance rap. So much for 5.12 ;D

Offline DH

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Re: Pinnacle expedition style...
« Reply #16 on: November 15, 2005, 01:17:49 PM »
Oh man,

I think they were friends of mine, havn't spoken to em in a coon's age but they never talked too much about the trip to devils Tower.  I was all excited to hear about it and they changed the subject, said something about it being unbearably hot.  Might not be the same guys but I always knew there was more to their trip than it being too hot.  I bet that it's a crazy place to climb.  Maybe one day I can have the privalige of epicing off a 5.6, have to learn to climb 5.12 first though I guess.

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Pinnacle expedition style...
« Reply #17 on: November 15, 2005, 01:30:51 PM »
The durrance crack is one of this countrys more renound sanbags ;D It still probobly isn't much harder than 5.8 ;D First week of Sept. 96/97? It was only hot if you were too slow and getting spanked ;D It most definatly ain't sport climbing though  ;D had they gone to the junkyard and done about a hundred training laps on New Yosemite they would have been all set ;D
« Last Edit: November 15, 2005, 01:39:50 PM by tradmanclimbz »

Offline rockytop

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Re: Pinnacle expedition style...
« Reply #18 on: November 16, 2005, 02:44:46 AM »
Well, we have a nice photo of the offending rope.
Too bad Michael didn't bring another rope with him and ascended the fixed one and rap off with both. (providing it wasn't already frozen in.)  Still not too late for someone who lives over there and needs a good aerobic workout.  ;)  

Maybe bring a dry set of clothes too.  :P

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Pinnacle expedition style...
« Reply #19 on: November 16, 2005, 06:10:22 AM »
Quote
Maybe bring a dry set of clothes too.


I think "dry" is the operative word here. after yesterday & today I doubt there is even as much ice as in Michael's picture. well at least the ground-water table is high now.

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Offline rockytop

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Re: Pinnacle expedition style...
« Reply #20 on: November 16, 2005, 11:07:07 AM »
Now if only someone would leave a rope hanging off the cliff left of Omega.  ;)

...and some pipe leading up into the trees. heh,heh.

Offline SCUD

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Re: Pinnacle expedition style...
« Reply #21 on: November 16, 2005, 11:26:46 AM »
Would someone tell me exactly where the rope is in the photo of PG on the home page. I looked for a couple minutes & couldn't find it. Is it me or what? Thanks -
"Going to the mountains is going home." -John Muir

Offline rustyrat

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Re: Pinnacle expedition style...
« Reply #22 on: November 16, 2005, 11:53:02 AM »
Time for new glasses I guess  :) look at the black buttress low down in the center of the route and you'll spy a wisp of red floss.

Offline SCUD

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Re: Pinnacle expedition style...
« Reply #23 on: November 16, 2005, 05:56:55 PM »
Thanks "Rusty"  -  Don't think I would ever have spotted it otherwise. Sure is faint.
"Going to the mountains is going home." -John Muir

Offline rockytop

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Re: Pinnacle expedition style...
« Reply #24 on: November 17, 2005, 03:55:00 AM »
Quote
....Sure is faint.


Kinda like how the guy who rapped off it was feeling.  ;)
« Last Edit: November 17, 2005, 03:56:50 AM by rockytop »

Offline Jim_Ewing

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Re: Pinnacle expedition style...
« Reply #25 on: November 17, 2005, 07:39:15 AM »
If you look real close you can see the fresh bolts they placed to rap from.  Judging from all the exposed rock I bet they damaged summer rock routes too.

Offline rustyrat

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Re: Pinnacle expedition style...
« Reply #26 on: November 17, 2005, 08:19:39 AM »
So that would explain the compresser that I can see hanging there?

Offline Admin Al

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Offline Jim_Ewing

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Re: Pinnacle expedition style...
« Reply #28 on: November 17, 2005, 11:38:05 AM »
Nice Photoshop-ing Al.  You managed to cover up the bolts, compressor, and the dry tool scratches.  The work of a true professional. ;)

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Pinnacle expedition style...
« Reply #29 on: November 17, 2005, 12:02:13 PM »
I try...

;D
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