Author Topic: Pinnacle expedition style...  (Read 2515 times)

Offline rockytop

  • NEClimbs Junior Member
  • **
  • Posts: 74
Re: Pinnacle expedition style...
« Reply #30 on: November 17, 2005, 12:14:49 pm »
At least the route looks doable...albeit a bit thin.  No need for a rope though, eh Jim?

Offline Tim

  • NEClimbs Junior Member
  • **
  • Posts: 85
  • Good thing its run-out, or i'd run out of gear!
Re: Pinnacle expedition style...
« Reply #31 on: November 17, 2005, 02:00:09 pm »
So I have to admit it... I tried and failed miserably!
Today I tried to retrieve the rope from pinnacle.  I wasn't prepared for the size of a project like that!  You really gotta have some balls to fix a rope that high up such a big mountain.  I didnt' even make it to the high-point of the goofers who hung it there!
I think I needed to move a camp closer to the "intended route" in order to have a hope of pushing that one any higher.
Actually, I needed a Dry-suit and scuba gloves.  After shaking the 6" diamiter ice coating off of the bottom half of the rope I proceded to ascend the fixed rope (which happens to be bright pink!)  not red as previously stated.  The rope began to ice up quick enough that my Petzl Ascender was slipping down the rope and the only thing I had that would work was a Reverso in "ascend" mode.  But I got up to a spot where the rope was frozen into a huge (6' by 4') piece of ice that was dirrectly in the water flow.  It was desperate situation to try to hack it out of the ice and my hands were freezing due to the liner gloves I was wearing!  So I rapped, warmed up my hands and had a second go at it, with much the same result.  The other real bummer is that it looks like a really nice rope!  But the party who left it CUT IT at the Burgshrund (sp?)
So it is only about 80 feet long.  
I wanted to retrieve it and auction it off on Al's Gear Exchange and give the procedes to his Fund raiser.  But this one is going to take a much more stout mountaineer than myself.  
I have an undieing appreciation for the pioneers who were bold enough to hang that thing up such a prized route, Even if it wasn't in Pure Alpine Style!
You'll be impressed to find out that we weren't the only party with their eyes on that prize either.  Our team got larger after my first attempt when we let Jim join the expedition.  We thought we had it in the bag with a team so large, but its gonna take a team of 8-10 at least.  Maybe he can send some pictures to Al and they can be posted on the Home Page!  It is probably the sickest attempt at a route that the White Mountains have seen all week!  Real history in the making!
« Last Edit: November 17, 2005, 02:07:33 pm by Tim »

Offline Admin Al

  • NEClimbs Administrator
  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 8055
  • Climb 'till your forearms turn to jelly!
    • NEClimbs
Re: Pinnacle expedition style...
« Reply #32 on: November 17, 2005, 03:27:32 pm »
pictures, pictures... I want pictures. this MUST be documented

<grin>
Al Hospers
____________________________________
my music
 http://www.soundsclever.com

Offline climbhigh

  • NEClimbs Junior Member
  • **
  • Posts: 88
  • I love YaBB 1G - SP1!
Re: Pinnacle expedition style...
« Reply #33 on: November 17, 2005, 07:23:36 pm »
Al I have recorded the memorable attempt  ;D but have no idea on how to post them, my lack of computer knowledge is only shrouded by inexperience at being a true mountaineer. If we were true mountaineers we could've established a base camp and pushed ourselves to the limit to retrieve the rope in question placed by true mountaineers. ::)

Offline Admin Al

  • NEClimbs Administrator
  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 8055
  • Climb 'till your forearms turn to jelly!
    • NEClimbs
Re: Pinnacle expedition style...
« Reply #34 on: November 17, 2005, 09:12:54 pm »
Check out the home page picture of Tim. Here's another of the shower stall that is Pinnacle! Thanks to Jim for the pix. I can't believe you guys actually did this. Obviously you guys have waaaay too much free time...

::)



Al Hospers
____________________________________
my music
 http://www.soundsclever.com

Offline rustyrat

  • NEClimbs Junior Member
  • **
  • Posts: 80
  • I love YaBB 1G - SP1!
Re: Pinnacle expedition style...
« Reply #35 on: November 18, 2005, 05:32:22 am »
Well you'll be right at home if you ever go "ice" climbing in scotland :D

Offline Griffin

  • NEClimbs Junior Member
  • **
  • Posts: 59
Re: Pinnacle expedition style...
« Reply #36 on: November 18, 2005, 09:11:08 am »
I must say, sitting here at my computer that I wish there was some sort of live webcam attached to the helmets of those brave souls going to retrieve the rope, guess I'll have to wait for the DVD to come out.  Of course without a brave sherpa or two to have stocked some tools up high, the extra weight of a helmet-cam would have been too cumbersome.  Haha!

But in all seriousness thanks for trying guys!

Offline DWarriner

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 506
  • - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Re: Pinnacle expedition style...
« Reply #37 on: November 19, 2005, 08:57:52 am »
Nice.

There are no stupid questions - only stupid answers.