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Author Topic: Seneca  (Read 107 times)

tradmanclimbz

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Seneca
« on: November 23, 2005, 07:57:20 AM »

thurs Nov.16th We are thinking of going to the gunks for the weekend. the only climeable ice is bound to be the dike/fafnir and i am not even close to being that strong this early in the season unless i have a rope gun 8) I check the temps and it is going to be COLD friday at the gunks. no point in paying good money for that kind of touture ::) I email WW and aske her if she is up for an adventure. she is game so i start packing and working on the van. I don't get to her house untill 6:00pm and we don't get on the road till seven. I power through the night and we finaly crash just past wilkes barre Pa at 2:00am fri morning. wake up to totaly frozen windows but we are cozy with down blankets and real sheets over a cushy mattress 8) Nothing like the old days sleeping on picknic tables w/ a honda civic loaded to the celing w/ gear and all my worldly possesions. We roll into seneca at 2:00pm  ready to climb. it is brutal cold and windy so we plan small. isa cruises up candy corner and all bundled up I leapfrog up finishing on the second pitch of Yee Gods. Pulling through the roof is a bit of a wakeup call to the seneca grades ;D It is getting late so we cruise up old ladies rt just to summit. Scrambling down to the rap at dusk we are estatic.  A brutaly cold night in princiss snowbird campground. The gas line on the propane camp stove freezes a few times while I am cooking dinner. We take our sweet time in the am letting things warm up. perfect blue sky day. about noon it is 50 degrees F and the cliff is calling. no one is on Extacy so we rope up. i keep forgeting how fun this climb is. wicked steep exposed face climbing on positive holds over sometimes tricky gear. it dosen't get much better than this. sunny and reasonably warm. the last pitch reminds me a lot of Underdog only here they call it 5.7 and there are no bolts ;D A sunny lunch of apples and snickers bars leaves us ready for more. A short scramble and hike brings us to the base of West Pole A stellar 4star 7+  the first pitch is easy. i get the perfect steep cracks of the 2nd pitch. It is colder now and the fleece is on.  I belay in the shade under the huge roof. Out comes the shell. Isa booties a nice fixed #1camalot on  her way up and then cranks through the huge doubble tiered roof. Only in seneca would a 4ft roof be 5.7+ I follow aware of the dammage this is doing to my torn rotator cuff :o this thing would be solid 10b at rumny ;D the direct finish is calling so i head up into the land of wide and gay off width. It is more of a grunt today than usual as i feel clumsy in all my layers and pretty worked from that roof. I  was also too lazy to hump the #4 camalot up here ??? I somehow grovel my way to the top way over the last overcamed#3 straddle the knife edge summit and take in the sunset. Awsome!  We eat redneck food on the poarch over harpers. Another frosty night complete with drunken college kids campfire guitar jam sing allong. good stuff. Sunday is way warmer. we hike arround back to the east face. T-shirts are the  dress code for today and the crag is swarming with happy climbers.  I am beat from my spanking yesterday so I give WW the leads. We cruise up Solar 5.7R  Another stellar 4 star climb. the first pitch is scary. the second pitch is long, steep, exposed and scary 8) some of the best 5.8+ climbing you can do on a 5.7 anywhers ;D The narrow summit ridge is awsome as usual. a few quick raps, a bit of troubble retriveing the red rope and we are on our way home. We keep a close eye on the leaky ATF line and the grinding of the self destructing Rt front wheel bearing. 700 miles and we are home 8)  Three days of climbing, 1400 miles of driveing. kind of reminds me of the freedom of my youth, spur of the moment and all that. As I dig through a huge pile of fresh emails and phone calls i read that the Dike and Fafnir were sent this weekend 8)
« Last Edit: November 23, 2005, 06:19:05 PM by tradmanclimbz »
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Admin Al

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Re: Seneca
« Reply #1 on: November 23, 2005, 05:16:35 PM »

great story tradman. obviously you & the WW had a great time reliving the wild & carefree days of your youth. I am TOTALLY envious. maybe when the kiddo gets just a tad bit older. <grin>

--al
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Vasken

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Re: Seneca
« Reply #2 on: November 30, 2005, 07:49:13 PM »

Welcome to Seneca Tradman! Never underestimate a Seneca "moderate"! Seneca's my home away from home during the rock season. Earlier this month, I headed there with my friend, Bill. We headed up Simple J Malarkey, (5.7+). This is one of my favorites. The first pitch is hard to protect, it's only 5.5, but "the leader must not fall!" The second pitch is a steep ramp to an exposed belay. The 3rd pitch is an awkward overhang followed by a moderate overhang followed by an easy overhang. Exposed, interesting and on great rock! This trip we did a variation on the last pitch. I continued  past the usual 2nd belay, around a bulge to a good anchor. Easy climbing leads up and right to a wild 4ft roof. Very juggy, 200ft off the deck! Definitely the best finish to the route. (Seneca 5.8) If you're not wild about the usual fare at Seneca, try the Purple Fiddle 30mi away at Thomas, WV. They have wraps, great sandwiches, 48 different beers, good coffee, small batch ice cream, and... they have live mountain music (bands from all over; even saw a band from Berlin once).                         HTTP: On sunny winter days, the East Face of Seneca warms right up!
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Seneca
« Reply #3 on: December 25, 2005, 07:57:30 PM »

Did simple J a few years ago. pretty fun. Funny thing is though, the 10's arn't that much harder than the eights and nines ;D typical sandbaggers, picking on the newbs 8)
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Vasken

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Re: Seneca
« Reply #4 on: December 26, 2005, 06:00:59 PM »

Yeh, Seneca is a funny place. For a long time in the 70's, it was said that there were no 5.11's there. Of coarse a lot of the "5.10's" got upgraded even up to 5.12! One thing for sure, the climbs are solid at their grade. I usually go for climbs there in the 5.7-5.9 range. Plenty of adventure to be had! It's great to have this place in my "backyard" for weekend trips.
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