Author Topic: Top Roping and Delicacy  (Read 124 times)

Offline dogboy

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Top Roping and Delicacy
« on: January 19, 2003, 08:13:09 AM »
OK, here goes...while I have, and will continue to, defend the practice of Top Roping ice on this bulletin board and elsewhere, I saw some things this weekend that were kind of ridiculous.  My partner and I went out to one of the smaller crags in the area that we knew would be in the sun.  When we got there only a few parties were climbing...one guide/client, and a couple of groups on top ropes.  We led a couple of the mixed climbs...and watched while the groups on top rope proceeded to hack the living crap out of the lines they were on.  Now, we're not talking about permanent environmental damage here, and the only folks who really give a crap about the state of the ice are ice climbers...but we are talking about being courteous to one's climbing peers.  By the end of the afternoon, there were at least 5 top ropes set up...some of the folks were climbing with a bit of grace and delicacy, and some looked like they were trying to bring the climb down on top of themselves.  So...two things.  Please, when you are climbing on top rope, pretend that you are leading.  Pretend that you can't afford to knock enormous chunks of the climb off.  Pretend that you have to move with a bit of caution.  And, if you are doing damage to the climb (which, on days as cold as this weekend, is somewhat inevitable), take a few laps on each line and then move on...don't run 15 laps until the climb you're on is no longer climbable.
I learned to climb ice on top rope...I think it's a fine way to gain experience and have fun.  But folks do need to be a little considerate.  With temps as cold as they are, climbs that get hacked take forever to come back...which is no fun for anyone.

Climb safe and hard...and have fun.
Everybody wants to go to heaven, but no one wants to die.

Offline slobmonster

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Re: Top Roping and Delicacy
« Reply #1 on: January 19, 2003, 01:31:32 PM »
jesus, go look at repentence if you want to see hacked.  you can climb the crux without tools!

the unfortunate reality of being into this growing sport is that we just have to accept that lots and lots of people will be out, using poor form, with gear nicer than we have.  perhaps if they continue to hack they'll retire to more pedestrian activities, and sell their gear at low prices on consignment at IME.
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Re: Top Roping and Delicacy
« Reply #2 on: January 20, 2003, 10:53:20 AM »
Complain, complain, complain. Maybe you should go home and cry on your pillow!

In the words of Henry Ford: "Don't find fault, find a remedy"

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Top Roping and Delicacy
« Reply #3 on: January 20, 2003, 06:48:10 PM »
of course if you wanna climb something that's not hacked why don't you try Dropline or Diagonal!
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Offline DWarriner

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Re: Top Roping and Delicacy
« Reply #4 on: January 22, 2003, 06:30:40 AM »
RE: .0  Amen.  Take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but hook placements.

RE: -.1  Anyone know where I can get an 800' rope so I can top rope Diagnol?  Talk about a forearm pump.

Anyone done this badboy yet?

-dw
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Offline dogboy

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Re: Top Roping and Delicacy
« Reply #5 on: January 22, 2003, 07:52:01 AM »
Yep...a friend of mine, a very good climber, led Diagonal.  He said the rock sections were some of the scariest leads he's done in a long time...which, coming from him, really means something.  Said the ice was relatively easy...whatever that means.
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Offline Admin Al

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Re: Top Roping and Delicacy
« Reply #6 on: January 22, 2003, 07:55:11 AM »
I assume that you're talking about Mark Givens. actually he was very happy to let Jim Ewing lead it all. he did say it was a very "bold lead." they drytooled the entire crack! it's a dicey 5.6.

Al
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Offline dogboy

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Re: Top Roping and Delicacy
« Reply #7 on: January 22, 2003, 08:33:11 AM »
Oops...didn't know which one had led it.  Very impressive, in any case!
Everybody wants to go to heaven, but no one wants to die.