NEClimbs.com forum

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  

News:

Reading the forum on your cell phone? There's an easier way. We've enabled a Tapatalk app that makes browsing the forum a whole lot easier. Check it out in the iPhone or Android store if you don't own it already.

Pages: [1]   Go Down

Author Topic: new shoes !  (Read 194 times)

kevin

  • NEClimbs Newbie
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 12
  • No matter where you go, there you are!" Buckaroo B
new shoes !
« on: January 27, 2003, 08:57:48 AM »

I,m ready to get new bots.  The Koflach,s I have been using for the last six years are big and heavy.  The Trango Ice,s and Nepal Extremes look to be more flexible in so far as heel hooking and the like.  I lead 3+ to 4 on a good day with plastic ice and plenty of coffee ( and the occasional wiz!) I don't plan to go the Artic so maybe a little less is suficient.  Any ideas?
kevin
Logged

dogboy

  • NEClimbs Moderator
  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 555
  • What?
Re: new shoes !
« Reply #1 on: January 27, 2003, 01:32:09 PM »

I've been climbing in Scarpa Alphas for two seasons, and I love them.  They are plastic, but they are made on a leather boot last, have a low cuff, and are very flexible compared to  most other plastic boots.  They are designed specifically for water ice and mixed climbing, rather than mountaineering.  While not quite as warm as a true mountaineering boot, they are much warmer than Nepal Extremes, etc...which just don't keep me warm.  I know lots of people who climb in leather boots, and love them...but the Alphas are definitely a better choice for those with colder feet.
Logged
Everybody wants to go to heaven, but no one wants to die.

kevin

  • NEClimbs Newbie
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 12
  • No matter where you go, there you are!" Buckaroo B
Re: new shoes !
« Reply #2 on: January 27, 2003, 02:11:58 PM »

dogboy, I was thinking in terms of the Alpha,s originally. I thought maybe the Nepals and Trango Ices would be lighter!  The big qualifier is WARMTH.  Also have found the Alpha,s on sale for Cheap.
kevin
Logged

Admin Al

  • NEClimbs Administrator
  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7034
  • Climb 'till your forearms turn to jelly!
    • NEClimbs
Re: new shoes !
« Reply #3 on: January 27, 2003, 06:11:00 PM »

I bought my first pair of leather boots this year. I opted for the nepal Top Extremes. yes they are pricy. they are definitely lighter than my Koflack Expe's. they are waaay smaller as well. I would say that they are easier to climb in for sure. however I think that there is a time & a place for everything. my feet stay pretty warm, so most of the time it's not a problem for me. however in this kind of cold I have had my feet get cold occasionally. I would also bet that they would tend to be cold in deep snow or if you were standing in it for long periods of time. I am very happy with them. that said, I won't get rid of my Expe's. if you can only have one pair of boots you probably should go for a good apair of plastic boots.

Al
Logged
Al Hospers
____________________________________
my music
 https://www.facebook.com/BlackMountainRamblers

web hosting, design and software programming:
 http://www.cambersoft.com

ccclimber

  • NEClimbs Junior Member
  • **
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 80
Re: new shoes !
« Reply #4 on: January 28, 2003, 02:12:34 AM »

kevin..i have the nepal extremes maily for the reason that they fit my foot...narrow / high arch..i wear them with super gators and 0° is probably the coldest they've seen and had no problem with cold feet...i'm still a believer that the most important quality is fit.
c ya
Logged
Ed

icejunky

  • Guest
Re: new shoes !
« Reply #5 on: January 28, 2003, 05:06:00 AM »

other boots you should look at are the scarpa cerro torre's, they are insulated as well and lighter than the nepal top ext. or kayland's super ice or the m10's. the super ice are super light with  a kevlar shank and a flexible plastic cover from the ankle cuff to the toe and the seams are sealed. the m10's do not have the palstic cover but they have a unique ankle locking system to prevent heel lift. I know the new retail store at the boston rock gym has the super ice but not the m10 or the cerro torre. good luck.
Logged

dogboy

  • NEClimbs Moderator
  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 555
  • What?
Re: new shoes !
« Reply #6 on: January 28, 2003, 06:26:11 AM »

As far as weight...my Alphas are considerably lighter than my Montrail Morraine leather hiking boots...the Alphas are probably at least as light as the nepals....
Logged
Everybody wants to go to heaven, but no one wants to die.

jay conway

  • Guest
Re: new shoes !
« Reply #7 on: January 28, 2003, 01:12:09 PM »

I have nepal extremes and relatively cold feet. That said my feet have frozen many times in my boots. Now if it is going to be as cold as it has been recently I leave the leathers at home and bring my plastics.
my 2 cents
jay
Logged

SherpaJim

  • NEClimbs Newbie
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 13
  • I love YaBB 1 Gold!
Re: new shoes !
« Reply #8 on: January 29, 2003, 09:24:34 AM »

I climb in both Nepal Extremes and Koflach Verticals.  As I believe Al commented, there is a time and place for each type of boot.  For vertical ice on cold days I opt for my plastics.  Much more support for front pointing and kicking into bullet proof ice.  But if you've got a mixed route, maybe a long approach, plan to do some french technique, or moderate temps, I love my leathers.  If I had to go with one boot only, I'd buy plastics.  The new plastics have improved significantly for hiking.

But I'll echo the recommendation about fit.  Too tight, you'll freeze.  Too loose and they are blister factories with poor performance.

If you do check out leathers, I strongly recommend full rands to minimize leaks.  

- Jim
Logged

kevin

  • NEClimbs Newbie
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 12
  • No matter where you go, there you are!" Buckaroo B
Re: new shoes !
« Reply #9 on: February 03, 2003, 10:54:44 AM »

 :) ;) ;D, Thanks for all the input.  I wound up getting the Alpha's.  Going to test them up at Smuglers.
kevin
Logged

dogboy

  • NEClimbs Moderator
  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 555
  • What?
Re: new shoes !
« Reply #10 on: February 04, 2003, 06:33:28 AM »

Hope you like 'em...I love mine.  Let us knoiw how it goes....
Logged
Everybody wants to go to heaven, but no one wants to die.

kevin

  • NEClimbs Newbie
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 12
  • No matter where you go, there you are!" Buckaroo B
Re: new shoes !
« Reply #11 on: February 13, 2003, 05:59:21 AM »

Didn't quite get to Smuglers, wound up at Willoughby yesterday.  A BIT COLD!  The alphas worked flawlessly.  Again thanks for all the responses. PS they also work quite well on Silvreta 500"s.
kevin
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
 

Page created in 0.137 seconds with 23 queries.