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Reverso question

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DWarriner:
I finally got talked into a Reverso and for the most part think it's pretty swell.  Once quetion however...

I was reading over the pamphlet the other day and in the section for belaying the leader I saw something that concerned me.

Their picture for belaying the leader from a belay off the ground shows the skull and cross bones if the leader hasn't placed a piece above the anchor and then falls.

So in the situation that you are x pitches off the ground and there is no pro for a while, the instructions imply you will die while using their product.  That is if the leader is heading off from the belay and doesn't get a piece in and falls, the Reverso won't work? (or if piece #1 pops before you place piece #2).

I was thinking maybe they are just implying that you shouldn't fall directly on the anchors despite what kind of belay device you are using - but that belongs more in a climbing textbook, not the instructions for their belay device.


Thoughts?

-David

dogboy:
Aren't they just implying that, in that situation, the leader will hit the ground?

DLottmann:
The picture shows it as if it was a multi-pitch, and is simply warning of a Factor 2 fal,.  Yes, this is textbook stuff, but Petzl is way into sharing textbook like stuff.  Ever check out the back of their catalog?  Filled with good infomation.  The same would go for any "tube-style" belay device, ATC or otherwise.

DWarriner:
Thanks Dave [L].

The picture seemed to imply that the Reverso would not lock in this configuration.  As improbable is that seemed to me, it would be foolish for me not to investigate further.

Anyone ever catch fall factor 2 off the anchors with a reverso?

I've never had to catch a FF2 with anything, but there have been many times I've been *hugely* relieved when the leader gets that first piece in...


-David [W]

dogboy:
Dave L is probably correct...they put all kinds of crazy info into their booklets.  They have an entire discourse on how to clip pro correctly in the pamphlet that comes with their biners...

I can't see how the Reverso would fail to work in a factor 2 fall...it is essentially just an ATC when used to belay a leader...

You and I can try it out, though, the next time you're leading, if that will put your mind at ease... ;)

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