General > Climbing Gear Q & A

M10's

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old_school:
Anyone out there a fan of the M10's by Charlet-Moser? I looked at them the other day and they looked pretty interesting. I am in the market for new crampons and was considering the Bionics, but have heard mixed reviews about them...particularly with them having a tendency to walk or slide out while dropping the heel a bit to settle into a resting position. ANy info would be great! Thanks.

Admin Al:
I've been using M10's for the past 2 years as my main crampon. they were set up as mono points, a little offset to be over the big toe. I really liked them. I just upgraded to the latest version about a week ago as an Xmas present to myself. they come set up as dual points & so far I have left them that way. I've climbed Pegasus, Smear, Unicorn and lots of laps at the North End with them. they are a little lighter than the original ones & have a different strap system.

they seem to climb just fine to me. I was quite surprised at how comfortable I feel with dual points again. I started climbing with mono points about 9 years ago on a pair of Grade 8's. I love the mono point thing but have noticed that some of the better climbers have now gone back to duals except on the harder mixed routes. I noticed that they were nice on a route like Unicorn where the ice is quite fluted and where with mono points I would have had a hard time getting points in.

--al

DLottmann:
I climb in M10 Mono-offset, and tried switching back to dual's last year.  For Frankenstein cragging I think mono's rock.  Pegasus Rock Finish, Hobbit, Penguin P2, Hanging Gardens, mono's have all come in use.  I feel more precise with the 1 point.  Actually, I think "mono" is a bit of a mis-nomer.  Since you should kick hard enough to get the secondary points engaged, dual point crampons are actually "quad" and mono's are "tri-point" if that doesn't confuse you.

old_school:
Thanks Al and DMAn,

I currently climb with my Foot Fangs...yah...about 15 years old and that is all I know. When I started, I had a used pair of Messner Scissors, so when I splurged and got the Fangs, I thought that I had died and gone to heaven. I don't see too many people out there using the Fangs these days.....hhmmmmm...

I would love to try the mono (or tri) points and see how I like them. They just look like they would be very efficient and more positive on steep and bulletproof ice? They are not giving these crampons away though...

What would be the most noticable change in climbing if I were to try the Mono/tri thing??

PS- I did notice your other reply to the thread on new crampons Al, and I do agree with you...if you don't have the skills or the head, crampons are going to help much....but that said...the new technology doesn't suck!  ;D

Grammy

old_school:
HAve either of you guys ever test driven the Grivel G14's? I looked at the Rambos years ago and they look like they are just a more rigid version of the G14....true? These G14's look like a good compromise between semi-rigid and rigid crampons with the option to go dual or mono.

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