Author Topic: Moody Aunt Ruby (WI 6 R/X, 110M) - Lake Willoughby  (Read 919 times)

Offline Admin Al

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Moody Aunt Ruby (WI 6 R/X, 110M) - Lake Willoughby
« on: December 13, 2005, 09:42:18 PM »
This just in from the amazing Will Mayo:

Across the Lake on Mt. Hor, Joe Szot, Ian Boyer and I climbed the ethereal yellow icicles that hang from those compact limestone cliffs today, 12/13/2005, naming the route Moody Aunt Ruby (WI 6 R/X, 110M).  Because of its conspicuous location across the Lake and its stunning fang-like icicles, the unclimbed line had been perhaps the most looked-at route at Lake Willoughby.  I have never been able to prevent myself from scruitinizing it each time I have arrived at Lake Willoughby over the many years that I have been enchanted by the place.  Now it has been climbed and it exceeded my expectations entirely.  Arriving at the base of the cliff with the temperature not much above zero and racking up above the southward rolling fog along the surface of the open waters below after having traversed the entire south end of the Lake, I realized that I had left the rock rack in the Flying Brick (my van).  I asked the boys with a straight face, "Okay, who's got the rock rack?"  But, they knew the mistake was mine.  My punishment was to lead the thing with only ice gear, which made things rather run-out.  The first 60M pitch was the crux and involves a hollow vertical column of ice to a ramp to attain the golden double-tiered free-hanging icicles that hang above.  These daggers of ice were the cruxes and required launching up gymnastically onto the hangers with gear well below.  Joe Szot climbed the 50M WI 5 second pitch up mushroomed ice to a tier of free-standing columns and reached the trees.  Moody Aunt Ruby was climbed on-sight in "ground up" style and was yet another in a string of phenomenally exciting days of ice climbing with close friends.  Moody Aunt Ruby is definitely one of the most exciting ice climbs I have ever done.
Al Hospers
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Offline mopowers

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Re: Moody Aunt Ruby (WI 6 R/X, 110M) - Lake Willoughby
« Reply #1 on: December 14, 2005, 04:58:50 PM »
  quoted form the Ice Climbers Guide to New England.
    "There are other possibilities on Mount Hor including a steep route by Kurt Winkler between Woober Goober Gully and the Boissonneault-Cattabriga Route and a three pitch grade 4+ by Barry Blanchard. One of these routes reportedly climbs a very steep yellow icicle."
  Could Moody Aunt Ruby be the same "very steep yellow icicle" climbed by one of these two. Regardless very good job guys.
  I wonder if there is anything Will can not climb?
« Last Edit: December 14, 2005, 05:14:41 PM by mopowers »


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Re: Moody Aunt Ruby (WI 6 R/X, 110M) - Lake Willoughby
« Reply #2 on: December 15, 2005, 07:25:02 PM »
I read that in the guide yesterday too; whoops!  Barry Blanchard is the MAN!  So is Kurt Winkler!  I can't imagine this thing being grade 4+; but, who knows . . . if it were in really fat . . . and, let's not forget the Bubba factor.  Maybe it is the same route; there has been some major rockfall in the area which may have changed things.  There is some yellow ice that's more mellow to the right.  I don't know.  Best to give the FA to Kurt or Bubba (as if it matters); but, 4+ it sure ain't (at the moment, anyway). Whatever.  I'm just glad to have done this very cool route finally.  It comes highly recommended so get up there and get after it if you're psyched.  It's so much fun!!! 

KK and I did BULLWINKLE today!  WOO HOO!  After all these years, I have finally done that magnificent column.  What a rush!  The Lake's GOING OFF right now!  Get amongst people!


PS:  BTW, there is so very much that I can't climb - so very much!  But, thanks for the compliment; you're very kind!  Thanks!