Author Topic: Work Of The Devil (M7+/Man-2)  (Read 8455 times)

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Work Of The Devil (M7+/Man-2)
« Reply #90 on: February 24, 2006, 09:08:22 am »
hey David... not a good idea, unless you are absolutely certain. & I'm not sure that you are! tho the pix doesn't say who it is. what that just a "being cute"? perhaps you owe punx an apology!

--al
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Offline DWarriner

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Re: Work Of The Devil (M7+/Man-2)
« Reply #91 on: February 24, 2006, 11:43:44 am »
Offending note has been removed.

Sorry guys - it was an attempt at a joke - obviously failed.

I thought would be funny if eastcoast was climbing rock with crampons, but I sullied pux's good name in the process.

Once again, many appologies.

-David
There are no stupid questions - only stupid answers.

Offline punxnotdead

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Re: Work Of The Devil (M7+/Man-2)
« Reply #92 on: February 24, 2006, 12:36:30 pm »
Apology accepted......

The climb is called Screaming, it is at Frankenstein.  And for all you out there who dont like mixed climbing....The route was originally established as a mixed climb.....Not that I would care anyways.  LOL
someone dropped a steamer in the gene pool

"climbing with a deep knowledge of what we are doing is what we all want to climb high and safe" Champoing

Offline Dave

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Re: Work Of The Devil (M7+/Man-2)
« Reply #93 on: February 24, 2006, 12:46:29 pm »
punxnotdead, Where is the route and what is the grade? It looks cool. While others are crying on the net I think I will go scratch up some rock! Dave R  ;)

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Work Of The Devil (M7+/Man-2)
« Reply #94 on: February 24, 2006, 01:07:35 pm »
now that's what I like...

  Peace, In Our Time

<grin>

I agree with Dave, where's the route?

--al
Al Hospers
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Offline punxnotdead

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Re: Work Of The Devil (M7+/Man-2)
« Reply #95 on: February 24, 2006, 04:16:43 pm »
Maybe we should start a new topic:  Awesome Mixed climbing and the Awesome climbers climbing them..

LOL

The route is just to the left of the ramp start to Banshee.  The corner crack.... Very good pro with the crux at the top it goes at M5. 

BTW--- I scratched the crap out of it  ;D
someone dropped a steamer in the gene pool

"climbing with a deep knowledge of what we are doing is what we all want to climb high and safe" Champoing

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Work Of The Devil (M7+/Man-2)
« Reply #96 on: February 24, 2006, 04:19:20 pm »
Maybe we should start a new topic:  Awesome Mixed climbing and the Awesome climbers climbing them..

well... while we COULD start the topic, I'm not sure that any of this crowd would qualify to be IN it tho.

<grin>

--al
Al Hospers
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Offline Admin Al

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Re: Work Of The Devil (M7+/Man-2)
« Reply #97 on: February 24, 2006, 04:21:05 pm »
so Punx, was the pin still there?

--al
Al Hospers
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Offline punxnotdead

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Re: Work Of The Devil (M7+/Man-2)
« Reply #98 on: February 24, 2006, 04:34:07 pm »
no
someone dropped a steamer in the gene pool

"climbing with a deep knowledge of what we are doing is what we all want to climb high and safe" Champoing

Offline Eric McCallister

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Re: Work Of The Devil (M7+/Man-2)
« Reply #99 on: February 25, 2006, 07:16:08 pm »
So, has anyone here actually gotten on Work of the Devil? Been out of town in WY climbing and not up north for a couple of weeks. Just curious...

Offline Jim_Ewing

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Re: Work Of The Devil (M7+/Man-2)
« Reply #100 on: February 27, 2006, 11:47:29 am »
Those who oppose the existence of this route should not bother reading this post.  It has nothing to do with the ethical debate over the route and may in fact cause you physical or mental harm.

just a few thoughts because i'm bored...  this debate exists because Jim(or someone who Jim told) felt it necessary to publish his ascent in an opinionated, argumentitive forum... Now the sport-o's are up in arms, the traditionalists are spewing ethics and others are just debating because they have nothing better to do.... Here's a novel idea:  climb for yourself.... share your excitement with your friends, and leave it at that.  As long you are not permenantly changing the environment in a way that negatively effects the experiences of future climbers you should just do whatever keeps you happy and sane.  Enjoy what fun NH has to offer... Kevin 

Kevin, this debate exists because differing opinions exist.  This forum is merely the venue.  Many of us don,t have the luxury of hanging out at IME or local bars to have such discussions.  The various factions are indeed ‘up in arms,, so what?

I did not post the route nor did anyone I told about the route.  Al was there and Eric was there.  I didn,t have to tell them.  I am not so full of myself or pretence that I have to feign humility and ask them not to tell anyone.  Al is a webmaster, posting this sort of thing is one of the main purposes of this site.  Eric is a professional photographer.  What kind of friend would I be to deny them their chosen pursuits?

 Climb for yourself you say.  I am not a sponsored climber, never have been and never will be.  I pay for my own trips and buy my own gear (for the most part).  I,ve been climbing for nearly 30 years.  I have a family that I miss when I'm away.  I have a full time job.  I,m lucky if I get to climb 80 days a year.  So who exactly do you suppose I,m climbing for?

Jim, How did the crux hold grow from 1/8" to 1 1/2"??? and that first stein pull got a lot more secure didn't it?  Will Gadd posed the coan on his website "If one hammer blow is cleaning, how many is chipping".... but that's in limestone not granite.  All of the moves had been done clean the weekend before your send without this enhancement.  ....................Kevin 

Kevin, I had climbed all the sections of the roof  clean (whatever that means) several times before anyone else ever got on it.  Why then would I need to enhance any holds?  The stein pull may indeed be more secure, however, it was plenty secure before.  It has ripped out once already and will most likely do so again.  I didn,t rip it out the first time.  My understanding is that some locals who got on it soon after I placed the bolts broke it.  The rest of the stein pull story is this: I heard of the demise of the stein pull and was also told that another one had been found.  When I returned to the route post breakage I went up to examine the broken hold and find the other one.   I noticed the broken hold had many small fractured bits of rock inside the crack and subsequently removed them and found I was still able to use it.  The other hold you mentioned I have no knowledge of, in fact I don,t know which hold you are talking about.  What I do know, and others can verify, is that no holds were enhanced for the send.

I don,t believe in hogging projects or ownership of routes but I do believe in the common courtesy of asking the person that put in all the effort cleaning and bolt placing minds others getting on it.  I think most people would agree this is a reasonable view.  How then would anyone other than my partners or myself know anything about any holds on the route?

Here,s a simple Koan for you in two different forms.  One form is a simple sentence and the other is a poem.  This Koan is not by me.  It is called  Preaching From the Third Seat .

When he opens his mouth he is lost. When he seals his mouth he is lost. If he does not open it, if he does not seal it, he is 108,000 miles from the truth.

In the light of day,
Yet in a dream he talks of a dream.
A monster among monsters,
He intended to deceive the whole crowd.

« Last Edit: February 27, 2006, 08:48:14 pm by Jim_Ewing »

Offline Dave

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Re: Work Of The Devil (M7+/Man-2)
« Reply #101 on: February 27, 2006, 12:13:17 pm »
Jim, The author of a local guide once told me after I added a bolt to a route with the permission of the first ascent party and took alot of shit for it. "people will bitch and moan no matter what you do so just ignore them."
Dave
I wish I was good enough to give "Work of the Devil" a shot! It looks way cool!
While others are crying I think I will go climb.
« Last Edit: February 28, 2006, 09:41:37 am by Dave »

Offline rockytop

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Re: Work Of The Devil (M7+/Man-2)
« Reply #102 on: March 10, 2006, 04:37:39 pm »
 :D The nice thing about a lot of these safe, new, bolted, mixed routes is that you really don't have to be a hardman climber to give them a shot...probably the worst thing that can happen is you'll leave a $4 biner behind - cheaper than a movie.
Unless of course, your leashless tool gets stuck in a crack when you fall and you're too pumped to get back up and get it. :)  Jim will give it back hopefully.