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Author Topic: Ice Screws  (Read 237 times)

Walt

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Ice Screws
« on: August 17, 2001, 06:01:24 AM »

I've done alot of TR on ice and I'm currently building a lead rack. I've picked up a couple of BD express screws and love the "coffee grinder" knob. I see that Omega has a fairly new screw out with "the knob". Anyone have any input on these screws ? I realize that the Omega knob doesn't fold out of the way. Is this a  problem ? In other words, is the fold away knob worth the extra $22.00  :o  Thanks......
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RatBoy

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Re: Ice Screws
« Reply #1 on: August 17, 2001, 07:53:00 PM »

Havent used em...but the limiting factor might not be the troublesome nonfolding knob, but the quality of the screw itself (isnt that always the case...).  I would pay an extra $22 for an ice screw that went in great and stayed sharp.
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Re: Ice Screws
« Reply #2 on: August 19, 2001, 05:02:23 PM »

I try other screws but keep coming back to BD. they seem to hold their sharpness better than any of the others for me. I bought a couple of Grivel's a few years ago but they didn't hold up. and I do like the folding handle on the Express. they don't get caught on my clothes or anything. I'd be worried about having the handle hook on something while I'm pumped & trying to get them off my harness. not my idea of fun!
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Al Hospers
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dogboy

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Re: Ice Screws
« Reply #3 on: August 21, 2001, 04:26:40 PM »

I actually have used both Grivels and BDs, and I like the Grivels.  The handle on the Grivels floats over irregularities very nicely, and the screws stayed sharp...again, another matter of personal preference.
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SherpaJim

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Re: Ice Screws
« Reply #4 on: August 30, 2001, 02:28:31 PM »

About half my screws are Smiley's (now Omega's) and the other half are BD.  I prefer the BD's because they seem to stay sharp longer, but I can't complain about the quality of my Smiley/Omega's.  Most of Smiley's designs are spittin' images of BD (wonder if it's because Smiley's was created by ex-BD employees?)

I do not, however like the coffee grinder knobs on the Smileys.  The quality of the metal is really poor... it's cast and I've broken three of them off during moderate use.  Additionally, the set screw in the bottom of the knob tends to loosen over time, fall out and then the knob falls off.  Usually when you are in deep snow or 80' off the deck.  Lastly, with the knob sticking up like that it gets in the way of using your tool hammer or even the palm of your hand to hit the hanger.    

The BD Express knobs are all high quality and tuck out of the way.  The new ones are color coded for the length of screw.  All my 17 cm screws are now Express.  My 22 cm (used just for belay anchors) and stubbies are just plain screws.  

BTW... I had a partner from France and he used the Charlet Moser Laser screws (no knobs) and the CM crank (Turbine?) that he wore on a lanyard around his neck.  He could drive a screw home with that crank much faster than I could with a BD express, especially in hard ice.  More leverage.  An interesting alternative.

- Jim
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Admin Al

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Re: Ice Screws
« Reply #5 on: August 31, 2001, 12:36:23 PM »

Jim wrote:

>>
I had a partner from France and he used the Charlet Moser Laser screws (no knobs) and the CM crank (Turbine?) that he wore on a lanyard around his neck.  He could drive a screw home with that crank much faster than I could with a BD express, especially in hard ice.  More leverage.  
<<

my old ice partner, Yuki Fujita, uses one of these all the time. he is a little short guy & finds that it does give him a lot of leverage & he can get them buried to the hilt very quickly.

Al
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Al Hospers
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Dan_Kilburn

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Re: Ice Screws
« Reply #6 on: December 25, 2002, 01:02:30 PM »

I've used both BD's and Smiley's.  I've found that the Smiley's are not as hard as the BD's.  The threads, over time, get dinged up.  So, even though I kept them sharp, after a while they tended to screw in harder than the BD's after the same amount of (or even more) use.  Hanging from one tired arm, a little hard to turn is a big deal.  Especially when you really really want to get that rope clipped.

Generally, you get what you pay for.  There's a reason BD's cost more.

My two cents,

Dan
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Re: Ice Screws
« Reply #7 on: December 31, 2002, 09:14:54 AM »

this time of year just look at what's on the wall at your local climbing emporium. they usually stock what people are buying. I see more BD stuff than anything else. it's sharp, stays sharp & racks well. I personally just don't see any reason to use anything else.

Al
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Al Hospers
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dkdanger

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Re: Ice Screws
« Reply #8 on: December 31, 2002, 02:24:14 PM »

All I would add is that the condition of the screws is paramount. I have a range of brands of screws and the ease of use directly coresponds to the sharpness and lack of corrosion. I don't mind the smileys knob. I made it stop loosening by giving the nut a squeeze with pliers ( the nut that holds the knob on the screw, that is). The worst time I've had with a screw this year happened to be a BD that was pretty crusty. I'd say if money is no object, hire some dope to put the smiley screws in for you.
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