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Author Topic: screamers  (Read 321 times)

GRH

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screamers
« on: February 07, 2006, 02:59:55 PM »

What exactly is a screamer?  Is it just a beefed up quickdraw with some play built into the sling? (shock absorber or give).  What percentage do people use screamers over quickdraws?
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Jeff

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Re: screamers
« Reply #1 on: February 07, 2006, 05:05:30 PM »

Screamers are shock absorbers which self destruct-- They are stitched inside a sheath in such a way that the stitching fails at a certain shock load (quite low) and they extend thus absorbing some of the force and reducing the shock load on marginal rock or ice protection. Some ice climbers use lots of them, others of us put them on screws which we REALLY don't like but which we hope are better than no pro at all. On rock they're useful on poor aid pieces. The first ones I used were John Bouchard's Air Voyagers which are no longer available, as it was found that their stitching pattern could increase "gate flutter" and could result in biners breaking. I can attest to one of them operating correctly and probably saving me from ground fall and serious injury when I dropped my 200 lbs about 10 feet on a very small RP- an Air Voyager completely deployed and the piece caught me!  :P :D Jeff L.
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: screamers
« Reply #2 on: February 07, 2006, 05:08:13 PM »

A screamer is a good thing, makes you feel like a hero even if you arn,t ;D
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Re: screamers
« Reply #3 on: February 08, 2006, 11:20:15 PM »

the one fall I have taken on ice was a 20 footer on Way In The WIlderness. it was caught by a screamer and a 22cm screw. it was a clean fall, the gear worked and I was a happy guy. I don't think the screw would have held without the screamer!

--al
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scottie_c

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Re: screamers
« Reply #4 on: February 28, 2006, 01:24:04 PM »

while screamers increase the margin of safety, I'd advocate placing a screw starts by finding a good piece of well consolidated, well bonded ice.  use concave (rather than convex) sections of ice near the bottom of a vertical section ice for the placement location. chip off any rotten surface ice. then place the screw at an appropriate angle.

the one fall I've taken was probably 30 ft onto a 12cm screw with no screamer.  after the fall, the screw looked exactly as it did prior to the fall.

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DWarriner

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Re: screamers
« Reply #5 on: February 28, 2006, 02:22:52 PM »

They're kind of like car bumbers, the get destroyed, but expend energy in the process thus protecting the "occupants."

As for the gate flutter thing.  I've never heard of this happening with people I know using screamers.  That said, if it is a big concern, use wire gate biners, which have less gate mass and are less likely to move around with the stitching breaking.

Also, since the stiching breaks at much lower levels than the typical 6-8 Kn of an open biner, the main vibrations while the gate is potentially open are being absorbed by the stitching.  What does the stitching break on a regular screamer - like 2 Kn?

-David
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: screamers
« Reply #6 on: February 28, 2006, 05:52:44 PM »

Scott has a verey good point. You can't use the screamer as a crutch for placeing bad gear. A well placed screw in solid ice most likly does not need a screamer unless it is the first placement after a hanging belay with hard climbing over that placement. That being said you can't allways count on the quality of the ice!! If you are climbing at or near your limit and your screws hit air pockets or the ice is baked or whatever, it seriously helps your head to slap a screamer on it!!  I have many times placed 2 screws and clipped one to each rope with a screamer and still felt that my gear was suspect! With no screamers I would have been scared out of my skin!! If it helps your head you will be less likly to fall and therefore they are worth the extra weight INMOP 8)
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