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Author Topic: El Potrero Chico 2006 Update  (Read 90 times)

Gunkswest

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El Potrero Chico 2006 Update
« on: February 21, 2006, 09:28:08 AM »

Just got back from another week at the Potrero. Saw at least a dozen people from the NY/Philly area and one from the Mt Washington Valley. Also saw folks from as far away as Sweden that were there to climb.

Stayed again at La Posada http://www.elpotrerochico.com.mx which is still allowing camping for $5/night and rooms for $25/night. They now have Internet access as well as an Internet phone (service is a bit spotty). The Internet can be reached via their laptop or you can bring your own and get the password to log into their router. It's generally a pretty quick DSL type connection.

Tami is still running her cafe/gift shop next to the Posada. She has fresh real coffee in the morning, does a good quesadilla, and always has something to report! She still sells T-shirts and Mexican folk art. She and Magic Ed did an updated edition to their climbing guide (orange cover this year) that has some good new routes in it.

One of the better new routes is called Voodoo Trance and was done by Magic Ed and others. You climb the first three pitches of Jungle Mountaineering (older school 5.9) then scamper up and left on a terrace to the back of the bowl that is left of Yankee Clipper. Voodoo Trance starts on this terrace and climbs great rock up about six pitches. The ratings are roughly: 9, 9, 10d, 11b (or 10c), 9, 9. Just left is a rather ugly new route - Jungle Fever (9, 10a). Also lots of new one pitch sport routes of all grades all over the place.

Rumor has it that Dane Bass is working on a more comprehensive guidebook to the area. If the rumor is true, no idea when it would be out.

The general agreement is that climbing visitation is rather flat. The season didn't really seem to start until mid-December this year whereas in previous years climbers were arriving in mid-November. It was reportedly VERY busy over the Xmas/New Years break.

There is a guide service operating out of the Posada and also at least one guide from the Gunks was operating with clients in the area.

Checos and the Posada were not serving food on Monday night and luckily Tami was around and had frozen calzones and pizza to tide us over. Homeros still serves a great breakfast ($2.80 for eggs, bacon, beans).

There are now gigantic floodlights up in the narrowest part of the canyon. These are on Friday and Saturday evenings and really illuminate the cliffs. It's quite spectacular (night climbing anyone?).

Still a fun place to climb and a good friendly scene.
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