Author Topic: The Black Dike  (Read 90 times)

Offline df

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The Black Dike
« on: February 18, 2003, 10:45:25 AM »
My buddy and I were going to make our first attempt on  the Dike and were wondering if anyone had any advice for our first attempt, especially on the rock gear.  Is it completely ice right now or what?  Thank you for any input.

Seth

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Re: The Black Dike
« Reply #1 on: February 18, 2003, 10:54:35 AM »
P1 is pretty easy.  About 2+/3- (200') depending on which way you go.  There is decent ice there right now so you can get good gear. Make an ice belay down and right of the pin belay.

P2 is an ice runnel for 24-30'  It's not quite vertical, but you better be real solid on WI4 since there's no gear (except for a slung horn) until you clear the top of the runnel(it's about 2-3" thick right now).  It's also pretty hacked (right now) so you have to do some mandatory hooking to finish out the runnel.  From there the ice thickens and there is about 20-30' of grade 3/3+ until the second runnel which is about 20' in a chimney.  It provides easy stemming the whole way and solid gear.  After that is a short section of about WI3 to the belay on the left.  
P3  is really long - 61 meters - if you go via the left finish.  It's about WI 3 - 4- depending on whether you choose the steepest line or not.  It finishes on about 40' of turf.  

Summary : Be solid on WI 4 (thin).

Offline df

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Re: The Black Dike
« Reply #2 on: February 18, 2003, 11:06:35 AM »
Thank you.