Author Topic: Left ice screws on standard on Feb 9th  (Read 857 times)

Offline buzdelabuz2

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Left ice screws on standard on Feb 9th
« on: March 13, 2006, 09:46:53 AM »
Hi,

I just learned about this forum over the weekend, so I thought I would give a belated try for

2 ice screws, a sling and an Omega locking beaner (green locking gate) I left on the right wall of standard before getting to the cave, ON FEBRURAY 9TH 2006.

One screw was a "red" BD, and the other a "blue", if I recall.

Let me know if anybody found those. I would be happy to send a token of appreciation to the person who would return them.

Thanks for your time.

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Left ice screws on standard on Feb 9th
« Reply #1 on: March 13, 2006, 10:01:28 AM »
Why was the gear left?

Offline buzdelabuz2

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Re: Left ice screws on standard on Feb 9th
« Reply #2 on: March 13, 2006, 10:21:55 AM »
You don't want to know....  :-[ Beginners mistake. We did better this weekend though.

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Left ice screws on standard on Feb 9th
« Reply #3 on: March 13, 2006, 10:45:38 AM »
Oh but I do want to know ;D Its Ok to have beginners mistakes as long as you don't get hurt!! If you leave gear behind due to those mistakes it becomes BOOTY gear and may only be returned at the finders discression and after much groveling on your part. Contributions of malt bevrages to the finders are recomended ;) Learn how to make V threads and practice the skill. It will save you much face and $$$$  Cheers. Nick

Offline buzdelabuz2

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Re: Left ice screws on standard on Feb 9th
« Reply #4 on: March 13, 2006, 11:11:58 AM »
I totally agree with you, and I was totally fine with the 100$+ price tag for the lesson I had just learned. Actually, I was surprised to learn that was a forum for stuff you had lost, because I tought this was out of the question -- you lost it, that's all there is to it. But when I found out, I thought I would give it a try. That's why I offered something in return.  :D

The worst thing is that I knew how to make a V thread, but I didn't have a V thread tool that day, the store was out when I stopped by to buy one that day. Later this season, I learned to V thread a rope without the V tool, using a thin sling. That trick I could have used, but I didn't know yet ...

Like I said in the first posting, we did much better this weekend though. So that's good!  :D


Offline buzdelabuz2

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Re: Left ice screws on standard on Feb 9th
« Reply #5 on: March 13, 2006, 11:32:07 AM »
I forgot ...
I will offer a 12 pack of any beer (even a 24/36 pack if Bud is the choice) to who wants to return the stuff!
 ;D

Offline redpoint73

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Re: Left ice screws on standard on Feb 9th
« Reply #6 on: March 13, 2006, 12:30:34 PM »
Ohhh, you really do need to tell us how it happened.  We are all dying to hear!

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Left ice screws on standard on Feb 9th
« Reply #7 on: March 13, 2006, 12:48:54 PM »
make your V thread tool from a coat hanger. carry 2 on diferent biners :)

Tomcat

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Re: Left ice screws on standard on Feb 9th
« Reply #8 on: March 13, 2006, 01:52:16 PM »
Or go around and rappel the route to get your stuff back.Trads a good fellow and will, I suspect return your screws.That said I would attempt to ply him with a really good single barrel bourbon.  ;)

Tom

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Left ice screws on standard on Feb 9th
« Reply #9 on: March 13, 2006, 02:08:25 PM »
I don't have them but Tomcat has another good point. Hike arround and you should be able to rap tree to tree and get all the way down the right side of standard?

Offline buzdelabuz2

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Re: Left ice screws on standard on Feb 9th
« Reply #10 on: March 13, 2006, 03:01:15 PM »
I will make note of all these good advices. With practice, I can remember them when I need them, and not 2 days after!!  :D
Thanks again!

DLottmann

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Re: Left ice screws on standard on Feb 9th
« Reply #11 on: March 13, 2006, 03:37:45 PM »
...I learned to V thread a rope without the V tool, using a thin sling...

You still need a V tool to catch the sling and pull it through the other screw hole... I've never been able to or seen anyone thread without using one.  Also, placing a rope directly through the hole (very difficult given how thick the rope in comparison to the holes), could end up in a stuck/frozen rope.

Offline buzdelabuz2

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Re: Left ice screws on standard on Feb 9th
« Reply #12 on: March 13, 2006, 04:09:03 PM »
Actually, it isn't the main rope, more like a piece of cordelette , 5/7mm.

A guide showed it to me. You place a small loop made with the end of a 1/4in sling at the end of the V, and on the other side, push the rope into the loop. Then yank the sling pretty hard, and like magic, the rope gets pulled 1/2 way through the other side. Then twist and push the small rope and quite surprisingly, it makes its way through the remaining part of the V.

He pulled the whole thing and had me do it a couple of times. Sometimes it takes many trial, but when the sling "bites", it actually works...
All without the tool...