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Author Topic: rack for huntington climbs  (Read 155 times)

carpenters climber

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rack for huntington climbs
« on: April 04, 2006, 08:18:39 PM »

Hey everyone, I'm doing my first leads later this week in Hunts on Yale and Pinnacle. I was looking for suggestions on what to have on my rack for pro. such as how many screws and what size, what size wedges or hexes , and the same for cams. Thanks for the help
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Tomcat

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Re: rack for huntington climbs
« Reply #1 on: April 04, 2006, 08:40:30 PM »

I usually take six screws for Pinnacle.One 22 as a belay at the start, three 17's on the pitch and two for a belay at the end of pitch one. Sometimes there is rock gear in place on the left, but if the ice is fat late season it can be covered.Depending on your comfort with moving together you can do the whole rest of the climb moving together with those screws spread between you on the occasional ice bulge.

I do take a little rock gear for most routes up there,it's light and fast to place and retrieve,and cheap if you bail.People seldom bail for difficulty,more often cold or too many people above you. The rock is typically alpine with good cracks for stoppers,you can take small cams but I would not bother with large ones. I carry a couple pins too.Don't take quickdraws,take over the shoulder length slings.

If you are not comfortable on steep snow you may want deadmen or pickets, but I'm pretty sally and have never wanted them.

Get there early. Put your harness on before you get to the base of the climb.No fun hopping around on one foot at the base of pinnacle.If there are many people ahead of you do a different climb.

Have fun. Good luck.

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giggy

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Re: rack for huntington climbs
« Reply #2 on: April 05, 2006, 09:20:48 AM »

just stating the obvoius here - but they are not forecasting for ava there (hunts) anymore and they got a decent amount of snow - ravine's (tuck) today are pretty unstable.  I was hoping to get in there on sat - hopefully it should be ok by then.   I was there on sunday and its was a nice hard pack - with this new snow, my guess is stuff will sliding today, , etc..

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