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Author Topic: New climber, where to go next?  (Read 259 times)

Tramper_Al

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New climber, where to go next?
« on: April 16, 2006, 07:47:04 PM »

Hi,

So, I am quite the novice climber, enjoying AMC Boston chapter's excellent Rocks Program this spring.  I guess I am on a 'traditional' track, learning with top rope activities, then going on to second etc.  The course is good too for making contacts for future trips.

I wonder, though, if I am different from many new climbers in terms of where I want to go next.  In my lives as hiker, BC XC skier, canoe tripper, I have always wanted to get out there and apply my new found skills in some interesting corner of New England. 

So, while I could continue to concentrate on honing my skills at the Quarry every weekend, going from 5.6 to 5.7 to 5.8 and so on, I think I'd actually rather go someplace like Acadia or Baxter in beautiful surroundings and just do some straightforward top roping.  Is that too boring for most climbers, even if it's in a really cool place?

Anyway, it seems like many or most of my fellow newbies are aiming to focus mainly on improving their skills close to home.  Am I likely to find others out there who will want to travel a bit for some easy climbing in some of New England's more interesting locales?

Thanks in advance . . .
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Re: New climber, where to go next?
« Reply #1 on: April 16, 2006, 10:23:44 PM »

lots of folks in the same position as you. post a message in the Partner Exchange section on this site & you will likely hook up with others who are looking for the same adventure as you. Acadia has some great toprope areas, as does North Conway for that matter.   or if you ware looking to ramp up our skills you might consider some guided instruction. that said I know the AMC Rock Program intimately and thin it's a great way to learn the ropes, so to speak, get your skills together and meet other climbers. be sure to go on the Gunks New Seconds Weekend. I've done that many times in the past & it's great. along those lines, please say hello to Richard Doucette, Tom Boydsden & the crew for me. they are great folks & have a lot to offer.

Al
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agoodnap

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Re: New climber, where to go next?
« Reply #2 on: April 17, 2006, 05:14:42 PM »

I am in the same boat and excited to check out new spots and find climbs I want to work towards.  Pawtuckaway is my next climb, looks like a variety of climbs with a number of moderate routes I have been told are fun.  Then off to Acadia.  I keep seeing pics of Otter Cliffs and it's calling me.  So as long as I have people with me to shope me the ropes ;)  it'll be all good.  If you're interested in meeting some other newbies looking to get out and head elsewhere drop a line!

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redpoint73

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Re: New climber, where to go next?
« Reply #3 on: May 03, 2006, 02:17:10 PM »


Anyway, it seems like many or most of my fellow newbies are aiming to focus mainly on improving their skills close to home.  Am I likely to find others out there who will want to travel a bit for some easy climbing in some of New England's more interesting locales?

Thanks in advance . . .

Ask around, and you should have no problem finding people who want get away from the city to climb.  Actually, I would highly recommend it.  The rock is much better, and you can get away from the highway noise, grafitti, and loose rock at the Quincy Quarries.  While not exactly a beginner (ok, not even close - I've been climbing for 11 years), I don't ever stick around Boston to climb unless I only have a half a day on the weekend, or go after work during the week.

In fact, I would suggest getting away from the 'climb around Boston' tribes entirely.  They are usually people that are too lazy, or have too many "obligations" to drive up north.  They usually stare at you in shock and horror if you tell them you want to drive more than an hour to climb.  Stick with them, and I can almost guarentee you will never leave Mass.

Check out Pawtackaway NH and Lincoln Woods, RI for some excellent bouldering.  Pawtuckaway also has some decent toprope opportunities.  Good TR routes can also be found at Cathedral, and Acadia is lots of fun.  Once you are ready to lead sport, Rumney is the place to go.  Persuade an experienced trad climber to take you up Cathedral and Whitehorse, or even Cannon. 



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Dave

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Re: New climber, where to go next?
« Reply #4 on: May 03, 2006, 03:20:47 PM »

Redpoint is mostly right. The Quincy quaries = POS. Might be fun if someone bolted the hell out of it! Certainly can't complain about bolts being an eyesore there. There are a few good areas in Mass. but you must drive a bit. Crow Hill for example, Great trad leading and topropeing, very stiff old school grades. 60 miles from boston.  Very historic area. Read Watermans book, Yankee Rock And Ice. Great history of climbing in the N.E. and how it affected climbing around the country. Dave
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Woody48

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Re: New climber, where to go next?
« Reply #5 on: May 06, 2006, 01:57:42 AM »

Tramper Al,

Dave makes a great point.  Crow Hill is a nice place to climb without the three hour drive up to North Conway.  There's a pretty good after work crowd there as well.  The views from the top towards Boston aren't bad either.

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Tramper_Al

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Re: New climber, what to do next?
« Reply #6 on: May 08, 2006, 12:09:34 PM »

Hi,
Thanks for all the good suggestions.
In fact I was at Crow Hill this weekend.  I was enjoying it quite a bit (on TR) until a very experienced climber in our group took a bad fall while leading.
Well, now more than ever I am leaning toward easier (top roped) climbing in interesting locations.
And hoping for a full and speedy recovery for our colleague.
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DLottmann

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Re: New climber, where to go next?
« Reply #7 on: May 08, 2006, 12:53:05 PM »

Good TR routes can also be found at Cathedral, and Acadia is lots of fun. 

I disagree Cathedral has good top-roping.  The only section of the cliff that lends itself to top-roping is The North End.  You must either lead a 5.6, Child's Play, or scramble up a somewhat dangerous access trail to set up top-ropes on the harder climbs, which, for the most part, all the bolted anchors that used to be availble to TR from, have been removed or damaged to the point of being unsafe.

Better areas to TR in the Whites would be Lost Horizon at Sundown Ledge, Echo Crag in Franconia (need someone who can lead 5.7 trad), Jockey's Cap in Fryeburg, Maine (easy top access to bolted anchors, watch for broken glass).
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Dave

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Re: New climber, where to go next?
« Reply #8 on: May 09, 2006, 08:32:51 AM »

Al, What route was your friend on when he fell? Hope he has a speedy recovery. Dave

For those who have not climbed there the routes at Crow Hill are very stiff for the grade and many are difficult to protect if you are not very solid at the grade. Many are also very pumpy.
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Tramper_Al

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Re: New climber, where to go next?
« Reply #9 on: May 09, 2006, 09:28:46 AM »

Al, What route was your friend on when he fell? Hope he has a speedy recovery. Dave
Hey Dave,
I'm sure he appreciates your good thoughts. 
I don't have my Boston Rocks handy, but he was leading a route on the second pitch in the area that I believe is called the "Main Face".
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gags

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Re: New climber, where to go next?
« Reply #10 on: September 10, 2006, 12:28:29 PM »

Rumney might not be the best place to set up topropes, but if you go there on the weekend there will be plenty of people there that would set one up for you or let you toprope on their ropes.  When someone is cleaning a route, ask them if they would mind hauling your rope up and putting it through the quick clips.  It is easy and not too much to ask of another climber.  some might not be comfortable with it though.

gags
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