Author Topic: New to New England  (Read 935 times)


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New to New England
« on: April 23, 2006, 03:52:36 PM »
Howdy all,
   I am a new resident to New England, particularilary to the lower Kennebec River valley in Maine. I know that there are not too many crags in my area, and I'm not looking for info on them at this time. My real question is about climbing in the White Mountains particularillary in the river valley where N. Conway is located. Living 2 hours away makes this a perfect area for day tripping and weekend get aways. Besides White Horse and Cathedral Ledges where are the good rock areas within the immediate area. I love trad and have climbed in many interesting places in the states and Asia and now that I am here in New England I would love to expierence all that there is to do out here. I'm looking at a winter ascent of Mt. Washington next season, with possibly a ski descent. Plenty of craggin and trad climbing. Where are the hot and not-so-hot spots around that area?

 I know that there is a ton of climbing history to be found throughout the area, with the likes of Ed Webster, Henderson and Underhill, Fritz Weissner, and countless other names in climbing history out there, along with numerous skilled and dedicated professional climbing guides.


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Re: New to New England
« Reply #1 on: April 23, 2006, 04:28:14 PM »
welcome to the area. 2 hours to N Conway ain't too bad. you can certianly do day trips and/or weekends. I did it for a long time before I finally moved up from Boston.

check out the Route section on this site. currently there are 22 separate rock climbing areas in the database. there are more places to climb, but these are some of the more popular ones. you should also consider buying Ed Webster's guide if you haven't already. I think it's the best, tho not the most recent.


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  • Guest
Re: New to New England
« Reply #2 on: April 23, 2006, 05:48:50 PM »
I already have a copy of his book, and I know that the answer to where should I climb will more than likely be "It depends...".

I am really looking at expierencing the history and climbing that the White Mountains have to offer. By combinging both I certainly have enjoyed climbing in other areas of the world, as I have gained a better appreciation for the ascents, areas, and those who were pioneers  for thier time.


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Re: New to New England
« Reply #3 on: April 26, 2006, 04:55:59 PM »
Maybe hire George Hurley for a couple days of climbing.  With 40+ years of guiding I'm sure he could help you delve into the history of the area.  Find info on him at


  • Guest
Re: New to New England
« Reply #4 on: September 10, 2006, 12:39:20 PM »
Try Huntington's Ravine on Mt. Washington.  Look it up in Webster's book.  The Pinnacle Buttress (5.7) offers easy climbing in a great location.  There are harder climbs in the ravine too.  Also check out the climbing on the crags on the Kangamangus area.  There are plenty of crags and classic climbs.  Cliff in the Woods Crag, Painted Walls, Rainbow Slabs, Sundown Cliff.  Screaming Yellow Zonkers is a classic route to look up in the book.  I am currently eyeing Thwarthog and Windjammer.  Endeavor on White's Ledge is great.  Stay away from Lost Ledge.  The climbs are very moderate and short and the cliff is hard to find.  You'll find fantastic granite where ever you decide to go.