Author Topic: babies first aid route  (Read 523 times)

Offline Ducayet

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babies first aid route
« on: September 07, 2015, 08:56:37 PM »
Looking for suggestions for into aid routes in the Whites. Something that can go clean at C1 using a typical trad rack (+ maybe some hooking) that will give me a big wall feel. I'd love to get on the Mordor Wall routes in the very near future - but think it wise to get some practice on easier terrain first.

Thanks in advance (and sorry for sapmming the trad forum, this seems like the most appropriate place to ask).

-Ducayet

Offline strandman

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Re: babies first aid route
« Reply #1 on: September 08, 2015, 10:04:17 AM »
All out aid or part aid ?  I'd give P1 mordor C2(+) maybe ?  The Prow is good, but free climbers might get pissed off. Women In Love C1 but with an angling crack that can get awkward.

Forget about north end cracks like some will say,,crowded,greasy and way to popular.  IMO

The roof cracks at Cave Mountain will give you a chance to thrash around in silence..or Crack in the Woods,,Razor Crack..painted Walls

Offline M_Sprague

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Re: babies first aid route
« Reply #2 on: September 08, 2015, 12:43:15 PM »
Greenpeace out at Greens Main Cliff would be good. It was originally done as a clean aid route by Jamal Lee Elkin.  It is unlikely you will have to deal with crowds. It is 200 feet (a little more if you topped out), but is in the middle of the clean wall so feels like you are out there. You could probably do a bit of hooking through the pocket section, though I bet cams and tricams would get you through. The last bit getting to the second anchor might be some thin hooking, but if it was too spicy there you could always do a little pendulum off of good gear to the right to the hand crack of Green Thumb, which goes up to the same anchor. I know Dima Shirokov and Katya Vorotnikov did speed aid laps on it while getting ready to go to the valley for the Nose.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/greenpeace/106759678
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

-Ralph Waldo Emerson

Offline Ducayet

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Re: babies first aid route
« Reply #3 on: September 08, 2015, 01:53:29 PM »
strandman: Thanks for the recommendations at Cathedral. The Prow seems like it would be a proud aid climb, I'd certainly wait to tackle that mid-week when crowds are low - I know itís very popular (rightfully so). I've checked out the cave mtn cracks several years ago - could be a great spot to struggle with my steep/overhanging skills.

Sprague: Greenpiece looks AWESOME. What a great excuse to finally go and check out that cliff. Thanks for bringing that to my attention. This topo I found (http://www.mountainproject.com/v/106759722) says it goes at A3; but that's only with the thin hooking you mention eh? Sounds like exactly what I'm looking for - I'm basically trying to find pitches that will get me in the Yosemite mindset.

Thank you both.

-Ducayet
« Last Edit: September 08, 2015, 02:10:57 PM by Ducayet »

Offline CD

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Re: babies first aid route
« Reply #4 on: September 08, 2015, 01:54:40 PM »
Mineral site cliff, cathedral cave serves a specific niche, north end on a misty day. I Have a soft spot in my heart for aid climbing and would be stoked to get on something, greens sounds particularly nice.
keep it weird.

Offline M_Sprague

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Re: babies first aid route
« Reply #5 on: September 08, 2015, 05:28:20 PM »
When you get your aid technique down, maybe you could try the Great Arch, also at Greens. I am surprised no one has done it. It is a really impressive feature. I have been tempted to try to aid solo it just to get a closer look to see if it looked like someone could free it, but I have never really  done much aiding. You can see it in this picture The arch itself is maybe 150'+ and then you could head up another 150-200' of steep terrain. To me it always looked like a potential Jay Conway free project, but the day I showed it to him I had shwacked him all over hell before we got to it, so I think the enthusiasm was waining
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

-Ralph Waldo Emerson

Offline CD

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Re: babies first aid route
« Reply #6 on: September 08, 2015, 05:32:40 PM »
That looks beautiful. Thanks for sharing!
keep it weird.

Offline strandman

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Re: babies first aid route
« Reply #7 on: September 08, 2015, 05:45:35 PM »
Used to be A3..until mark added bolts  ::)

Offline M_Sprague

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Re: babies first aid route
« Reply #8 on: September 08, 2015, 06:08:36 PM »
Damn right, Johny  ;D , but I didn't pull on them. 
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

-Ralph Waldo Emerson

Offline strandman

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Re: babies first aid route
« Reply #9 on: September 08, 2015, 06:13:55 PM »
We can cross thread here..fuck'm..right ???...i have never had a single regret about any f/a I have ever done..not one