Author Topic: Post 5 - Update on Giant/Dix UMP's & Fixed Anchors  (Read 365 times)

Offline arockclimber

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Post 5 - Update on Giant/Dix UMP's & Fixed Anchors
« on: March 03, 2003, 07:47:31 pm »
              -Climbers do not infer we cause no environmental impact.  But compared to the 41,000 trailhead registrations in 2001 in the Giant/Dix area, we are a "drop" in the environmental impact "bucket".  

     -Climbers fully support the idea that disabled persons should have access to recreational opportunities.  But several questioned if the proposed ADA canoe launch site at Chapel Pond is an appropriate location for this access.

     -Could the old parking area (which is guard-railed off) at the Spiders Web be used as an area to allow car camping or bivy sites for visiting climbers?  It is already there, and could be easily patrolled by rangers to keep the bivy and camping situation under control.  

     -Local climbers believe that removal of existing fixed anchors will cause an increase in climbing related injuries and necessitate more technical rescues.  Traveling climbers who have current guide books will count on fixed protection being there if it's noted in the guide.  When the fixed protection isn't there it creates a" hazardous condition".  People will get hurt or stranded on the cliff, requiring assistance from the DEC when the fixed protection they were told would be there is gone.

     -Local climbers pointed out that fixed anchors have been used in rescues before, and will be used in future rescues.  There are bolts in the area that were installed explicitly for use in anticipated rescue operations, they remain in place.  

     -Climbers pointed out removal of fixed anchors on top of the cliff will force climbers to use trees as anchors for rappelling and top roping, this will accelerate tree mortality.  If walk off's are the only option when topping out a climb, there will be more multiple herd paths on top of and around cliffs.

     -Local climbers pointed out that the Adirondacks doesn't have a lot of fixed anchors compared with other climbing areas.  Self-policing our activities and local ethics have kept bolting in control so far, so why change things?  Routes here don't tend to be "over bolted", many bolts here are put in to prevent serious injury or death.

     -Climbers pointed out if you want to control bolting, simply enforce existing regulations that prohibit motorized equipment in wilderness areas.  If you've ever put a bolt in by hand, you know it will take 30-40 minutes of BACK BREAKING labor for each bolt.  If no motorized drilling is allowed, you won't see a proliferation of bolts.

     -Climbers pointed out that the DEC should extend the same understanding and consideration to "mountaineering activities" as they do to other user groups.  Trails, bridges, lean-tos, tent sites, and bear wires are all installed for hikers.  Fish are stocked into lakes and streams for fisherman.  Horseback riders have their own lean-tos, corrals, and hitching posts installed by the DEC in horse camping areas.  Fixed anchors are just as important to mountaineering as any of these installations mentioned above are to other user groups.

     -The 2001 revision of the APSLMP states in definitions of wilderness areas and guidelines:
#5 - No new structures or improvements in wilderness areas will be allowed except in conformity with the UMP finally adopted for each unit.
_________________________________________________________________________________________                -Does this give the DEC room to compromise on the fixed anchor issue?