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Author Topic: What dries out first?  (Read 232 times)

dogboy

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What dries out first?
« on: March 13, 2003, 05:41:52 AM »

So...what dries out first?  The South Buttress, Humphry's...maybe Short Order or the Thin Air Face?  I'm climbing rock on Sunday, and am wondering what people would suggest (minus overhanging 5.12+ stuff). It's supposed to be almost 60 on Sunday...Spring is here!
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In the Light

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Re: What dries out first?
« Reply #1 on: March 13, 2003, 10:09:58 AM »

Sundown stays pretty dry. I would checkout Vultures (5.10+), Agent Orange (5.11-), Flight of the Falcon (5.10), Dikenstein (5.11).

Rumney would probably be a good bet too.
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Admin Al

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Re: What dries out first?
« Reply #2 on: March 13, 2003, 10:20:24 AM »

The South Buttress of Whitehorse might be good, Humphrey's on the left will likely be good and Crack In The Woods will be fine. In face CITW has been great all winter!.

Al
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Thinker

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Re: What dries out first?
« Reply #3 on: March 13, 2003, 02:19:23 PM »

I doubt crack in the woods will be dry. It does get alot of run off from the hill above it, hence the black stains of everything. Plus the bolted routes start at about 5.13c.
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Re: What dries out first?
« Reply #4 on: March 13, 2003, 08:59:08 PM »

fwiw I was over there about 3 weeks ago. there was a trail totally beat out and a fire ring just below the climb. there was no water running in the crack, tho there was ice at the top over to the right. it looked to me as if folks had been going over there a lot.

al
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Bryan

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Re: What dries out first?
« Reply #5 on: March 14, 2003, 06:10:39 AM »

Anybody know when Echo Crag is fit to rock climb?  I am sure it's a little later that other places because it sits in the Notch.  Thanks!
Bryan
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CHRISTOPHER A WALTON

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Re: What dries out first?
« Reply #6 on: March 18, 2003, 07:18:56 AM »

inferno, hotter than hell, and tranquility are good bets early season. you can climb at rumney anytime. i am guessing humphreys would also be good.

what about the so-called albany slab. it is just south of the jct of 113 and 16. the guidebook says "ask a local" anyone been there? it is ALWAYS in the sun.

finally, bouldering...where is the best sunny april bouldering here in the valley?

wally
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schwortz

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Re: What dries out first?
« Reply #7 on: March 18, 2003, 01:55:37 PM »

jockey cap was dry enough to boulder in november and december...maybe still...
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Re: What dries out first?
« Reply #8 on: March 18, 2003, 05:15:14 PM »

I go bouldering at Humphrey's Ledge right at the walk-in. there are a bunch of nice problems at a variety of grades. the nice thing is that the rock is rough & it gets your tips in shape. of course Jockey's Cap in Fryeburg is wonderful too. I climb there into late December and in the early spring. the wall on the left side is great for traverses to get your arms and fingers in shape on jugs. just be aware that you can get waaaay high off the ground when going from left to right. <grin> there is also a ton of low bouldering right in front of the cliff.

al
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Bryan

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Re: What dries out first?
« Reply #9 on: March 19, 2003, 12:31:18 PM »

Does anybody know if Joe English in southern NH stays wet for a while like Crow Hill??  Climbed there a couple of times last season, and hiked up there this winter.  It was a waterfall in December.  Any beta would be great!
Also, I've never climbed at Rose Ledges in Western Ma. this early.  Does anybody know that conditions of that crag??  
Bryan
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Tradclimber

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Re: What dries out first?
« Reply #10 on: March 24, 2003, 04:41:52 PM »

Anyone know what's dry in N.C.  Thin Air?  Saigons? Funhouse/Bombardment? North Wall?  Toe Crack?
 I'm headed out there this weekend and leaving the ice tools at home! ;)
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dogboy

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Re: What dries out first?
« Reply #11 on: March 25, 2003, 07:12:50 AM »

A couple of climbs on Humphreys are <<relatively>> dry.  We did both pitches of Wanderlust last weekend.  The first pitch was dry except the crux, and the second pitch was wet but lots of fun.  Piece of Cake et al on the far left are all dry.  The first pitch of Robinson Crusoe (sp?) is dry and looks great!
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jay conway

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A good option
« Reply #12 on: March 27, 2003, 10:52:34 AM »

A really good place for dry rock is woodchuck ledge especially screaming yellow zonkers. Screaming yellow zonkers is a killer route, and don't be scared by the 11c grade. This route has no move harder than 5.9+, but probably no move easier than 5.9. Its a great pump, with great gear, get tons of sun and with this weather you will probably be doing it in a t-shirt. If your not up for leading it there is a really good 5.7 to the left of it, then you have to rap to set a TR. Never anyone out there.
Have Fun
Jay
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Admin Al

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Re: What dries out first?
« Reply #13 on: April 01, 2003, 12:52:42 PM »

I was out walking around this afternoon by Cathedral. the Thiun Air face looks pretty good, with most of the stuff off the top and out of the Flush.  Bombardment is also looking good as is Fun House. all of the left iside of Humphrey's is fine and the hike in is ok too.

now if we just get a bit of warm weather again it should be nice and dry & ready to climb...
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Al Hospers
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