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Author Topic: Falling Aspirations TR  (Read 97 times)

gavinshmavin

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Falling Aspirations TR
« on: July 13, 2006, 08:53:23 AM »

Hi all,

I just did Falling Aspirations for the first time yesterday (mistakenly thinking that it kept left of the scars from the old man rockfall).  Oops! It was very different than the guidebook description, but still pretty enjoyable on the whole. 

The thing that will probably keep me off it from now on is the _huge_ pile of loose blocks sitting on a slab directly above parts of the first three pitches.  It looked like a deck of ten-ton playing cards, just perched there on end.  Not obvious from the ground, but really looks ominous, even to a guy who enjoyed topping out on Vertigo. 

Some of the early belays were slightly questionable (but would have been much better, I think, if I had more small cams).  Pitch 1 was a bit wet and (at least for rusty ol' me) fairly exciting.  I think an earlier poster said they thought it was scary 5.7 now and that seems about right.  A fairly large section of pitch 4 seems to be missing (the guidebook refers to a vertical finger crack, which is definitely nowhere to be found) but the climbing is easy, if a bit wandering, up to the start of P5.  Pitches 2 and 3 are also somewhat different but still decipherable based on the guidebook.  The pins at the early belays referenced in the book are not there, so far as I can tell, although there is one very bad pin at the end of P1, which seems like it might be part of the old belay.

Having said all that, some of the climbing was great, and I do enjoy the loose, wandering climbs on Cannon sometimes.  We had a great day, topped out at about 2:30 or so, just before the rain started in earnest.  I'm so glad the last two pitches of Lakeview/Wiessners are unchanged - they are stellar!

Peace,
Gavin

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Bill

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Re: Falling Aspirations TR
« Reply #1 on: July 13, 2006, 05:08:28 PM »

Hey Gavin -

Good job on FA! I ended up cutting over from Wiessner's Dike and wandering up the left side of Pitch 3 of FA a couple of weeks ago. I was wondering if the entire route was still doable. Looked like a nice line and the pitch 3 slab was very nice.

You are right about loose stuff and some of is it very big! I almost dislodged a washing machine sized block at one point. Very scary.

If you are walking beneath this section of cliff or coming up the talus field towards the base of Wiessner's Dike be very alert!

Bill
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gavinshmavin

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Re: Falling Aspirations TR
« Reply #2 on: July 14, 2006, 09:12:53 AM »


You are right about loose stuff and some of is it very big! I almost dislodged a washing machine sized block at one point. Very scary.

Bill

Bill,

We did a bit of intentional tossing at times - figured it was a good time to do it since there was nobody else on the entire cliff.  But we didn't make much of a dent in the total amount of loose rock.  I don't know if I'd recommend doing the whole route - like I said, those first 2 pitches are right underneath some really bad stuff.  But the climbing itself is totally fine, no looser than some other Cannon climbs (SSS, for example).

What did you do on P4?  I wandered all over the place before I figured out where I needed to be.

peace,
gavin
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Bill

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Re: Falling Aspirations TR
« Reply #3 on: July 14, 2006, 05:03:35 PM »

Talking about wandering around...

I cut way too low and way to right out of Wiessner's Dike 1st belay. Ended up at the bottom right hand corner of the Indented Slab. Attempted to go up the corner and immediately started to dislodge a constant stream of debris ranging pebbles to soccer ball sized rocks (unintentional tossing!!!). After 20 or 30 feet I bailed right up onto what I subsequently learned was FA's pitch 3 slab. This is when I almost dislodged the very large block. The rock making up the corner here is all broken up and very loose.

The slab was great climbing. Moved straight up staying about 10 feet right of the Indented Slab. I was aiming at what appeared to be a finger crack in the overlap about 12 feet from the ledge. When I got up there the "finger crack" was a flare and the overlap offered no pro. By this time I was pretty runout and from my vantage point I couldn't determine if the ledge offerred any kind of decent belay or any escape from it. Downclimbed got back on the Indented Slab and ran it up the middle on relatively pro-less but easy terrain.

Repeated Wiessner's Dike last week and stayed on route this time. It is a fun outing and other than a bit of loose rock coming into the Lunch Ledge it was not impacted by the fall of the Old Man.  Like you I really enjoy those last two pitches.

You are right about staying off the 1st two pitches of FA until the stuff above clears out. I would be pretty nervous doing them knowing what is stacked up above them.

Gavin - thanks for posting up the TR, good reading and good info.

Bill
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