Author Topic: is climbing at Camden any good?  (Read 1136 times)

Offline om

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is climbing at Camden any good?
« on: September 14, 2006, 04:50:10 pm »
Going to Maine for business next week and will be staying near Camden Hills state park. Falcon guide has number of routes listed there, but it's hard to tell if the area is any good. Has anyone climbed there? What is it like? Is there enough to spend a weekend?

Any beta appreciated...
-om

Offline Griffin

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Re: is climbing at Camden any good?
« Reply #1 on: September 14, 2006, 06:34:07 pm »
There is a nice little pink guidebook to the area which you can pick up on the second floor of Maine Sport on the way there (9 bucks, I think), its on Route 1 in Rockport, big store surrounded by Kayaks and stuff.  Barrett's Cove Cliff is the main cliff, and the Verticals are above and to the left.  Never climbed up there, just scoped it out with my girlfriend.  Looks worth it though...

also: http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/listState.php?CountryStateID=75  This lists a few routes.

Offline DWarriner

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Re: is climbing at Camden any good?
« Reply #2 on: September 14, 2006, 07:32:09 pm »
I was in Camden a couple of times in April and looked the cliffs over.  They look nice, approach is very short.  Certainly looked worth climbing if you're there.  I want to check them out next time I go up.  Be sure to hike up Mt Battie or Megunticooc for some amazing views for such tiny hikes.

-David
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DLottmann

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Re: is climbing at Camden any good?
« Reply #3 on: September 14, 2006, 08:04:42 pm »
I took a day trip up there last Fall and there is some good climbing there.  At Bartlett's Cove Cliff we did Equinox (5.5) and Charlotte's Crack (5.7), both fun trad leads.  There is some good bouldering nearby too.  Could have easily spent a few days there, though Acadia being only a few hours north is tempting!

Offline alpinetraveler

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Re: is climbing at Camden any good?
« Reply #4 on: September 14, 2006, 10:25:57 pm »
During college I spent a bunch of time in Camden and learned to love it.  If you're there then hell yeah, check it out!  Its been awhile since I've been up there but here's a couple thoughts.  The Main Cliff is the easiest approach with the biggest reward.  Charlotte's Crack (5.7) is the classic though Pandora (mostly bolted 5.9) is pretty good.  The cliff isn't that steep so hard 9's are about as stiff as it gets.  Be prepared for flaring cracks and marginal gear if you decide to venture onto some of the other routes.  There's also a boulder with a couple of sweet but stiff problems on the approach trail. 

One of the best places and least visited at Camden is the Ocean Lookout.  Buy Ben Townsend's little guide from Mainesport or someplace similar to climb the routes out there.  Exasperator (wild 5.8) and Twisted Schister (5.10) are fun roof problems while Kudzu's Corner (5.10) is probably the best route.  The route to the right of Kudzu's is also very good at 5.11.  This cliff is probably 140' tall and is up high overlooking the bay.  The approach goes by the Ramparts (mostly sport) which have some good routes but Ocean Lookout is better.  Before starting up anything that you think is supposed to be a sport route make sure you see at least some bolts.  Some jackass went on one hell of a chopping rampage a number of years ago and routes were slow to be cleaned up and rebolted.  I'm not sure what the current status is.  Have fun!
Justin
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Offline om

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Re: is climbing at Camden any good?
« Reply #5 on: September 15, 2006, 01:19:53 pm »
you are lifting my spirits! Thanks for the info
-om

Offline perswig

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Re: is climbing at Camden any good?
« Reply #6 on: September 16, 2006, 05:23:24 am »
Camden's my backyard crag, certainly worth a few days (but I'm not biased ;)).  As stated, not very steep but be steady on crimpy slab stuff, expect some runouts (many of the best routes are R or X), and bring lots of small gear - aliens, TCUs, small nuts and tricams rule.  Agree with DMan on Equinox and Charlotte's as the best standards but if you cruise them, do Toontown or Templeton's as your P2.  Also, Pandora, Broken Elevator, Desperado, and White Streak will all get your attention.
If you're travelling light, bring your sport/TR stuff and do the Verticals or the Rampart routes.
If all of us have whet your appetite, PM or email me and I'll get you my B. Townsend guide to help with your weekend. Enjoy.  Dale
If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.

Offline om

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Re: is climbing at Camden any good?
« Reply #7 on: September 25, 2006, 05:51:38 pm »
it rained whole weekend, damn it. We did hike up and the view was terrific, but no climbing...  :'(
-om

Offline Camden Climbing

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Re: is climbing at Camden any good?
« Reply #8 on: August 23, 2018, 11:26:23 am »
If anyone needs some information on Climbing in Camden please feel free to give us a call! (207) 619-3957‬. We really like climbing here and love to talk to climbers about it! www.equinoxguidingservice.com
Equinox Guiding Service
Camdenclimbing@gmail.com
+1 (207) 619-3957‬

Offline perswig

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Re: is climbing at Camden any good?
« Reply #9 on: October 15, 2018, 06:01:57 pm »
By all that's holy, don't take any advice from that 'perswig' guy way up-thread.
Dood's a menace!


(good to see Camden getting a bit of love)
Dale
If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.

Offline Admin Al

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Re: is climbing at Camden any good?
« Reply #10 on: October 17, 2018, 10:18:14 am »
I've been hearing that it's a great place to climb. I gotta get up there next spring.
Al Hospers
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