Author Topic: Goals  (Read 255 times)

Bryan

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Goals
« on: May 01, 2003, 08:57:28 AM »
Just curious about other climbers goals for this season.  I am certainly pushing myself more than I thought I would be, I've allready pushed the grades a little harder than I have before.  My early season accomplishment is a pretty hard 5.8 gunks climb.  Pretty stiff.  I have my sights aimed a little higher now.  Can anyone suggest a climb in the N.Conway area in the 5.9 arena with good pro, that's worth while for my first lead of that grade?  Thanks!!

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Goals
« Reply #1 on: May 01, 2003, 09:51:29 AM »
how 'bout Recompense to the Beast Flake. p1 is a great 5.7 with good exposure that will focus you in. then the flake (p2) has one superb 5.9 move with exceptional exposure and excellent protection. the climbing up the flake itself to the belay is about 5.6, with good pro. bring your large gear for the flake and protect the crux move, into the flake, with a couple of pieces up high with long slings. you don't have to do the last 2 pitches and can rap from the top of the flake with 2 60 meter ropes. it's a superb outing.

FWIW it was one of the first 5.9's I did around here and I keep doing it on a regular basis.

Al
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Offline JAY

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Re: Goals
« Reply #2 on: May 01, 2003, 09:59:51 AM »
Hey Bryan here is a couple of really good intro 9's with great gear.
If you crack:
Birds Nest @ Cathedrals North end
They Died Laughing @ Cathedrals North end

If you like slab/face
Cold day in hell @ Whitehorse's South Buttress.

My goals are to get rid of this tendonitis and climb............anything will do.........I am going crazy.

Jay

Al, what are your goals??

Offline dogboy

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Re: Goals
« Reply #3 on: May 01, 2003, 01:25:35 PM »
The first 5.9 I led was Short Order on Whitehorse...a great intro 5.9 with excellent gear and a wide variety of moves...from thin slab climbing to laybacking.

Hotter than Hell on Whitehorse has excellent face climbing....

And Children's Crusade is absolutely classic, with good gear...but the crux is stiff 5.9, with good fall potential....
Everybody wants to go to heaven, but no one wants to die.

Offline xmikeyx

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Re: Goals
« Reply #4 on: May 01, 2003, 02:23:33 PM »
personally i agree with al, recompense with the beast flake variation is one of the best routes in the whites (my opinion). wild exposre great climbing and bomber gear all over the place. the climbing on the flake itself is cake once you make the one hard move onto it. just watch out - i made the classic mistake of running out the easy bits and then slipping!! :o took a nice little whipper, but the falls are perfectly clean after p1. i'd suggest that you do the whole route instead of rapping after p2. p3 has some pretty wild moves (i highly recommend double ropes)!! and the dihedral to the top of the cliff if absolutely classic. solid 5.9 but never desperate with perfect gear the whole way up.
you might also want to try some of the cracks on the barber wall (stout but great. is that closed for falcons? ???), hotter than hell to the upper cracks of inferno if a beautiful link-up. if you're feeling particularly adventurous and you know what's you're doing, head over to cannon (once conditions improve) and get on moby grape (amazing climb with a couple runouts), slow and easy (1p 5.8), whinet-gilman ridge or consolation prize. did p1 of that and then p2 of condescender last year and that was a great little 5.9 slab with brand new bolts. really fun stuff, surprisingly low commitment...and cannon just lends an air of total adventure. or you can head to rumney and work nice juggy overhanging sport routes - i'm starting to salivate all over my cubicle...

my goals for the season? 1) get my shoulder working again without having surgurey 2) climb the beast flake clean 3) get up the book of solemnity and camber 4) climb my first 12 at rumney 5) have a hell of a lot of fun...
Climb hard, climb smart or fall...That's all there is to it.

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Goals
« Reply #5 on: May 01, 2003, 06:10:13 PM »
goals, goals... have I got some goals for this year. <g>

I have 3 climbs on my list to lead this year:

1) The Book
2) p2 of Tranquility
3) p2 of Ego Trip

I figure I'll do Recompense, Jacob's Ladder, Cold Day in Hell, Hotter Than Hell, Loose Lips and Lost Souls over the next 2-3 weeks. then I'll probably hit on The Book for starters. next I'll try Tranquility, before it gets too hot. after that I'll start working on Ego Trip again. I have everything but the crux move, so I thihnk I'll toprope it a couple of times to wire the move. it's hard but I think it will go, for me.

if I feel really good as the summer progresses I may try something like Ethereal Crack. with all the new minicams you can really sew it up & be safe.

hey, that's a peck-o-stuff, but if I can manage most of it I'll make a good stab at being a solid 5.10 climber. my overall goal is to be able to climb solid 5.10 so wherever I go I can have some fun stuff to climb. once you can do that, you have a lot more freedom when you go places.

i'm really interested in what other folks have for goals. i think it's a great topic.

Al
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Offline Climbergal1

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Re: Goals
« Reply #6 on: May 01, 2003, 09:54:31 PM »
This rock season I plan on focusing on technique and learning to lead. This year was my first winter out there on ice, and what a incredible ice season it was.. Getting back there after using picks is a transition. I am so hooked  8)
But mainly I want to learn more of the balance and the skill, and put more of my focus there. At the same time I also want to build up on endurance. Then everything will fall into place.
~~~
Id really like to stick to a routine, in between juggleing life. Is that a goal or am I just day-dreaming?
~~~


Offline xmikeyx

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Re: Goals
« Reply #7 on: May 05, 2003, 09:17:29 AM »
 :o :'(
errrr...yeah forget about my suggestion to get on consolation prize, i bet most of that section of the cliff was damaged. YIKES!!! good thing it happened at night.
Climb hard, climb smart or fall...That's all there is to it.

Offline Ivan_Chomkin

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Re: Goals
« Reply #8 on: May 06, 2003, 12:57:02 PM »
climb as much and as hard as I fucking can...

Due to a huge amount of work i've had in recent weeks I haven't climbed for ages. This situation must be fixed, and soon.

as for specific routes as goals, well actually some of the ones Al mentioned (Recompense, the Book) sound like something to aim for in terms of major multi-pitch projects. In general I want to finally get to a solid 5.11 level on toprope and at least 5.8-5.9 on lead.

misplaced newenglander

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Re: Goals
« Reply #9 on: May 07, 2003, 09:01:27 PM »
One of my many goals is to return to the land where climbing stole my heart, MWV. I live in Estes Park Co and love it here,there is more good rock than I know what to do with, but find myself surfing New England sites a lot. I miss it all.
I learned to climb there and now I dream about the hard things on Cathedral and Whitey that I could jump on now.

i am returning in the fall for Rocktober, and want to get busy.

The Prow
Screaming Yellow Zonkers
Lady slipper to Upper Wonder Wall
Lights in The forest
WOMEN IN LOVE!!!!!
Camber

Mostly I want to sit by the Saco and relax in the place where it all began.
wild how absence makes the heart grow fonder.

Hope ya'll have a great summer

see you in the Fall!!

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Goals
« Reply #10 on: May 08, 2003, 06:45:57 AM »
Ivan said: "This situation must be fixed, and soon. "

yes yes yes... anything that gets in the way of climbing MUST be remedied. and the sooner the better!

<grin>

Al
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