Author Topic: Multi Pitch Favorites?  (Read 2300 times)

Offline agoodnap

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Multi Pitch Favorites?
« on: November 26, 2006, 09:46:28 PM »
OK gang, So you're taking out a newbie for their first multi pitch after a year of top roping and a few times cleaning gear.  The issue is that hanging off a cliff trusting just gear (as opposed to having your feet on a ledge) is scary the first time, right?  So do you have some suggestions of a great spot? 


Offline bag11s

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Re: Multi Pitch Favorites?
« Reply #1 on: November 26, 2006, 10:17:30 PM »
got to go with the Standard Route on Whitehorse- on a nice day like this weekend was.

Offline honus

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Re: Multi Pitch Favorites?
« Reply #2 on: November 26, 2006, 10:20:49 PM »
well, thin air is an obvious choice. some of the routes on the whitehorse slabs would be a good intro, lots of mileage on moderate ground. check out the routes database on this site, pick something you're comfortable with, find a knowledgable partner and climb it. also think about doing single pitch climbs like it's a multi pitch for practice. what i mean by this is have the leader climb the pitch, build the anchor, then belay from above. once you've climbed up, rap off. this is a good way to get used to the systems involved in long climbs. i would much rather get systems well dialed on a few embarassingly easy multi pitch climbs than go and flail on a hard one...a good option might be clip-dee-doo-dah at rumney. 5.3, 2 pitches, perfect place to figure things out.

Offline redpoint73

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Re: Multi Pitch Favorites?
« Reply #3 on: November 27, 2006, 12:03:20 PM »
Many of the more popular multi-pitch routes in New England have fixed anchors, such as sturdy bolts, pitons, or a beefy tree to belay from.  And often, the belays are strategically positioned on at least a small ledge, sometimes on a huge comfy one.

Some good ones are Thin Air and Upper Refuse on Cathedral, Standard Route On Whitehorse.  All of these offer good rock, solid pro, and classic climbing.  But they are also very popular, so get there early or try hitting them on a weekday.  Or be prepared to wait in line.  Many of the eaiser routes on the Whitehorse Slabs would also be suitable for a beginning second, although a bit runout for the leader, depending on his experience.

DLottmann

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Re: Multi Pitch Favorites?
« Reply #4 on: November 27, 2006, 12:28:16 PM »
The issue is that hanging off a cliff trusting just gear (as opposed to having your feet on a ledge) is scary the first time, right?

Hopefully after a bunch of top-roping they already trust the rope and belayer.  Trusting a gear anchor 200 feet up can be a little more nerve racking.  Maybe some time spent at ground level showing the redundancy in a good gear anchor and having them start to understand why those 3 or 4 pieces of gear will keep you on the wall could help someone who is a little over anxious.  Most routes, especially the moderates, have comfy belay ledges where it is not necessary to weight the anchor.  Even when there is a stance, I encourage new climbers to tie in snug to the anchor, and lean back in a comfortable, easier to belay position.  After a few pitches you can see most relax, but some take more time.

As for climbs in New England, all that have been listed are great, plus:

West Face of Square Ledge, Pinkham Notch.  5.5 break it up into 2 short pitches, very scenic!
Beginner's Route on Whitehorse, mostly bolted and all bolted anchors.
Story of O, Acadia 5.6 3 pitch gear anchors with bolted rappels
Easy O, Easy Overhang, 3 Pines all in the Gunks


Offline agoodnap

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Re: Multi Pitch Favorites?
« Reply #5 on: November 27, 2006, 01:23:17 PM »
I love this site!  Thank you all for great tips.  I wish I was out there right now.  Way too nice to be doing the damn work thing today. 

Thank you again!  ;D

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Multi Pitch Favorites?
« Reply #6 on: November 27, 2006, 06:09:59 PM »
Other good ones at cathedral. Sea of holes Funhouse and Pooh to upper refuse.  The daks  Washbowl cliff Weissner rt 5.5  Chaple pond slab 5.5  Little finger 5.6 on Rojers rock. Absolutly hundreds of climbs at the gunks.

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Multi Pitch Favorites?
« Reply #7 on: November 27, 2006, 07:16:29 PM »
tradman - sea of holes is on whitehorse!  :o

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Offline climbhigh

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Re: Multi Pitch Favorites?
« Reply #8 on: November 27, 2006, 08:04:28 PM »
 :) Thank god for Admiral Al and Dman they always seem to be watching over us mere mortals, lol ;D

Offline rparker

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Re: Multi Pitch Favorites?
« Reply #9 on: November 30, 2006, 08:29:27 AM »
my two cents worth:

If I were a beginning leader, the last place I would go is Whitehorse Slabs, with the exception of Standard or the first 2-3 pitches of Beginners.  The reason for this is the 40-50 foot runouts on all of the other routes (Sea of Holes, Beginners, etc).  Yes, the technical difficulty of the run out sections of these routes is not high, but you can find a lot of "air under your feet".  Add pine needles, which are ubiquitous in the fall, and these run outs become even more spicey as you blow the needles off the places you will move your feet to.  I have always thought that to lead routes other than Standard, you need to be comfortable and skilled (pro in holes, etc) climbing at 2-3 grades higher...Beginners, therefore, would be good for someone comfortable leading 5.8-5.9. (The first 2-3 pitchs of Beginners would be fine because they follow cracks...the long run out pitch is always exciting.)

It seems to me that wehat you want as a beginning leader are routes where you can place pro almost wherever you want it.  This requires cracks.  You also want to be on routes well below you on-sight comfort level.  It is not a bad idea to get your systems down before you are leading routes at your on sight max.  Funhouse and Thin Air, would be good routes for the beginning leader.  Better yet, go the the Gunks for a week with another pysched partner and climb 2-3 pitch routes all day long at whatever grade you want.  Do all the 5.3's...then all the 5.4's, etc. You will rerally gain experience there and have a lot of fun...also, even the "easy" routes can be exciting!

mistymountains

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Re: Multi Pitch Favorites?
« Reply #10 on: November 30, 2006, 08:58:09 AM »
ditto the gunks, good advice by rparker

best place to begin multipitch leading

i did that and now feel comfortable leading trad at my limit because i trust the pro

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Multi Pitch Favorites?
« Reply #11 on: December 01, 2006, 09:15:54 AM »
Parker. I thought the question was where would an experienced leader bring a beginnier up their first multi pitch climb?

mistymountains

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Re: Multi Pitch Favorites?
« Reply #12 on: December 01, 2006, 10:25:53 AM »
looks like i got off topic also

still like the gunks, GT ledge, etc but white horse i have always found good, the vertigo factor is less and there are always people nearby so the second usually has someone to keep them company and not have too much alone time to extrabolate their thoughts

Offline randy j goat

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Re: Multi Pitch Favorites?
« Reply #13 on: March 19, 2008, 06:07:54 PM »
Rogers Rock in the Dacks[  new second,experienced leader],The Regular Route on the Chapel Pond Slab,also in the Dacks.
 I can't suggest the Gunks simply because I refuse to deal with the crowds or pay  as much as it is to see a movie to go rock climbing.That is just me.It is a good climbing area gone wrong. :(

 Whitehorse as long as the leader keeps the second safe from any big pendulum swings.

 Hmm, not a great suggestion but my first multipitch route was   the 5.8 line on Pinnacle Buttress on Washington. I have no idea what my trusted leader was thinking. It was   fun to a point but  I was VERY slow and  somewhat overwhelmed. Seams like he just set us up for a big epic. Luckily it was just an extremely long and tiring day.

 That said, choose wisely and be kind. :)

Offline Robbovius

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Re: Multi Pitch Favorites?
« Reply #14 on: March 19, 2008, 09:34:16 PM »
OKay, I'll chime in on this. the problem with allthese popular routes is, they're popular.

 in franconia notch theres this little crag call Artist's bluff, that's got two sweet two-pitchers, a 5.5 and a 5.6, with plenty of gear, interesting moves, and nice big belay ledges. even better, it's a five minute walk from teh echo lake parking lot, and it's not popular at all, so you'll likely have it all to yourself, like I did last august.