I am compelled to say here, that the capacity for people at the belay is not what should be permanantly modified. I, like many others over the last seventy years have found the thread quite servicible. And I backed it up the first couple of times, so clean gear is available. The real problem is people who crowd belays. I tend to get pretty pissed when another party decides that, without asking(warning), they will, in fact, be joining me in my cramped little sloped stance. I don't really give a fl**ng f**k if you are sure it's safe, or if it's how you always do it. Clipping another's gear, crowding someone while they are belaying, crossing a party's cord,even passing without asking is really damn rude and potentially very dangerous. True, without rampant swarming and cluster humping, only less than 50 or so teams will be able to send Standard or U. Refuse, Thin Air ..... But just maybe it could be OK to stand nearby(on tension of course on that wicked slab) and wait for the belay to open up. Btw, the worst offenders? Guides.