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Author Topic: fixed gear on aid routes  (Read 176 times)


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fixed gear on aid routes
« on: May 11, 2003, 11:20:06 PM »

Anyone know what the fixed gear conditions are like on any of the aid routes (specifically Mordor Wall and Mines of Moria)?

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Re: fixed gear on aid routes
« Reply #1 on: May 12, 2003, 05:32:59 AM »

last time I looked (2 years ago) the bolt ladder on P2 of Mines was terrible.

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Re: fixed gear on aid routes
« Reply #2 on: May 12, 2003, 06:34:31 AM »

hey doug.

mordor as of july01:

P1 fixed nuts and cams on are ok (bring small aliens and rps)
p2 there is now a bolt every "bat-hole". the heads  above were good then - but who knows today - bring some?

everything else is shiny bolts and A1 cracks until the roof. I think that was fixed with pins - i would say bring an assortment of cams to supplement those rusty old badboys - and mabye some short loops of webbing or draws, too.

a long and good route.



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Re: fixed gear on aid routes
« Reply #3 on: May 12, 2003, 12:31:35 PM »

I saw a guy fall and rip 2 or 3 bashies on the mordor wall ladder last summer and I'm not sure whether he replaced them or not. so

a) they are either newly replaced


b) they are missing and need to be replaced


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Re: fixed gear on aid routes
« Reply #4 on: May 12, 2003, 10:05:57 PM »

On the second pitch traverse there are three bolts and one rivet. Everything in between the bolts are bat hook moves, roughly three or four between each pair of bolts. The bolts are new and are set up with a ring for lowering off when cleaning the pitch, so your second does not need to leave a biner. A couple of years ago there were eleven or twelve copperheads, even if one or two blew you should still be able to reach the next one. There is one bolt halfway up the copperhead ladder. The third pitch has shiny bolts all the way to the C1 crack to the sidewalk belay.  


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