Author Topic: the climbing rags, errrr - mags...  (Read 1870 times)

Offline Admin Al

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the climbing rags, errrr - mags...
« on: January 23, 2007, 05:07:05 PM »
I've had subscriptions to Climbing, Rock & Ice  forever and Alpinist for a while. I'm getting really tired of these magazines and in climbing rags in general. just too much, about too little IMHO. not to mention just how much they cost annually.

just wondering if anyone else feels the same.

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Offline ccclimber

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Re: the climbing rags, errrr - mags...
« Reply #1 on: January 23, 2007, 05:37:46 PM »
i stopped about 10 years ago, when they had a survey and were questioning whether they should allow cigarette ads..the final straw was when they glorified Dan Osman..
Ed

honus

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Re: the climbing rags, errrr - mags...
« Reply #2 on: January 23, 2007, 05:46:17 PM »
I buy the magazines every month, for some reason I don't subscribe, but I've been reading them for a year and a half or so. Alpinist is obviously on the top of the heap, their photos are worth the price alone, and the articles are usually well thought out and creative. The other two magz try to make climbing into something it's not. There are lots of pictures of pretty girls in sports bras (which I like) but they aren't the people you see at the crag. Maybe it's because we live in New England and are pretty full of ourselves, but the magazines don't really have that much to offer us. The newest Rock and Ice is 2/3rds fluff, with a serious article about mixed climbing, and then a serious article about Latok 1. There's such a small market for thigns like this that it's impossible to make everyone happy and still make money. For the time being, there will still be lots of articles about hard bouldering and few about bolt chopping, the serious issues are reserved for neclimbs.com. I'll keep buying these magazines, but it will probably just be for the pretty girls in sports bras sending V10.

PS: According to the article in R&I about mixed climbing the Adirondaks are now in Maine (oops), it says so in the caption of a photo of Jim Lawyer.

bag11s

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Re: the climbing rags, errrr - mags...
« Reply #3 on: January 23, 2007, 06:08:14 PM »
Hey Al- I know what you mean, I wondered if it was some kind of sea change- or just me feelin, weird and old, and not finding much to get excited about in those particular mags. You think the world of climbing is getting less and less adventurous, or less unpredictable, or less gnarly- with positive outcomes less in question. What makes a good story? The younger writers need to dig deeper- the old articles had a terrifying (or at least humorous) meatiness to ‘em that,s hard to get at these days. So much comfort in the sport feels tired in those particular mags. Where,s the wild edge? Urban Climber? jeez- the baddest bouldering is a pretty rarefied realm, and hard to relate to, since most mortals don,t have a clue what it means.

Couple months since you added in sport and bouldering spots (at my suggestion) and no one is using them- lame suggestion, or just dumb? Or just winter? I got tons of sport climbin in up til Jan 10; both week days and weekends- beautiful weatha we done have the first half of winter for rock. No one in N Conway cares though- they only lament the lack of ice. Prob,ly all feelin, better now that it,s cold , tho.

bag11s

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Re: the climbing rags, errrr - mags...
« Reply #4 on: January 23, 2007, 06:10:56 PM »
I mean negative outcomes

T_Moon

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Re: the climbing rags, errrr - mags...
« Reply #5 on: January 23, 2007, 09:25:51 PM »
I've let my subscriptions to R&I and Climbing lapse.  The only time I read them was when I was on the throne and I don't need to shell out $60/year for bathroom reading.

stagedive

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Re: the climbing rags, errrr - mags...
« Reply #6 on: January 24, 2007, 12:04:28 PM »
My girlfriend just bought me a subscription to one of the mags, although I'm not sure which one. I haven't picked up any climbing magazine on a regular basis in years, mostly due to lack of content and boring articles. The Letters To The Editors page is almost too painful to mention.

I think they do have some redeeming qualities, such as gear reviews and technical advice, but for me it doesn't justify actually purchasing the magazine.

I'll put it this way--I'm glad I've got the subscription, but I'm also glad I didn't pay for it.

Kai
 

benlewis

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Re: the climbing rags, errrr - mags...
« Reply #7 on: January 24, 2007, 12:46:18 PM »
I usually just go to my college library and scope out the new issues.  If there is nothing worth reading, it was free and about 3 minutes of time spent.  If there is some good stuff, its nice to sit in the library for a bit. If you live near a college or a prep school, or even a cool local library, they probably get Climbing or R&I.   Its pretty easy to walk into a college library.  worth checking out for sure

DGoguen

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Re: the climbing rags, errrr - mags...
« Reply #8 on: January 24, 2007, 12:50:33 PM »
I would have to agree with you on that one Al. I had a subscription to both Climbing and Rock & Ice since 1983. I let them both expire last year. It got to be like People Magazine with rock shoes on. I've had a subscription to Alpinist from the start and will continue.

joane

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Re: the climbing rags, errrr - mags...
« Reply #9 on: January 24, 2007, 02:29:42 PM »
I will  generally take a look at any thing  written about climbing.
Whether I read it entirely,  look at the same source again or not in another  issue,  much less buy it  will really  depend on the same idea that Admin Al  mentioned about guides--trust and reputation. So if the photo/writing  is real, and honest then  I'm interested and it's fun  to read. 
What doesn't appeal to me are what seem like the fakes and phonies which  sometimes but not always  seems to have a marketing  gloss to it-whether it is a photo or a story.
 I don't mind reading about  people  trying to sell their stuff  but I   prefer if it is  an honest pitch rather than   trying to be cleverly mixed up in   some testimonial-like "story".  Like some of the  Ads that various climbing  companies put together are absolutely  so  great to look at  and/ or clever. When you look at them,  you know it's an ad and you appreciate it for what it is.  I guess  I'm not a big  fan of  junk much less buying it. But I  go a lot  for  high quality and  standards.   

Offline punxnotdead

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Re: the climbing rags, errrr - mags...
« Reply #10 on: January 24, 2007, 04:21:45 PM »
I got the high school I work at to order copies of RI and Climbing.   Certainly, there are good articles regarding other areas, epics and climbers, but I am getting kind of bored with the 5.13+ climbing articles. Then again, I am probably not the focus for their advertising either.
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Offline old_school

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Re: the climbing rags, errrr - mags...
« Reply #11 on: February 02, 2007, 10:58:53 AM »
I would have to agree with you on that one Al. I had a subscription to both Climbing and Rock & Ice since 1983. I let them both expire last year. It got to be like People Magazine with rock shoes on. I've had a subscription to Alpinist from the start and will continue.

Same here! Rock and Ice is still OK in my opinion, and I do like the new larger format, but the new editor in chief (Jonathan Thesenga) for Climbing has killed that rag! Lot's of anger, spray and Ego. I have always enjoyed Alpinist and will continue to do so.
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline JBeta

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Re: the climbing rags, errrr - mags...
« Reply #12 on: February 02, 2007, 11:50:21 AM »
I remember a time when I would bring the climbing magazines with me on climbing trip because they offered so much usefull information on the places I was climbing. I remember a particular issue of Climbing that had a well thought out article about 5.10s in New Hampshire. That was helpful. I got on routes I would not have normally gotten on because of that article.

These days, I rarely use climbing mags for anthing other than inane reading at a book store. I am told that capris are "out" as far as climbing fashion goes. I am led to believe that in order for my ascent to be worth something, I have to buddy-up with a photographer and have him shoot my picture on the route. I don't need to be told these things and it certainly isn't usefull to me.

I am a much happier climber when I ignore those tasteless volumes of over-hyped filth (Alpinist excluded, of course) and just get out and climb because that's what I love to do.

Offline old_school

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Re: the climbing rags, errrr - mags...
« Reply #13 on: February 02, 2007, 02:24:44 PM »
I am a much happier climber when I ignore those tasteless volumes of over-hyped filth (Alpinist excluded, of course) and just get out and climb because that's what I love to do.

Right on....
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

bag11s

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Re: the climbing rags, errrr - mags...
« Reply #14 on: February 03, 2007, 03:39:21 PM »
Jbeta- I enjoyed writing that article, (with editing and contributions by Alison Osius & S. Peter Lewis) thanks! At the time, the mags seemed to be neglecting 5.10, a grade that many, if not most climbers either climbed at or wanted to climb at. I had also noticed that NH's classic routes had been neglected in print for a while, so pairing the two observations was the original idea. There was approx. a year in gestation. Interviewing some of the old guard and climbing the routes was mucho fun, and Climbing did a great job with production, and, of course, the photos were great!