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Author Topic: 10 Best Crag Routes  (Read 382 times)

Fred Keith

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10 Best Crag Routes
« on: May 24, 2003, 06:53:11 AM »

 :)
Here's a good thread that any climbing-site shouldn't be without.

Let's hear it, what are your 10 favorite "crag" routes.

Criteria:

Any grade. Anywhere. Why? Not alpine, ice, mixed or big-wall. Just basic fun day-routes?
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cguertin

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Re: 10 Best Crag Routes
« Reply #1 on: May 26, 2003, 09:13:18 AM »

Frosted Mug(5.9) - Beer Walls, ADK's, NY
The Sting(5.8) - Pokomoonshine, ADK's, NY
Recompense w/ Beast Flake(5.9) - Cathedral Ledge, NH
Barndoor Crack(5.10) - Western Mass.
High Exposure(5.6) - Gunks, NY

so far...
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Admin Al

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Re: 10 Best Crag Routes
« Reply #2 on: May 26, 2003, 12:09:02 PM »

I haven't been on all that many rock climbing trips, but here you go, in no particular order:

1) Recompense - Cathedral Ledge
2) Dark Shadows - Red Rocks
3) The Wasteland - Cochise Stronghold
4) Loose Lips - Whitehorse Ledge
5) Frogland - Red Rocks
6) Nutcracker - Yosemite
7) Lost Souls - Whitehorse Ledge
8) Whitney Gilman Ridge - Canon Cliff
9) Great Red Book - Red Rocks
10) Great Dihedral - Wheeler Mt.
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jay conway

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Re: 10 Best Crag Routes
« Reply #3 on: May 27, 2003, 07:08:27 AM »

Cgeurtin, you have done Barndoor Crack? Man I don't know many people that have. That thing is unreal huh! Super good crag route. best ten is Mass I think.

Jay
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Jay Conway

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Re: 10 Best Crag Routes
« Reply #4 on: May 27, 2003, 07:15:54 AM »

Well I better post my favorites. No order except for the the first one, which I like the best.

1. Grand Wall, Squamish B.C.
2. Camber/Reverse Camber, Cathedral Ledge
3. Crack in the Woods, Crack in the Woods crag
4. The Sting, Gunks
5. Nabisco Wall, Yosemite
6. Cold day in hell/Tranquility, Whitehorse
7. Barndoor, Farley Mass
8. Exasperator, Squamish B.C
9. Screaming Yellow Zonkers, Woodchuck Ledge
10. Cathedral Peak, Tuolumne Meadows

Jay
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cguertin

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Re: 10 Best Crag Routes
« Reply #5 on: May 27, 2003, 11:21:19 AM »

So many nice routes there...boulders too!!
Jon(i think),
Are you up in NH? That is where everyone on here seems to be. MA folks seem to hang out at NEB.com.  Did you used to live out here or something? As you said, not many people know about W. Ma. stuff...
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Fred Keith

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Re: 10 Best Crag Routes
« Reply #6 on: May 27, 2003, 12:37:58 PM »

10 that come to mind (in no particular order) that others recognize / consider "classics"

10. Tales of Topograhic Oceans (5.10a), South Platte, CO
9.   Crest Jewel (5.10a) North Dome, Tuolumne
8.   Nutcracker (5.8), Manure Pile Buttress, Yosemite
7.   Pear Buttress (5.8+), The Book, Lumpy Ridge, CO
6.   Yellow Spur (5.9), Eldorado Canyon, CO
5.   Center Route (5.9++), Cynical Pinnacle, South Platte, CO
4.   Tricouni Nail (5.8), The Needles, SD
3.   Arrow (5.8), Shawanagunks, NY
2.   Gamesmanship (5.8), Po-k-omoonshine, ADKs, NY
1.   Mr. Natural (5.10b) Yosemite

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Christopher

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Re: 10 Best Crag Routes
« Reply #7 on: May 27, 2003, 01:43:21 PM »

1) Crown Direct, Val David, Quebec
2) Moby Grape, Cannon, NH
3) They Died Laughing, Cathedral, NH
4) Recompense, Cathedral, NH
5) Hotter than Hell + Inferno, Whitehorse, NH
6) Crimson Chrysalis, Red Rocks, NV
7) Nutcracker, Yosemite, CA
8) Cathedral Spire, Toulumne, CA
9) Regular Route Fairview Dome, Toulumne, CA
10) Angel's Crest, Squamish, BC

Gosh, my biases come out pretty obviously....


Also: where is this Barndoor climb you speak of?
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Fred keith

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Re: 10 Best Crag Routes
« Reply #8 on: May 27, 2003, 01:49:05 PM »

Honorable Mention..?????

Walk on the Wild Side (5.7) Joshua Tree
Charley Don't Surf (5.10b) South Platte, CO
The Saigons (5.8) Cathedral Ledge, NH
The Grand Giraffe (5.9) Eldorado
West Buttress of the Bastille (5.9) Eldorado
Anthill Direct (5.8) Eldorado
Edwards Crack (5.7) Veedawoo, WY
CCK (5.8?) Shawanagunks
Upper Reff (5.5) Cathedral
Story of O (5.7) Precipice, Acadia, ME
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Fred K

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Re: 10 Best Crag Routes
« Reply #9 on: May 27, 2003, 01:52:12 PM »

Chris: I know, everybody's bias....

Isn't Cathedral Peak considered an "Alpine" route?
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Christopher

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Re: 10 Best Crag Routes
« Reply #10 on: May 28, 2003, 08:10:58 AM »

Is Cathedral peak an alpine route?

Well, it has a (beautiful) summit.

On the other hand, its typically climbed in shorts and tennies....

So: not quite the same as the Beckey route on South Howser Spire, or anything in the Canadian Rockies...

Still curious about the Barndoor.....
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brent

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Re: 10 Best Crag Routes
« Reply #11 on: May 28, 2003, 12:45:05 PM »

Some may be a bit "obvious" but here we go:

1. Old Town - South Wall, Acadia, ME
2. A Dare by the Sea - Otter, Acadia, ME
3. Thin Air - Cathedral
4. Emmigrant Crack - South Wall, Acadia, ME
5. Story of O - South Wall, Acadia, ME
6. Prospero - Camden, ME
7. Regular Route - Chapel Pond Slab, Daks
8. Razor Crack - Otter, Acadia, ME
9. Jackie, Gunks
10.The Flake, Otter, Acadia, ME

... guess that sort of reads as "Favorite NE Crag routes" - need to hit the road more!
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Erik N

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Re: 10 Best Crag Routes
« Reply #12 on: May 28, 2003, 07:07:18 PM »

These are the climbs that I thought at the time couldn't get much better.
In no particular order:
1.  Half Dome regular route-  It's like stacking Cathedral ledge's best cracks for 2200 feet. (It's still cragging)
2.  Spook Book 5.10 Needles Calif. -Actually every climb there is a five star climb
3.  Fastest gun 5.9 Pokomoonshine
4.  VMCdirect direct Cannon- one of the best on the East coast
5.  Old Town 5.7 Acadia- Most attractive granite Iv'e ever seen and the route looks 5.10
6.  Epinephrine 5.9 Red Rocks- way fun and moderate
7.  OZ 5.10 Tuolumne- It screams climb me!
8.  The Prow 5.11 Cathedral Ledge-  My project of many years.
9.  Cathdedral Spire Tuolumne-  Loads of fun and the best summit
10  Simple Suff 5.10 Gunks-  Iv'e never worked so hard.
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Doug R

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Re: 10 Best Crag Routes
« Reply #13 on: May 29, 2003, 10:25:49 AM »

My Faves but not neccesarily 10 Best:
In no particular order

Disneyland 5.6 Gunks
Son of Easy O 5.8 Gunks
The Empress w/Greensleeves vairation 5.6
Gunklandia 5.7 MDC
Chitlin Corner 5.9 MDC
Whitney G 5.7 Cannon
Moby Grape 5.8 Cannon
Consolation Prize 5.8 Cannon
Becky's Corner 5.7 Little Cottonwood Canyon SLC
Satan's Corner 5.8 Little Cottonwood Canyon SLC
Arielle, 5.11 Donner Pass CA.

;D
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DougR

Fred K

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Re: 10 Best Crag Routes
« Reply #14 on: May 29, 2003, 01:52:31 PM »

Agree on Empress/Greensleeves, Doug...surprised nobody's mentioned Pete's Farewell, Hesitation or Hard Times yet.

Nutcracker's universal.

UT climbers also Steort's Ridge.

Story of O last pitch!

Most friends that have been there say the CA Needles best you could imagine in a crag area.

Anyone been to CO or Josh?
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