Author Topic: Cannon!  (Read 195 times)

Bryan

  • Guest
Cannon!
« on: May 28, 2003, 05:13:59 PM »
Turning to a less controversial subject.....
 Has anyone climbed lakeview or consolation prize on Cannon since the rockfall???  I've been looking forward to climbing those routes all winter, and now it doesn't look so good.  
Any beta would be great.
Safe Adventures!
Bryan

Erik N

  • Guest
Re: Cannon!
« Reply #1 on: May 28, 2003, 06:31:04 PM »
Bryan,
Many people stay off of Cannon until mid to late summer after things settle down.  Even the rock that looks solid is really just bigger loose stuff.
 The big dirt ledge that sits below the old man is gone!  All that dirt is strung out on the climbs below.  Your best bet is to wait until the fall or until some one actually climbs it and does a little trundling to clean up the route.

Jed Eliades

  • Guest
Re: Cannon!
« Reply #2 on: May 30, 2003, 05:25:48 AM »

Climbing on Cannon in the spring has always been foolhardy.
Given the recent rockfall, you'd better not count on climbing  the slabs for at least a couple years! Cannon is dangerous.
:-[

Edge

  • Guest
Re: Cannon!
« Reply #3 on: May 30, 2003, 07:59:34 AM »
I certainly agree that climbing anywhere near the slabs right now would be ridiculous, but avoiding the whole cliff in the Spring seems equally so.  I've climbed there dozens of times in April and May, and seen other people as well.  Just look in the guidebook and see how many FAs were climbed in May.

I certainly wouldn't hesitate to go in to climb Whitney-Gilman, Duet, VMC Direct Direct, you get the idea...  You just go in knowing that you're on an alpine wall, take the neccessary precautions, and have fun.  

In fact I think I just talked myself into a visit if we ever get a dry weekend.  
« Last Edit: May 30, 2003, 08:06:05 AM by Edge »

Bill Neacy

  • Guest
Re: Cannon!
« Reply #4 on: May 30, 2003, 10:28:22 AM »
Any consensus here regarding rockfall potential and timing of excursions?  We are planning on doing Whitney-Gilman and Moby Grape this season.

Offline JAY

  • NEClimbs Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 0
  • I love YaBB 1G - SP1!
Re: Cannon!
« Reply #5 on: May 30, 2003, 11:43:27 AM »
Generally speaking, you want to wait unitl the weather is warm enough where at night things are not freezing, that way you are avoiding the freeze thaw cycle. Other than that, if it has been raining a ton (like now) give it a little while for things to fall down and/or dry out.
jay

Offline Gavin

  • NEClimbs Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 1
  • I love YaBB 1G - SP1!
Re: Cannon!
« Reply #6 on: June 02, 2003, 02:41:47 PM »
I've been up on Cannon a few times so far this spring - Moby Grape once, Down East once, and then an abortive attempt on M.G. on a wet day. I definitely agree with what's been said about exercising some caution on Cannon, and also with Loran's feeling that it's not called for to avoid the entire cliff in the spring.

My (admittedly somewhat limited) experience has been that the trade routes (VMC, W-G, M.G) are generally reasonably solid, even in the spring, but that the sections of cliff that are generally loose and vegetated can be pretty nightmarish. When I did Down East the other day, I made the mistake of topping out rather than rapping after the slab pitch. The upper pitches were _much_ looser than usual, I thought. Or maybe I was just gripped after going for the big slide on the crux...hmm...

peace, and climb safe!
gavin