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Author Topic: Turner's Flake  (Read 339 times)

DWarriner

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Turner's Flake
« on: June 02, 2003, 08:43:03 AM »

Okay, so I call myself 5.8 leader, yet I have been avoiding this bad boy since it doesn't address my climbing strengths.

Specifically, I am essentially a weak, lazy person and I don't enjoy seeing the word "strenuous" or "awkward" in the descriptions of climbs.  Being more of a face/friction boy Turner's Flake is clearly going to suck.  Nevertheless, it's an .8, and I think it's time to give it a go.

1) Any beta?  Any gotchas?

2) I have a friend who was offwidth gear, (a #5 Camalot and a #6 friend).  Are these worth dragging up the climb or should I just save several miles per gallon and not even put them in the car.

-David
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dogboy

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Re: Turner's Flake
« Reply #1 on: June 02, 2003, 09:16:10 AM »

Hey David-
    I've been wanting to do that too...let me know if you need a partner and cheerleader.  I eye that line everytime I go up there!

Jeff
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Tomcat

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Re: Turner's Flake
« Reply #2 on: June 02, 2003, 10:14:54 AM »

Hey David, I just did Turners again recently, it is great, and not all that awkward or strenuous. A #4 friend makes it pretty mellow, and two pieces that size would make it cake. I just move my one #4 up a couple times. Lots of long slings at the start help,or double ropes. Enjoy!
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Admin Al

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Re: Turner's Flake
« Reply #3 on: June 02, 2003, 10:49:56 AM »

Jeff

if you want to borrow my #4, let me know.

Al
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dogboy

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Re: Turner's Flake
« Reply #4 on: June 02, 2003, 01:38:13 PM »

Thanks...'course, it might be a good excuse to buy my own! ;)
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xmikeyx

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Re: Turner's Flake
« Reply #5 on: June 03, 2003, 02:27:33 PM »

Hey all, I did Turner's Flake a while ago and it's a pretty damn nifty climb. My partner lead it and actually used one of his Big Bros (only time I've ever seen one used). But I think with double ropes and a couple of big Camalots it won't be too scarey at all. It's certainly not as awkward and strenuous as some people make it seem. I bought a #4 and #4.5 Camalot for my Red Rocks trip this year and I've actually been thinking about hitting up Turner's Flake againa nd linking it with the roofs to the right of thin air (Monkey Business I think? 5.10a?) That just looks like it would be a sweet line up the Thin Air face.
Has anyone here done the route over those little roofs? Is the pro any good? Are the moves super stout? Not to shift the thread I'm just curious.

Turner's flake is a great pitch, don't get intimidated, just bring some big gear and have a ball!!!!
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dogboy

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Re: Turner's Flake
« Reply #6 on: June 03, 2003, 03:18:39 PM »

I've looked at Lancelot Link, the line through the roofs, a couple of times, and it looks like the gear is pretty good...some small crack stuff and a couple of bolts.  The line looks sweet...I've been told that most people escape left onto Thin Air after pulling the roof....
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asdf

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Re: Turner's Flake
« Reply #7 on: June 03, 2003, 04:42:03 PM »

i am a much better crack climber than face, but both times i did turner's i thought the crux was after the flake ends, on the face trying to get to the anchors on the left.  so you know, you can escape to the right and rap off a tree in the gully if you get scared (like me).
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Alex

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Re: Turner's Flake
« Reply #8 on: June 03, 2003, 05:25:57 PM »

hmm...pardon my ignorance, but where exactly is Turner's Flake?

Sounds like a fun climb, I'd like to try it...
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Admin Al

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Re: Turner's Flake
« Reply #9 on: June 03, 2003, 06:58:02 PM »

it's on the Thin Air face. you start up the right leaning ramp start to Standard Route, then from the top continue up the large flake to the lower of the two sets of anchors at the right end of the Thin Air traverse.

Al
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Alex

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Re: Turner's Flake
« Reply #10 on: June 04, 2003, 12:45:15 PM »

thanks Al, I'll keep it in mind. I take it it's just one pitch, correct?
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Re: Turner's Flake
« Reply #11 on: June 04, 2003, 06:02:25 PM »

yes

Al
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dogboy

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Re: Turner's Flake
« Reply #12 on: June 05, 2003, 10:28:33 AM »

Tomcat--A #4 Friend, or Camalot?  Just wondering, since they're sized quite differently.....
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Jeff

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Re: Turner's Flake
« Reply #13 on: June 05, 2003, 10:53:14 AM »

 Turner's Flake is quite nice I agree; I've led it several times (most recently in 2000) and have never owned a 4 Camelot so have used friends--at most one 3.5 and one 4 although I rarely carry the latter. With that as I remember, you run it out a bit but the laybacks are really secure with pretty good feet on the face and places to stop and rest so it wasn't bad. I also agree that the face above leading to the bolt anchors above windfall is "good value". It certainly reinforces my respect for Turner, pre-SLCDs ,nuts, or even wide bongs--does anyone know if he put wooden wedges in it or did he just go climb it, without pro (or sticky rubber)? Ah, back when men were men and 5.9 was at the limit!  Respect your elders!  Jeff Lea
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JAY

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Re: Turner's Flake
« Reply #14 on: June 05, 2003, 11:27:58 AM »

The roofs to the right of thin air are really fun, and well protected, its sort of cool too when you do it, because people on thin air think you are a hero (even though its not very hard). When I did it I traversed back into thin air, i think its 5.7R if you go straight up but no body ever does making it really dirty.

**Beware** however when I was doing the roofs, on the traverse back into thin air I snapped a hold off, a big hold probably weighed 4 pounds, at that point I was directly above a few people at the belay at the end of the traverse on thin air. Luckily I held onto it when it broke, and after making sure nobody was at the base, chucked it into the woods.

Just be careful because its almost a guarantee there is going to be people below you.

Jay
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