Author Topic: Turner's Flake  (Read 403 times)

Tomcat

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Re: Turner's Flake
« Reply #15 on: June 05, 2003, 05:09:08 PM »
A #4 friend is large enough, and a 3.5 is useful too. Do save the big piece until you can't stand it , or move it up as you go. Most of the route has good footholds. I have linked it to what I think was Lancelot a couple of times, Dogboy is right, the pro is good. The first time I had in mind to go over to Thin Air, but after the second bolt there are some good small cams on the left and you can wiggle in a nut if you can hang on.It is a little runout after but on easy ground. The second time I did it I saved all my small cams for the spot on the left and that worked great. I think Missing Link is the only one you would cut over on.

Offline DWarriner

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Re: Turner's Flake
« Reply #16 on: June 05, 2003, 06:48:58 PM »
So I did this on Wednesday - it was a lot of fun.

I would say Tomcat's post is right on the money.  Thanks TC.

I also now "get it."  I think it got it's reputation because historically it was probably hard to get too much protection.  After all, according to Webster, it was first led with no pro (eek).  As I had lots of big gear, I essentially turned it into a "G" and found it to be engaging, but not all that fearsome.  I didn't think it was awkward at all, and it didn't feel anymore strenuous to me than say, Black Lung.  If you lead it without big gear and run it out, that would be scary for me.  Then again if you're a .9/.10 leader going 20 feet between pieces on a 5.8 might not phase you at all.  The really big gear wasn't as useful as I thought.  The money piece on this climb seemed to be a #4 Camalot.  If I could, I would have taken 3 of them.

I still think the worst move on the climb is that last move to enter the crack which is actually P1 of Standard Route and is allegedly a 5.6.  Yeccch.

Anyway, bum some big gear, and be sure to get on this thing - it's great.

Thanks for all the beta.

-David
There are no stupid questions - only stupid answers.

Offline dogboy

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Re: Turner's Flake
« Reply #17 on: June 09, 2003, 08:16:52 AM »
I went up and did it on Friday, and I echo everything that's been said...moderate, fun, and easy to protect with larger gear.  Great fun!
Everybody wants to go to heaven, but no one wants to die.

Offline om

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Re: Turner's Flake
« Reply #18 on: June 09, 2003, 11:25:57 PM »
i've been on what I thought was the "second pitch" of Windfall - going through the roofs to the right of Thin Air. Is that Lancelot Link? I thought it was a scary lead - i couldn't get any gear in after the bolt and until I've got over the roofs. At critical point I was ~15' left and up from the bolt and was set up for a nasty swing...  what did I miss? was i too far left? I would love to do it again if I can figure out a better pro...
-om

Offline radair

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Re: Turner's Flake
« Reply #19 on: June 12, 2003, 11:45:51 AM »
The set of roofs to the right of Thin Air is the crux pitch of Missing Link (10a). You can move left to Thin Air, but it's a better pitch to run out the slab above (5.6) and belay off gear in a horizontal crack. Lancelot Link moves right past the bolts after pulling the initial roof and is quite a bit harder.

I highly recommend the Missing Link pitch, protection is good and the moves are reminiscent of the Gunks. It's even better combined with Turner's Flake.
« Last Edit: June 12, 2003, 11:46:52 AM by radair »

Offline LizzyBee

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Re: Turner's Flake
« Reply #20 on: June 12, 2003, 03:34:45 PM »
radair,
Missing Link or Pro Choice?
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