Huntington Route Finding Help

[Paul Leroux]

My question's about Huntington Ravine and the routes. I have Ed's book (what a gem) and have checked a few web sites out, but I'm struggling to understand the exact routes on Pinnacle Buttress. Our goal is to do an alpine ascent of The Old Route II (5.5) because that's within our leading capability (we've already trekked Mt Washington via winter Lion Head trail, so we've the stamina and fitness for this). From speaking with George Hurley I understand that if we just stay to the left of the Northeast Ridge of the Pinnacle (5.7) we should find lots of places for protection and should be
able to make this ascent.  From anyones experience will it be easy to identify the start of The Old Route vs Northeast Ridge when we get to the base of the climb? We're thinking of doing a recce of the climb by driving up, hiking down, scoping it out, and then returning another day to do it from bottom to
top. Would anyone happen to have a picture that might help us route find a bit easier? Any other advice you'd have for this route?


Thanks (Paul and Lynn Leroux)

[slobmonster]

ah, the modern lazy alpinist.
i should say that if you find a nice day and bother driving up there, then just schlep your gear down the huntington ravine trail and go for it.  your route-finding crux would be the start of the thing... i'd suggest just following the first pitch of the northeast ridge of the pinnacle, and then just trending left.  i've been up there numerous times and more than once found myself in the general area you're looking for.  think short pitches, mellow fun time.  of course the ne ridge is going to be a heck of a lot cleaner, and the cruxes are short, with plenty of fixed gear to pull on, 'alpine style.'  i don't think your intended mission will be anything less than a fine day out.

[John Christensen]

If you're goning to pay the steep Mt. Washington Auto Road fee I would second bringing the gear and nailing it the first time through.  It is imposible to view these climbs and not want to get them in the here and now.  After the climb down to the base of the buttress you will be certain you don't want to ascend the trail you just used, as there are a number of bottle necks and even two or three slower folks in front of you can really delay the day.  The climbing goes quick and easy with a few pieces of gear needed per pitch (although I did the 5.7 rather than the 5.5 I would think they are alike in this aspect).  I used a light rack that covered fingers to fist width (with no doubling on any size) and still felt like I brought too much.  Do double up on the long slings.  The climbing there is outstanding.

[Doug R]

Paul,
Go to www.chauvinguides.com
There is a great description and good photos of the Pinnacle NE Ridge Rt.
click on the rock climbing link, then look for a rockclimbing tab with a drop down menu; click on the classic routes tab and you will find the link to the Pinnacle.

have fun!

[Tomcat]

In my opinion, if you just follow the route info in the Webster guide it is not hard to find the start at all. I can not tell if you feel 5.5 is your maximum comfortable leading limit but if you are ok on 5.6 you may want to check out the " green wall " pitch. When my partner and I did it a mutual friend told us to look for it and it was the highlight of the route. After a few pitches trend over to a belay on the ridge, if you look onto the North wall, above pinnacle gully there is this gorgeous wall of flourescent green lichen with breathtaking exposure. You follow a pretty cake horizontal crack out to a vertical finger to hand crack that you can not see from the belay. The gear is good, it is a great pitch.