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Author Topic: A needed thread  (Read 127 times)

bumpkin

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A needed thread
« on: June 02, 2003, 03:06:03 PM »

Top ten classics... blablabla and yaaaawwwn. What I want are the all-time worst, most hideous and miserable routes in the NE. Anyone can line up underneath the classics, but it takes a special someone to tick off the garbage lines. Bonus points if your nominated pile of choss gets stars in the guidebook....
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DWarriner

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Re: A needed thread
« Reply #1 on: June 03, 2003, 04:43:30 AM »

Henderson on Cannon - specifically the last 3 pitches (first 2 are fine).

Worst route I've ever done.  Hideously loose - even by Cannon standards.  Dangerous, wandering, mossy.  

Route of All Evil on Woodchuck is worth avoiding

-David



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daveg

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Re: A needed thread
« Reply #2 on: June 03, 2003, 06:20:41 AM »

Three Wogs @ Band M ledge. Multiple stars, lichen covered, minimal pro, and a right trending leap to a lower off bush at the crux add up to a delightful outing.Assuming I was even on route.
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bumpkin

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Re: A needed thread
« Reply #3 on: June 03, 2003, 08:11:57 AM »

The Black Dyke on Cannon..... in summer!


(No I haven't done it, but any one who has deserves some sort of recognition).
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Doug R

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Re: A needed thread
« Reply #4 on: June 03, 2003, 08:29:29 AM »

Wiessner's Dike route on Cannon, first 5 pitches.
Possibly the last 2 pitches as well since the Old Man lost his face.
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DougR

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Re: A needed thread
« Reply #5 on: June 03, 2003, 08:40:13 AM »

I'll add one...Dedication on Humphrey's.  It gets one star in the book...but is dirty, has a non-existent gear belay, is impossible to follow, has sketchy protection, and is generally no fun.  I'd add Standard on Cathedral as well...I assume it gets stars because of it's historical interest...otherwise it is a slimy, dirty chimney with one R section and a bunch of dirt.
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Frak

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Re: A needed thread
« Reply #6 on: June 03, 2003, 10:47:00 AM »

I saw Roger Martin & Did Powel climb the Black Dyke on cannon in the summer. We went over & were climbing on Moby Grape and could hear the  continuous trundling for several hours!
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Alex

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Re: A needed thread
« Reply #7 on: June 03, 2003, 11:29:44 AM »

actaually, I've kind of enjoyed all the routes I've done so far. Maybe that's because I'm still a fairly new climber...


I've never done it, but I would assume that the Big Flush on Cathedral would be pretty horrendous, especially in the summer.
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DH

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Re: A needed thread
« Reply #8 on: June 03, 2003, 12:05:04 PM »

I've only climbed there once in winter but Anything in the Mindbender Amphetheater looks pretty miserable and exciting for summer routes.  Are there any none-ice/mixed routes at Lake Willoughby?  I did see the odd stretch of nice rock there, a few hundred feet right (facing the cliff) of renormalization, but seems very loose for the most part.  Do you think ice tools would be helpfull for summer accents of the Dike or Big Flush? :D
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DWarriner

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Re: A needed thread
« Reply #9 on: July 08, 2003, 07:07:06 AM »

Here's a new one:  P3 of Repentence - rock not ice.

I know most people will not have this problem because they consider P1 and P2 to be crap - but they are actually fun in their own way.  P3 is not only unpleasant but one of the most dangerous things I've been on in a while.

Also, with very big cams, P2 is not R.

Do P1 and P2 and rap.  If you want to simulate P3 without the danger, roll around in some moss, while you have someone continually pelt you with small rocks and handfuls of dirt.  Be sure to get a lot in your mouth and eyes.

-David
« Last Edit: July 08, 2003, 07:07:44 AM by DWarriner »
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Admin Al

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Re: A needed thread
« Reply #10 on: July 08, 2003, 08:39:20 AM »

funny what you are saying about Repentance. I'm pretty certain I saw Baird (?) and someone climbing it on Sunday morning & they ran up it like it was nothing. I've only done it in the winter so I don't have any idea about it in the summer.

al
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DWarriner

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Re: A needed thread
« Reply #11 on: July 08, 2003, 08:50:25 AM »

We got on it on Sunday around 11:00 AM.

Are you sure they weren't running up it for their lives?

-dw
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