There are many good suggestions above. I would like to second Ed on Walk the Plank at the Crows Nest. It is less mentioned, but offers very interesting face climbing IMO. If you want some multi pitch air below your toes do Via Ferrate. Your second should be strong. The last pitch is a bit vegetated at the very top, where it is easy, but pulling the roofs make it very well worth doing.
My personal favorites are:
The Crusher - Long and exciting, hard 11
Black Mamba - I do this just about every time I am at Orange Crush if I get the chance, sometimes repeatedly, and I never get bored of it. Make sure you go all the way to the second anchor.
Lions, Tigers and Bears - travels through some interesting territory with a nice view. Make sure you get on it early as it shares a start with a couple of other very popular routes which can make it a bit of a cluster @#$%
Stone Temple Pilot - Fun, steep, technical, pumpy
Flying Hawaiian - I don't climb this often, but it certainly rates as a must do classic.
I would also put Retrospade, Gunboat Diplomacy, and Peanutman on any mid to hard Rumney 11 tick list
On the easier side of 11, All-the-Waya, with it's face climbing up water worn flakes is very pleasant.
There really are a bunch of good elevens at Rumney IMO. I don't know that I would put Man...Hueco..tights high on my tick list though. The rock quality is kind of iffy and last I looked, the first couple bolts were in need of help. I would do Prime Climb and Buried Treasure (which has been cleaned up and bolted), or one of Shimberg's long face climbs at Yellowknife first.
A few not in the book or seldom thought of: The beautiful clean orange corner of Shiskebob can be lead with some thin gear or TRed (recommended) from the Gunboat Diplomacy anchors.
Not ranked among the classics, at the top left side of Orange Crush is the route Drillery Step. It is a short but fun route if you like powerful steep, dynamic moves.
F--ing the Dog, at the Kennel Wall, has been bolted and since a chock stone fell out and made a jug, is now about 11a. Again, not a classic, but it offers fun, somewhat short but pumpy face climbing.
If you go all the way up to the top of the main gully of the misnamed Summit Cliff (AKA the Highlands), past Northwest passage, you will find an 11b called The Gospel According to Mark that starts just to the left of the Buda Cave entrance. Just to the right of this is an unfinished project called Visions of Jerusalem, which is 5.11 as far as it went. Avoid this area in the spring, as ravens like to nest here. On the way up there, in the vicinity of Dr. Dingle one will find a couple interesting newish tens and a 12b and further up, just past NWP, up the middle of the wall, Esmond's high quality, long 10, Passage of the Righteous.
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Topic: best 5.11 in rumney (Read 302 times)