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Author Topic: best 5.11 in rumney  (Read 925 times)

gags

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best 5.11 in rumney
« on: March 18, 2007, 10:17:34 AM »

I am bored waiting for the season to kick off and I want to put together a hit list tackling some 5.11's this season.  So, what are your opinions on the best 5.11's in Rumney?

gags
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Jack2u

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Re: best 5.11 in rumney
« Reply #1 on: March 18, 2007, 10:45:44 AM »

to start with-
Flyin' Hawaiian 11b
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redpoint73

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Re: best 5.11 in rumney
« Reply #2 on: March 18, 2007, 11:21:07 AM »

Tropicana (11a) at Orange Crush is one of the Rumney classics. 

While not often climbed, my friends did Via Ferrata (11c at Main Cliff) last year and claim its one of the most amazing routes they have ever done.

If you are trying to solidify your 5.11 climbing, you should try Cereal Killers (11c, Main Cliff, Armed & Dangerous area), The an W. the Hueco In His Tights (11b, Triple Corners), Bullwinkle Craters (11b, below New Wave).  And Debbie Does CPR (11a) while you are at New Wave.  While these routes are not quite area classics, they offer steep, fun, juggy climbing, with short cruxes, that are not hard for the grade.
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slink

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Re: best 5.11 in rumney
« Reply #3 on: March 18, 2007, 11:41:47 AM »

Bullwinkle craters is a great 11 try sallys alley or barking spiders also in the new wave area.there is also an 11 in the meadows I think it is white rhino or rhino horn that is ok.Apocolypse now is really good.these climbs are all good with out too much walking there are soo many good 11's at Rumney to do you could never come up with a general consensus on which is the best ;D ;DThere are probably a lot of new routes that are not in the guide book that are equally as good or not better than the older routes.
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bag11s

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Re: best 5.11 in rumney
« Reply #4 on: March 18, 2007, 09:55:19 PM »

The 11a,s are not the best routes at Rumney but there are a lot of them. They tend to have short individual cruxes with variety- Heaven is pretty entertaining. The harder 11,s can be brilliant routes- without question many are regional classics. This is a sample of some of the best.   

11a-    All the Way - A
                Heaven
   
11b-    Lions & Tigers & Bears
   Flying Hawaiian

11c-    High Roller
   Black Mamba
   Apocalypse Later

11d-   Stone Temple Pilot
   Crusher
                (Pulse is cool, too)
   
The New Wave Wall is 5.11 central.
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JakeDatc

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Re: best 5.11 in rumney
« Reply #5 on: March 19, 2007, 12:43:39 AM »

All the way A  is probably the easiest way to tick .11a  i think Debbie Does  is more fun.

Arm and Hammer, bullwinkles, and man with a hueco are all good at .11b

capt fingers is a must if you like the crimps
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ed_esmond

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Re: best 5.11 in rumney
« Reply #6 on: March 19, 2007, 09:10:02 PM »

the best 5.11 at rumney???  there are a bunch of 11's that are good.  my favorites because they're good climbing and longer:

11 a- tropicana (do both pitches), heaven, finland

11b- lions tigers and bears, oh my! (one of the best), flying hawaiian,bonsai pipeline, walk the plank,

11c- apocalypse later, black mamba, retrospade, via ferrata (all three pitches... actually my least favorite route because it kicks my @ss everytime i get on it, but it's really good) high roller

11d- the crusher (maybe the best), peanutman, stone temple pilot

as mentioned, there are also a bunch of shorter 11's that are fun, bullwinkle, debbie, man with a hueco, and little big man.

and i agree with the others, all of the 11's at the new wave are worth doing

ed e
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bag11s

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Re: best 5.11 in rumney
« Reply #7 on: March 20, 2007, 11:50:00 PM »

Right- sorry to go on but I,ve had so much fun on these climbs that I love thinking about them what with the anticipation of spring. So many people have an absolute blast throwing themselves at these routes.  Ed,s right that it is hard to determine a best - there,s so much variety in style and rock architecture. One common thread is cruxy and exacting climbing separated by generally good rests. There,s around (75) 5.11s in the book including variations, plus newer ones. So, although Rumney is famous for quality hard stuff, it,s a pretty good area for 5.11 too.   

Finland is a cool power problem on a perfect flake to a rest, steep finish. Walk the Plank is great - a couple of puzzling cruxes on an engaging steepening slab on a nice crag. Retrospade is damned proud. Vallee Daze is THE ARETE- a standout with a technical crux. White Rhino might be the easiest 11c, or maybe Barking Spiders. 100% Columbian is more in the grade. Cereal Killer is a representative Rumney climb; way steep on generally good holds to a tough boulder problem, and a bit more. Peanut Man,s short crux is classic hard 11 and like its neighboring routes, it also has great climbing over-all. Machine Head & Soft Machine have more cool moves than their modest length would indicate. Niki,s killer finger crack can be top rope rehearsed off the 5.6 anchor to its right. 

If you are breaking into the grade, consider the numerous short a,s and b,s that are basically extended roped boulder problems- there are two at the Meadows, one at Kennel, one to the right of Bonsai, one left of the Main Wall, Debbie, Bullwinkle, Man w/ Hueco, and a lot more scattered around. You can learn a lot about Rumney style climbing from them.

There are many super good 10d and 12a routes not to forget.

Crusher,s the heroic. My vote for best 11 is STP for its variety of physical and mental entertainments.   
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M_Sprague

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Re: best 5.11 in rumney
« Reply #8 on: March 21, 2007, 12:21:53 AM »

There are many good suggestions above. I would like to second Ed on Walk the Plank at the Crows Nest. It is less mentioned, but offers very interesting face climbing IMO. If you want some multi pitch air below your toes do Via Ferrate. Your second should be strong. The last pitch is a bit vegetated at the very top, where it is easy, but pulling the roofs make it  very well worth doing.  

My personal favorites are:

The Crusher - Long and exciting, hard 11

Black Mamba - I do this just about every time I am at Orange Crush if I get the chance, sometimes repeatedly, and I never get bored of it. Make sure you go all the way to the second anchor.

Lions, Tigers and Bears - travels through some interesting territory with a nice view. Make sure you get on it early as it shares a start with a couple of other very popular routes which can make it a bit of a cluster @#$%

Stone Temple Pilot - Fun, steep, technical, pumpy

Flying Hawaiian - I don't climb this often, but it certainly rates as a must do classic.

I would also put Retrospade, Gunboat Diplomacy, and Peanutman on any mid to hard Rumney 11 tick list

On the easier side of 11, All-the-Waya, with it's face climbing up water worn flakes is very pleasant.

There really are a bunch of good elevens at Rumney IMO. I don't know that I would put Man...Hueco..tights high on my tick list though. The rock quality is kind of iffy and last I looked, the first couple bolts were in need of help. I would do Prime Climb and Buried Treasure (which has been cleaned up and bolted), or one of Shimberg's long face climbs at Yellowknife first.

A few not in the book or seldom thought of: The beautiful clean orange corner of Shiskebob can be lead with some thin gear or TRed (recommended) from the Gunboat Diplomacy anchors.

Not ranked among the classics, at the top left side of Orange Crush is the route Drillery Step. It is a short but fun  route if you like powerful steep, dynamic moves.

F--ing the Dog, at the Kennel Wall, has been bolted and since a chock stone fell out and made a jug, is now about 11a. Again, not a classic, but it offers fun, somewhat short but pumpy face climbing.

If you go all the way up to the top of the main gully of the misnamed Summit Cliff (AKA the Highlands), past Northwest passage, you will find an 11b called The Gospel According to Mark that starts just to the left of the Buda Cave entrance. Just to the right of this is an unfinished project called Visions of Jerusalem, which is 5.11 as far as it went. Avoid this area in the spring, as  ravens like to nest here. On the way up there, in the vicinity of Dr. Dingle one will find a couple interesting newish tens and a 12b and further up, just past NWP, up the middle of the wall, Esmond's high quality, long 10, Passage of the Righteous.

« Last Edit: March 23, 2011, 12:08:06 AM by M_Sprague »
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Dave

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Re: best 5.11 in rumney
« Reply #9 on: March 21, 2007, 09:18:06 AM »

Mark, Bill and I did Via ferrata this past fall and the first couple of moves on pitch 2 are now alot harder because a hold has broken off. It is in my oppinion one of the wildest pitches at Rumney! I do agree though your second better be strong. The second falling off could be interesting! Dave
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M_Sprague

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Re: best 5.11 in rumney
« Reply #10 on: March 21, 2007, 12:10:25 PM »

Mark, Bill and I did Via ferrata this past fall and the first couple of moves on pitch 2 are now alot harder because a hold has broken off. It is in my oppinion one of the wildest pitches at Rumney! I do agree though your second better be strong. The second falling off could be interesting! Dave

 Hey glad you like it. How much harder did you think the missing hold made it? Did it effect any of the clips? I should let Ward know for his guide.
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Dave

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Re: best 5.11 in rumney
« Reply #11 on: March 21, 2007, 01:35:40 PM »

We thought the first clip was much harder Mark. You should talk to Bill also. I have only done the route twice, God knows how many times he has done it. Dave
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M_Sprague

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Re: best 5.11 in rumney
« Reply #12 on: March 21, 2007, 03:00:34 PM »

bummer. Thanks. I'll take a look when the cliff opens back up.
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gags

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Re: best 5.11 in rumney
« Reply #13 on: March 21, 2007, 07:13:40 PM »

mark,
where are gunboat diplomacy and all the waya?

gags
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M_Sprague

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Re: best 5.11 in rumney
« Reply #14 on: March 21, 2007, 08:11:33 PM »

Gunboat Diplomacy is at the Main Cliff, starting off the left end of the ironman ledge. All-the-way-a is Waimea's namesake route plus the short extension over the bulge.

I'm heading up to NH in five minutes then down to the Red in the AM. Yee ha! Hopefully I'll have something good to report when I get back.
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