Author Topic: Bird ban - Rumney  (Read 446 times)

Offline OldEric

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Bird ban - Rumney
« on: March 27, 2007, 02:41:31 PM »
Any guess when the Main Cliff etc. at Rumney will be closed?  How about the other areas in NH that are usually impacted?

Offline oldmansmith

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Re: Bird ban - Rumney
« Reply #1 on: April 02, 2007, 09:49:14 AM »
Bird ban is in effect, I saw the signs up this weekend. I didn't look at the signs but i think its the usual closure, everything on the Iron man wall and to the right

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Bird ban - Rumney
« Reply #2 on: April 25, 2007, 08:06:07 AM »
Ia Armed and dangerous on the list?

Offline oldmansmith

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Re: Bird ban - Rumney
« Reply #3 on: April 25, 2007, 10:03:42 AM »
No, armed and dangerous is not.  Although not technically on the list, "Sesame street" and anything to the right should be avoided since they go up pretty high.

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Bird ban - Rumney
« Reply #4 on: April 25, 2007, 07:41:14 PM »
How do you get to armed and dangerous without going on the closed trail?? Thanks. Nick

Offline OldEric

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Re: Bird ban - Rumney
« Reply #5 on: April 26, 2007, 09:42:58 AM »
How do you get to armed and dangerous without going on the closed trail?? Thanks. Nick

Up to Bonsai and back over - is one way.  There is also a somewhat obscure tail that goes directly from the road (between the small lot and 5.8 - closer to the small lot) up to the extreme left end of the Main Cliff.

Offline oldmansmith

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Re: Bird ban - Rumney
« Reply #6 on: April 26, 2007, 10:04:35 AM »
Eric is right, but you may be confused as there is a falcon sign on the trail between the small parking lot and the 5.8 crag.  This trail leads directly to Armed and Dangerous, but the trail and A & D are not within the closed area (read the fine print on the sign).

If you haven't done it yet, there is a cool new 5.9+ on the upper tier to the left.  The first pitch is an often wet 5.8 (the left-most new route, left of the 5.9 often wet crack "Green Mile") to eyebolts on the ledge; the second pitch goes up the orange quartzite above, not too long but good.

good luck

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Bird ban - Rumney
« Reply #7 on: April 26, 2007, 10:16:46 AM »
Thanks, How hard is the new climb just right of Armed and D?

Offline oldmansmith

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Re: Bird ban - Rumney
« Reply #8 on: April 26, 2007, 11:04:41 AM »
It's called "clusterphobia," 11a, maybe easier if you are tall.
Also the route that share the same start is "metamorphasis" retro-bolted 5.8 that is really good.


Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Bird ban - Rumney
« Reply #9 on: April 26, 2007, 11:14:08 AM »
The 5.8 goes out right???

Offline oldmansmith

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Re: Bird ban - Rumney
« Reply #10 on: April 26, 2007, 11:16:48 AM »
yes, lower of at the first anchor or keep going (dirty) to the second (two ropes to rappell from there)

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Bird ban - Rumney
« Reply #11 on: May 01, 2007, 10:29:47 PM »
OMG  Ward!! that 5.8 up and right Metamorphasis is the best 5.8 at Rumny!! what a sweet climb and a perfect warm up for A&D!! can't wait for the new book. Thanks for all the hard work!

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Bird ban - Rumney
« Reply #12 on: May 02, 2007, 11:08:08 AM »
I look in my old book and Metamorphasis is a 9 R with a doodybag symbol. With the retrobolt it is much easier but still sustained 5.8 climbing. Really Fine climb. kudos to Ted Hammond for sending it on crap gear but i have to say i like it better bolted ;D

Offline M_Sprague

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Re: Bird ban - Rumney
« Reply #13 on: May 02, 2007, 12:18:16 PM »
The original Metamorphosis actually started out over by Juicy fingers and then adventured  across the cliff. When I asked Ted if I could retro the line, he didn't tell me that the topo in the guide was wrong until afterwards. So, the bolted line is different, but  giving it a new name would be kind of silly since 90% of it was a combination of previous routes and the name fit perfectly. The second half of the climb is worth doing at least once IMO even though I didn't get to give it a full cleaning. There is an interesting notch to go through (I may move one bolt, but the protection is fine).

There are a few newish routes to the right also that are of a similar grade range (7-8). The first pitch of The Big Easy starts out just to the right of Sesame Street at the short juggy overhang that leads to the slabby corner and upper face, finishing at the belay on the pine tree ledge. Toxic Gumbo starts out at the overhanging corner a bit further to the right and finishes at anchors at the lip of the afor mentioned ledge. They are technically open, but I would avoid these two routes, particularly the 5.10 pitch that leads off the ledge (Bourbon Street) while the peregrines are nesting unless you are extremely quiet.

If anybody does Mr. Meaner, the 5.9, I may have a few tools stashed in a crack on the ledge, as well as a fixed rope attached to a bolt on a project to the right. Please leave everything as you find it. They are not abandoned!

Thanks
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

-Ralph Waldo Emerson

Offline Dave

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Re: Bird ban - Rumney
« Reply #14 on: May 02, 2007, 12:27:47 PM »
"Clusterphobia" is a 1 move wonder that is definately esier if you are tall. Dave