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Best Book To Find Beginners Routes at the Gunks


I know there are several books out there on climbing in the Gunks. I am looking for one that will help me "FIND" ??? the routes (have never climbed in the Gunks)

the williams guides are good.

they are usually pretty accurate with regards to how far to walk and route descriptions

go now when the leaves are down, makes it easier to see the routes. Also, ask other people that are there what they are on to see where you are

route finding is part of the trad fun, it might take a while at the beginning but after seeing the lay of the land you pick it up pretty fast

If you are trying to find a number of climbs at a certain level, check out the climbing section of as they have a database that you can sort by grade. I doubt it has every climb, and it doesn't have descriptions so you'll probably still want the Williams book, but it is another resource.

The New Gray Dick is outstanding. You can get it at Rock & Snow in New Paltz. Unfortunately it only covers the Trapps thus you are limited to mere 495 climbs. Not familar with the older Williams guides.

Theoretically Dick's new guide to the Near Trapps should be out by this fall. It should be well worth waiting for. Until then don't waste the money on Swain (an outstanding, groundbreaking guide at the time of publication) which can every now and then get you into trouble or "Swained" or the select guides.

Ask at R&S for their suggestions regarding climbs in your range at the Nears and write the descriptions down. Starting from the top with Rich, the guys there are fantastic.  Alternatively just walk along the trail at the Nears and ask folks for suggestions. It is a friendly crowd and you will get put on the right stuff. Worse comes to worse pick a likely line and rope up.

NY Climber:
I persoanlly like the 2 books:
The Gunks (Shawangunks Climbing Guide; New Paltz) [Paperback]
Zach Orenczak (Author), Rachael Lynn (Author)


Gunks Guide (Regional Rock Climbing Series) [Paperback]
Todd Swain (Author)

Between these 2 books I have been opretty covered for all the route there. I don't think the Near Trapps has too much TR-ing because after a short left side to the Trapps the height starts to increase higher than 80 ft. I might be wrong on this - but that's been my experience thus far...


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