Author Topic: Slabs?  (Read 1228 times)

bluesnpolitics

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Slabs?
« on: May 08, 2007, 02:29:44 PM »
I'm planning to go up to whitehorse with a buddy sometime soon when we get time off. Considering the slight runouts ;) I'd like to be more comfortable leading slabs. Haven't climbed any slabs in years. Anyone know good places to sure up my confidence near boston? The closest I know is Rainbow Slabs on the Kanc... might as well just go to Whitehorse and do the bottom pitches. If I can't find anything around here, I will just do that, maybe take a couple of days off work and do a warm up day.

On a side note: I was planning on a rappel descent, but would prefer not to be rabbit punched. With a preliminary look, it seems that I could escape Stadtmuller-Griffen down Sea Of Holes (I have doubles) or if we continue to the top or take Standard, could go down standard. I assume Beginners would be bad due to loose rock? I am pretty confident that my partner and I can get up and down safely, I just don't want to get beat up in a bar later that night ;D

As always, glad to hear anyone's opinions.

Offline maznev

  • NEClimbs Junior Member
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  • Posts: 65
Re: Slabs?
« Reply #1 on: May 08, 2007, 03:36:23 PM »
I guess Red Rock in Glouchester? There're also a number of slab routes @ Quincy Quarries.   
Regarding White Horse descent options: for routes that go to the top such as Standard or Sliding Board, it's much more pleasant (and safe) to walk down than to rappel.  I don't think there's an established rappel route from the top, you'd have to improvise.  Stadtmuller-Griffin and Wedge can also be climbed to the top, or you can rappel from the tree ledge down Sea of Holes. 
« Last Edit: May 08, 2007, 04:27:36 PM by maznev »

DLottmann

  • Guest
Re: Slabs?
« Reply #2 on: May 08, 2007, 04:50:13 PM »
Beginner's Route has virtually no loose rock on the first 6 pitches.  Perhaps you are thinking of Beginner's Easy?  The first 4 pitches are 5.2, 5.4, 5.1, 5.2.  With bolted rap stations and relatively good gear on those pitches you can really get an idea of how ready you are, and easily rap down (two ropes) from the top of any pitch up to the 5th (5.5) pitch.  Route finding after the 5th pitch can get tricky, and I've seen many wander and stall.  Consult Whitehorse Ledge Super-Topo by TMC Books:

http://www.ems.com/catalog/product_detail_square.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524442585236&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=282574489160832&bmUID=1178656816583

(In stock at North Conway EMS)

Rainbow is generally more runout, on older bolts, with harder route finding, and along way from help should you need it.  It does have a great water crossing though, which is probably too high right now... so long approach.

Stand up straight, trust your shoes, breathe, and go for it... you "probably" won't fall.

Weekdays usually are not that busy...

bluesnpolitics

  • Guest
Re: Slabs?
« Reply #3 on: May 08, 2007, 09:23:37 PM »
I guess I was thinking of a different route... maybe Beginner's Easy. I lent my book to my partner so he can read up and don't remember the specifics. Thanks for the warning on Rainbow Slabs. I may check out Red Rock. I can only think of one friction climb at the Quarries though. There are a bunch of slabs I guess, but most of them have obvious features. I am starting up at EMS in Boston again (after a short hiatus) and have glanced at that topo. I'm not too worried, but just to be extra safe will proabably run up the lower pitches the day before to make my mom happy ;). Thanks

climber377

  • Guest
Re: Slabs?
« Reply #4 on: August 05, 2007, 08:54:08 PM »
Check out Lost Ledges, There are several slab climbs at extremely easy grades. 

DLottmann

  • Guest
Re: Slabs?
« Reply #5 on: August 06, 2007, 11:16:10 AM »
I am starting up at EMS in Boston again (after a short hiatus)

2 Free rock climbing lessons from the EMS Climbing School per year as an EMS Employee. Grab a co-worker and call the school, come up for 2 days of slab climbing and multi-pitch leading skills.

bluesnpolitics

  • Guest
Re: Slabs?
« Reply #6 on: August 16, 2007, 04:11:37 PM »
The lessons are awesome, and I have learned a lot from the guides at the school in the past, but I prefer the old fashioned way. I'll probably be up when they do an avy course though.

DLottmann

  • Guest
Re: Slabs?
« Reply #7 on: August 16, 2007, 06:44:06 PM »
They fill up FAST:

http://www.emsclimb.com/mountaineering_avalanche.htm

Book now, you can use up your two winter lessons towards the cost of the course.