In November last year I mooched with a pair of climbers for the day who had left their draws on the route Crusher the previous Saturday, since they were projecting it. We climbed at New Wave for while, and later went over to look at Crusher, which, unfortunately, was wet. The fellow who had left his draws on it did not feel up to retrieving them & seemed a bit freaked, and so his buddy hiked around to the top. He figured out how to lower down the sketchy pine needly bit to the anchor and then, he rapped the route and retrieved his friend,s draws. This caused me to wonder a bit more about the notion of leaving draws on routes.
I have climbed at Rumney for a while, since 1988, and especially in the years 2000 through 2005. Recently- not so much. I have encountered fixed draws rarely on routes I have attempted in all that time. In my experience, (granted not in most recent past) this problem is a rare phenomenon on routes through 12b/c- solid 5.12. Climbers who commonly climb harder than that do exploit fixed draws more often, and pink pointing (vs. red pointing) becomes more accepted (or at least more common) as one climbs harder grades. Just stand under Waimea, look up, and you will see what I mean.
I personally have never left draws on routes I was working on, because I wasn,t sure I was going to get back to it the next day (or weekend) and never knew whether the weather would cooperate or whatever, so it seemed natural to take all my expensive stuff home. I guess I assumed my gear might get stolen. I also have a weird (if not neurotic) fondness for my own 16 quick draws that are set up exactly the way I like, and hate it when I loose one (as I have, since I have a memory not to be envied).
I have red pointed a lot of routes. I have also pink pointed alot of routes, and have felt satisfied. Some routes involved a go that I considered a warm up, maybe with one or more rests, (sometimes learning bolt to bolt). Some of them (maybe even after efforts on previous days) I even hiked to the top, rapped down, hung the draws, lowered to the ground, rested a good long time, and attempted. If I succeeded, I felt good about doing the route in that style, and moved on. Some other times I pink pointed routes lead by others that day, on their gear- (a higher style than seconding free, perhaps) and that also seemed fair game. A very few routes had preplaced draws. Of course, there are many great routes at Rumney- and in New Hampshire; so far, I have not run out of things that look well wild for the future.
Apparently, â€˜projecting draws, have become a problem since they are starting to be stolen. I think I,ve learned something after reading all your comments, and its been fun, anyway.