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Author Topic: general sport crag etiquette  (Read 897 times)

Admin Al

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general sport crag etiquette
« on: May 24, 2007, 10:34:46 AM »

maybe there could be some comments on general etiquette for sport crags, and maybe Rumney in particular. I would be happy to make the thread sticky so it stays on top.

--al
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Al Hospers
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DLottmann

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Re: general sport crag etiquette
« Reply #1 on: May 24, 2007, 07:13:42 PM »

Wouldn't this go under the sport climbing forum?  I would also motion to only sticky topics once they have been filled with lots of good information, not before (which will keep them at the top for awhile anyways).
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Admin Al

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Re: general sport crag etiquette
« Reply #2 on: May 24, 2007, 09:32:30 PM »

very true on both counts DMan
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Al Hospers
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JakeDatc

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Re: general sport crag etiquette
« Reply #3 on: May 25, 2007, 02:14:37 AM »

TOP ROPE THROUGH YOUR OWN EFFING DRAWS....  /yells at all noobs at parking lot and meadows

1 Biner/Draw = Bail.. if you can get that far... have at it

Line of draws = Project.. Don't steal them
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crazyt

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Re: general sport crag etiquette
« Reply #4 on: May 25, 2007, 05:30:17 PM »

 ;D If I find gear left behind on a trad route or draws left behind on a sport route I call it booty! If I leave gear behind on a route, I consider it gone. :'(
« Last Edit: May 25, 2007, 08:07:32 PM by crazyt »
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bsf

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Re: general sport crag etiquette
« Reply #5 on: May 25, 2007, 05:44:36 PM »

First rule of etiquette should be:

relax, its only climbing
we're suppossed to be having fun ;D
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crazyt

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Re: general sport crag etiquette
« Reply #6 on: May 25, 2007, 08:24:00 PM »

 ;D  Booty is Fun.
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bsf

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Re: general sport crag etiquette
« Reply #7 on: May 25, 2007, 10:45:52 PM »

when I first started climbing i took a AAI mountaineering course in the cascades. our guide was taking us up the becky route on liberty bell, guess it is a 5.5 or something. i had no idea at that time what grades or equipment meant at all, i was climbing in my tennis shoes

all of sudden he yells out, "whoa, i found a friend", i thought, what the hell, a friend, i didn.t see anybody else on the climb, his friend is there?, maybe he is going crazy and we are going to  die. up he goes, "whoa i found another friend"

after finally getting up and down and we are sitting around the campsite i found out what he meant, someone must have had to bale, FAST

BOTTY DAY FOR HIM ;D

BTW, hope someone is enjoying my nice new BD 19cm screw i dropped on willeys this  winter and lost in the snow :-[
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DLottmann

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Re: general sport crag etiquette
« Reply #8 on: May 26, 2007, 09:09:46 AM »

BTW, hope someone is enjoying my nice new BD 19cm screw i dropped on willeys this  winter and lost in the snow :-[

It might still be there... go for a walk!
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JakeDatc

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Re: general sport crag etiquette
« Reply #9 on: May 26, 2007, 07:41:11 PM »

;D If I find gear left behind on a trad route or draws left behind on a sport route I call it booty! If I leave gear behind on a route, I consider it gone. :'(

go any FA's i can grid bolt? 
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vanessa

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Re: general sport crag etiquette
« Reply #10 on: May 26, 2007, 09:40:55 PM »

in rumney there are signs posted all over the parking lot that say walk on the left side of the road in single file! i saw a group of at least 15 people walking on the wrong side about 10 feet into the road. nobody wants to weave their car in and out of you while wondering if there is a car coming around the corner about to hit them.
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Griffin

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Re: general sport crag etiquette
« Reply #11 on: May 26, 2007, 09:54:25 PM »

I don't understand why grabbing gear as booty pertains to sport, trad, or whatever.  It's all like something else of value.... you see it sitting there with no one else looking and decide whether to take it or not, just like a wallet sitting on a bench or something.  There are plenty of people out there who will find a couple of cams, fixed rope, etc. hanging off of a trad route, and will post it as found and leave it, and others that will be psyched to have a new addition to their rack.  I don't see why it's ok to grab things off of a trad route that might have been someone's project that they failed on, when it's not ok to grab draws off of a sport route someone failed on.  Obviously if there's a line of draws it's most likely a project, (or someone who seriously ran out of steam) but people are going to take things that don't belong to them regardless.  Either way, if you didn't buy it, it isn't yours... not that I'm that upright or anything, it's just the truth.
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DLottmann

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Re: general sport crag etiquette
« Reply #12 on: May 26, 2007, 10:34:02 PM »

Grif, the opposite view if this is what every is left behind is trash, and should therefore be removed.  LNT right?  Leave No Trace?  Every guidebook mentions it.  Without hatching all the bullshit about chalk and lichen and shit we need to use a little common sense (hard for climbers sometimes).  There is gear that someone is intending to return for, i.e. quickdraws on a sport route, and gear that was left behind because it was stuck or they had to bail.  I cleaned a rope, cordellette, and a bunch of biner's off Recompense last week, and posted it, and no one has come forward.  This gear was abandoned, and I'm picturing these climbers thinking, awww.. screw it, it was an old rope anyways.  It was trash for someone else to pick up.

Quickdraws at Rumney... common guys... it's RUMNEY.  It's sport climbing... don't lower yourselves to the debates us TRAD climber have... hehe

I think posting something as found entails taking it off the route...
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crazyt

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Re: general sport crag etiquette
« Reply #13 on: May 27, 2007, 08:12:45 AM »

 ???  Just add a chain and steel biner to every bolt and be done with it.
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DLottmann

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Re: general sport crag etiquette
« Reply #14 on: May 27, 2007, 09:48:10 PM »

???  Just add a chain and steel biner to every bolt and be done with it.

Since you mentioned this twice I am thinking you are not kidding.  Consider for a sec many people are thinking of ways to lessen impact at climbing areas both for other climbers who enjoy adventure, and for the land managers/owners who allow us to abide our sport there.  I have stopped using chalk when my hands are not sweating (that was a hard adjustment).  Many climbers paint their bolts to match the color of the rock to minimize visual impact.  I use natural colored slings when replacing rap stations around trees.  Adding a chain link and steel biner to every bolt on a climb outside would be a terrible eyesore, and I am sure the more time you spend on some beautiful NH granite that will become apparent.
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