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Author Topic: general sport crag etiquette  (Read 825 times)

crazyt

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Re: general sport crag etiquette
« Reply #15 on: May 28, 2007, 07:27:44 AM »

Since you mentioned this twice I am thinking you are not kidding.  Consider for a sec many people are thinking of ways to lessen impact at climbing areas both for other climbers who enjoy adventure, and for the land managers/owners who allow us to abide our sport there.  I have stopped using chalk when my hands are not sweating (that was a hard adjustment).  Many climbers paint their bolts to match the color of the rock to minimize visual impact.  I use natural colored slings when replacing rap stations around trees.  Adding a chain link and steel biner to every bolt on a climb outside would be a terrible eyesore, and I am sure the more time you spend on some beautiful NH granite that will become apparent.
  Eyesore?  Waimea used to be a beautiful sight. Now, with the talus rearranged for comfort and convenience, chalk on every hold, draws hanging everywhere and a ladder secured to the clif, quick clip anchors for your climbing convenience, I wonder what you mean by eyesore.  We place bolts by good natural gear so folks don't need a rack, chop down trees because.....?, then we whine about seeing a butt, tape or other miniscule piece of trash and your worried about the visual impact??
 Fixed metal draws on every bolt would look soooo cool. Like tinsil on a tree it would be like Christmas every day!
 Rumney is not represenitive of beautiful NH granite.
 
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JakeDatc

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Re: general sport crag etiquette
« Reply #16 on: May 28, 2007, 04:37:55 PM »

Yea.. why make rumney an excellent example of how a sport crag should be.  We should just have everyone bolting and chopping as they please like certain "ethical trad areas" riiiight..

i say he's trolling :)
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DLottmann

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Re: general sport crag etiquette
« Reply #17 on: May 28, 2007, 05:55:28 PM »

Rumney is not represenitive of beautiful NH granite.

You are right, it is representiive of beautiful NH schist.  Sorry.  I like how the eye bolts blend in better than the real shiny stainless steel, but that's just me.

Shall we spray paint the names and grades of the route at the base so we don't need a guidebook?  Why should we need quickdraws to climb at Rumney?
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Griffin

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Re: general sport crag etiquette
« Reply #18 on: May 28, 2007, 06:07:18 PM »

Shall we spray paint the names and grades of the route at the base so we don't need a guidebook?
Well, maybe a plaque complete with route name, grade, how to do the crux, and whether or not it's worth calling the "proj" and hanging quickdraws off of it.  Plus, spraypaint would make it too much like home for those folks travelling up from Beantown. ;D ;D ;D
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M_Sprague

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Re: general sport crag etiquette
« Reply #19 on: May 29, 2007, 03:02:04 AM »

HaHa. Before any body anybody makes a fool of themselves, they should know that CrazyT is one of the original developers of Rumney. Peer Pressure anyone? He is also senile and may be off his medication.
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JakeDatc

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Re: general sport crag etiquette
« Reply #20 on: May 29, 2007, 11:21:14 AM »

"and may be off his medication"

it worked for one good route..
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crazyt

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Re: general sport crag etiquette
« Reply #21 on: May 29, 2007, 07:37:41 PM »

 :o  Rumney is a climbing paradise. I've been a little put off lately by what I see as excessive ( the ladder on Waimea, to many bolts on easy,wet, bug filled areas, all those draws,More than a few mature trees cut down, etc) A sign of old age? senility? or just concern for a place that's special?
What do climbers envision as the future? just like trad resisted sport, we will all resist the next generations definition of climbing. Fixed metal draws on every bolt? Is it really that far fetched? Where do we go from here? We can't stagnate the next generation, they will choose a path of their own regardless of what we say.  The only thing you can really count on is that nothing stays the same! Now, about that medication.............

                                                                                                        Tom Bowker
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brianwinslow

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Re: general sport crag etiquette
« Reply #22 on: May 29, 2007, 09:21:42 PM »

So, to change the subject a little bit, I was somewhat annoyed by a group at the orange crush wall this weekend.  When we showed up there was only one other party down the hill from where we were climbing, but as soon as we started checking out a new route (for us) the place got busy.  No problem.  Then, a group marched right up to our climb and asked how long we'd be.  Ok, so we can share a route, no problem.  Then they set up below right next to us and just watched us climb, offered beta and discussed their strategy, until we pulled the rope and let them go at it.  We were pretty put off by them, and decided to hit another crag.  There's so much fun climbing at Rumney and it's pretty easy to find an available route that we didn't feel like we needed to get in their way.  I just wish they had felt the same way.   I don't mind sharing routes at all and synergy can be a great thing climbing, but I think the ethics debate should turn more towards clifside manners, or lack there of.
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slink

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Re: general sport crag etiquette
« Reply #23 on: May 30, 2007, 11:20:54 AM »

I agree with M Sprague about crazy t .And I would not question his knowledge about NH Granite or sport routes.I have met him and climbed some of his granite climbs that are off the beaten path and they are great,also hard.Thanks crazy t for all of the work you have done in the past and publish a guide book to your out of the way crags(only joking on that part).
 Jim
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DWarriner

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Re: general sport crag etiquette
« Reply #24 on: May 30, 2007, 03:21:52 PM »

;D If I find gear left behind on a trad route or draws left behind on a sport route I call it booty! If I leave gear behind on a route, I consider it gone. :'(

Well said. 

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DWarriner

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Re: general sport crag etiquette
« Reply #25 on: May 30, 2007, 03:46:26 PM »

Chalk doesn't shout, bolts don't pee, slings don't drop garbage, pins don't remove trees.  The ironic truth is the ugliest thing on a climb is all the climbers.

You could wipe off all the chalk at Rumney, paint all the bolts at Cathedral "granite color" and it for all intents and purposes, they would look the same.

The best way to keep all these places pristine is to not go there.  I'm not prepared to do that.

-David
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manboobs

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Re: general sport crag etiquette
« Reply #26 on: May 30, 2007, 03:59:50 PM »

Quote
  The ironic truth is the ugliest thing on a climb is all the climbers

Unless they are hot chick climbers

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crazyt

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Re: general sport crag etiquette
« Reply #27 on: May 30, 2007, 07:31:30 PM »

Unless they are hot chick climbers


   :o  Nothing sexier than a chick in a harness.   :o
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JakeDatc

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Re: general sport crag etiquette
« Reply #28 on: May 31, 2007, 02:45:10 AM »

Don't show up on Memorial day weekend expecting the whole place to yourself.  Other people have projects too and some are willing to wait around for them. They could be taking a rest before getting on there so they can give it a strong burn.   If you didn't ask them to not talk about beta when they started to then that is your own damn fault.  People can talk about whatever the fuck they want and can't read your mind.   If they were getting in the way of you belaying or climbing somehow then you should ask them to move over some.  Being all passive aggressive will get you no where.  Now instead of knowing they might have been doing something slightly offensive to some people they have no clue and might repeat it next week.

If you want rumney to yourself show up on a wednesday... problems solved.  There are plenty of ways to avoid crowds at rumney, even on the weekend..

I agree with the draws bit at waimea..  I'd love to see it "start from scratch' and see how many of the project draws go back up on things.  Some things get worked alot.. some may not see enough traffic to warrant them up for so long

Sport ethic #1...  This is NOT trad climbing.  Check your rack at the door. (unless you're using it to bolt another line and then thank you much mark, Tom, DQ, Ward, Jim, etc etc)

So, to change the subject a little bit, I was somewhat annoyed by a group at the orange crush wall this weekend.  When we showed up there was only one other party down the hill from where we were climbing, but as soon as we started checking out a new route (for us) the place got busy.  No problem.  Then, a group marched right up to our climb and asked how long we'd be.  Ok, so we can share a route, no problem.  Then they set up below right next to us and just watched us climb, offered beta and discussed their strategy, until we pulled the rope and let them go at it.  We were pretty put off by them, and decided to hit another crag.  There's so much fun climbing at Rumney and it's pretty easy to find an available route that we didn't feel like we needed to get in their way.  I just wish they had felt the same way.   I don't mind sharing routes at all and synergy can be a great thing climbing, but I think the ethics debate should turn more towards clifside manners, or lack there of.
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Dave

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Re: general sport crag etiquette
« Reply #29 on: May 31, 2007, 08:06:33 AM »

;D If I find gear left behind on a trad route or draws left behind on a sport route I call it booty! If I leave gear behind on a route, I consider it gone. :'(

Amen
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